Festool drills / drivers, Why?

[slavi.yordanov]

Centrotec is nice, don’t get me wrong, but the price to get all the necessary bits is ridiculous. It’s very cleverly designed and I see the benefit of having a few of these adapters loaded with different bits. Still slower than having to drills ready to go through.

I have used my Centrotec head less than ten times, since regular drills suck for driving screws. I don’t have any Centrotec drilling bits, except the stubby ones, but they lock nicely in to my Bosch Flexiclick. And they have the same amount of wobble as when mounted on my C18.

Interestingly when looking at older pictures all Centrotec bits had the little notches in the shaft, where the Bosch locks them. Most of the new bits do not have these notches..

I love my C18 for what I use it for. It has the keyless chuck and 90 degree adapter attached to it 95% of the time. I mainly use 7/8 hex shank Hole Saw bits for drilling through 2x material. The thing fits perfectly in subfloor space. Centrotec drill bits will not work in my application, so I’m not really excited about it. One thing that bothers me is that when a drill bit is locked in the keyless chuck, it can’t me removed from the drill like the Centrotec adapter.

 

[mino]

One thing that bothers me is that when a drill bit is locked in the keyless chuck, it can’t me removed from the drill like the Centrotec adapter.

It absolutely can I do it all the time.

You may want o check if your chuck does not experience some issue preventing this.

 

[Coen]

One thing that bothers me is that when a drill bit is locked in the keyless chuck, it can’t me removed from the drill like the Centrotec adapter.

It absolutely can I do it all the time.

You may want o check if your chuck does not experience some issue preventing this.

He means the drillbit itself can't be removed from the chuck if you already removed the chuck from the machine.

 

[grobkuschelig]

He means the drillbit itself can't be removed from the chuck if you already removed the chuck from the machine.

Until a couple of years ago, Festool was selling a Wiha-made screwdriver handle with a Centrotec part as the „Blade“.

These were also part of the installer kits and would allow you to use all your Centrotec equipment manually as well.

I have one in every drill Systainer and use these to release drills from the chuck or manual tasks. But they might be very hard to get nowadays...

As with everything regarding tools, you need to find what you like for yourself.
I for one definitely appreciate the Centrotec system and the Festool drills.

 

[Cheese]

I have one in every drill Systainer and use these to release drills from the chuck or manual tasks. But they might be very hard to get nowadays...

Great idea...I now have a new use for mine.  [smile]

 

[slavi.yordanov]

One thing that bothers me is that when a drill bit is locked in the keyless chuck, it can’t me removed from the drill like the Centrotec adapter.

It absolutely can I do it all the time.

You may want o check if your chuck does not experience some issue preventing this.

He means the drillbit itself can't be removed from the chuck if you already removed the chuck from the machine.

I meant that the chuck can’t be removed from the drill, if a bit is locked inside.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[AlexThePalex]

I meant that the chuck can’t be removed from the drill, if a bit is locked inside.

But you can, I do it all the time. Why doesn't yours? Just lift the locking collar up and off it should go. See if there's some metal shavings inside, or other dirt, and spray it with WD40. 

 

[mino]

One thing that bothers me is that when a drill bit is locked in the keyless chuck, it can’t me removed from the drill like the Centrotec adapter.

It absolutely can I do it all the time.

You may want o check if your chuck does not experience some issue preventing this.

He means the drillbit itself can't be removed from the chuck if you already removed the chuck from the machine.

Ok, not what was written.

But in that case that is a natural property of every quick-change chuck system I have ever seen. Including those on CNCs etc. With no machine (or some contraption) connected, there is nothing to stop the shaft from moving in a chuck.

Normally it is not an issue. The quick-chuck system is about having as-many-as-needed-for-project chucks so that you do not change tools in chucks but whole chucks on tool/between tools.

 

[Coen]

One thing that bothers me is that when a drill bit is locked in the keyless chuck, it can’t me removed from the drill like the Centrotec adapter.

It absolutely can I do it all the time.

You may want o check if your chuck does not experience some issue preventing this.

He means the drillbit itself can't be removed from the chuck if you already removed the chuck from the machine.

I meant that the chuck can’t be removed from the drill, if a bit is locked inside.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Huh what. I do that all the time. Well, did. I now mainly use my Bosch drills.

 

[Cheese]

I meant that the chuck can’t be removed from the drill, if a bit is locked inside.

I do that all the time, if I have a lot of repetitive holes to drill with 2 different sized drills, I chuck the smaller bit in the CXS chuck and then chuck the larger bit in the C 15 chuck and swap chucks around on the CXS as needed. Swapping chucks is faster than swapping drill bits.

 

[slavi.yordanov]

I meant that the chuck can’t be removed from the drill, if a bit is locked inside.

But you can, I do it all the time. Why doesn't yours? Just lift the locking collar up and off it should go. See if there's some metal shavings inside, or other dirt, and spray it with WD40.

I actually have tried again after reading your post. At first it wouldn’t budge, but after some persuasion it came out. I put some lube  on the chuck and it seems to be better now.

I have accepted it as a safety feature before, even though it would make sense to have two or three chucks ready to swap between.

 

[AlexThePalex]

I meant that the chuck can’t be removed from the drill, if a bit is locked inside.

I do that all the time, if I have a lot of repetitive holes to drill with 2 different sized drills, I chuck the smaller bit in the CXS chuck and then chuck the larger bit in the C 15 chuck and swap chucks around on the CXS as needed. Swapping chucks is faster than swapping drill bits.

I do that sometimes too, but you know what's even faster? Not swapping chucks but swapping drills.  [smile]

I often have my 3 drills at hand, C12, T15 & Ti15 fitted with a different bit when I'm working.

With that line-up you have you should never have to swap a bit again.

 

[johnyhuh]

CXS is the best. It's the best tool purchase I've made. The ergonomics, quality, long lasting, and accessories make it amazing. The clutch system is a dream for when you need to do light work (other drills just plain suck at that).

It's way stronger than you think it is... I've driven plenty of long screws into studs and such. Short of decking there isn't really any reason why it couldn't be anyone's number one drill.

I've debated grabbing Makita's smaller brushless black combo several times, or even a Festool combo but... I just haven't required having anything else yet. Going towards 6 years now (I don't even like saying that, but it's true).

I agree. CXS is best for fine-control. I have other drills from other brands for other purposes. For cabinetry/woodworking, CXS is such a find drill to use.

 

[Bob D.]

I do that sometimes too, but you know what's even faster? Not swapping chucks but swapping drills.  [smile]

I often have my 3 drills at hand, C12, T15 & Ti15 fitted with a different bit when I'm working.

With that line-up you have you should never have to swap a bit again.

I also use multiple drills. Right now I have one with a bit for a pilot hole just short of the screw length, one with a #2 square drive bit, and the third with the bit from my Kreg jig which I use to sink the screw head 1/2" below the surface and make the counterbore for a 3/8" plug. The Kreg bit cuts a flat bottom counterbore and is easily set to the desired depth. Then I can cover those holes with 3/8" diameter plugs I make from scraps of wood for a near perfect match or go with a contrasting wood.

I have tapered screw bits with counterbore but they are limited in depth.