Festool Drywall Gun Question DWC 18-4500 or DWC 18-2500

[msc]

Hi

I am planing to use my £50 voucher towards a drywall gun set. There are 2 versions available ie 2500rpm or 4500rpm. But i cant find any information as to the main use for each one. For example it the higher rpm model more suited to metal studs or is it just the case for speed. Thanks

 

[joiner1970]

I might be wrong but does the lower speed version put in longer screws ? Total wild guess.

 

[wrightwoodwork]

I have hilti sd4000 which spin at 4000 revs a minute never had a problem with metal or wood the metal screw guns tend to be lower speed but only need if heavy gauge metal I would go for the 4500. What do you use the now?

 

[jmbfestool]

I bought the protool version couple years ago!   So assuming festool didn't change anything when they rebranded it to festool then this is what I know about the two.

I first went for the 14.4v version with the higher rpm 4500    I used  one strip of screws and called the dealer and asked if I could swap it for the 18v 2500rpm straight away after I found out they did two models which I didn't know when I bought the higher rpm model.

Reason I swapped it because of torque. The higher rpm has far far less torque than the other lower rpm
Model.  

For screwing plasterboard onto softwood the higher rpm is perfectly fine but into oak it struggled and for screwing wood to wood it didn't sink the screws in.

The Lower rpm version with higher torque sinks the screws right in no problem!  

Down side is the  lower rpm is its slower so having the gun above your head  waiting for it to screw the screw in.  The higher rpm like my corded Fein flies the screws in so your reducing the time your pushing per screw giving you less arm ache

 

[jmbfestool]

I have hilti sd4000 which spin at 4000 revs a minute never had a problem with metal or wood the metal screw guns tend to be lower speed but only need if heavy gauge metal I would go for the 4500. What do you use the now?

No you need higher speed for metal studs

Hence why protool/festool produce two models.  One high speed low torque for metal and low speed and high torque for wood.

 

[jonny round boy]

I would have thought it depended on whether you're mainly driving single or twin-thread drywall screws?

Single thread screws are for metal studs, therefore need less torque/more speed;

Twin thread screws for timber, more torque/less speed, as the screw travels twice as fast as the single threaded one.

Outcome? Both types of screw take (roughly) the same amount of time to drive in...

This theory is, of course, based entirely on my somewhat twisted sense of logic, so may be completely wrong! [unsure]

Jonathan

 

[Deansocial]

Yeah you need speed for metal, especially thicker than 0.8mm

 

[jmbfestool]

Forgot to mention! Reason I wanted higher torque over speed because I don't do that much plaster boarding and thought a drill which I could use for plywood/chipboard etc would be useful for me as a all rounder.

Its a brilliant auto feed and it is a truly fully auto feed gun.  It runs automatically all you have to do is push no need to pull the trigger.   Benefits saves battery.  

Mine has never jammed up unlike Makita which are crap I have used many many many Makitas hate them.

I bought a FEIN corded auto feed gun!  BRILLIANT!!!!  The end design looks like it could snap off but I have never broken it off and due to the design of the end its impossible to get jammed up screws!  God knows why Makita make their end enclosed

 

[wrightwoodwork]

I always get them mixed up I was actually thinking when using the self drilling type you use in metal construction. Not the metal studs for drywall

 

[jmbfestool]

Basic answer is

Lower rpm higher toque for wood (will screw into metal studs but not as well)

Higher rpm lower torque for metal stud (will screw into softwood not so well in hardwoods)

What do you do the most off?

 

[wrightwoodwork]

Not a problem I do mainly kits which are all soft wood so the higher speed is fine. The only hard thing I screw into is chipboard flooring into tji. Must admit doing kits is boring but it's a job

 

[Deansocial]

I always get them mixed up I was actually thinking when using the self drilling type you use in metal construction. Not the metal studs for drywall

You on about a tek gun then, typically 2500rpm.

 

[wrightwoodwork]

That's it

 

[wow]

If someone were to 'happen' to get one of the DWC 18-2500 here in the US, is there any place locally to get screws? I.E., is the DWC 18-2500 compatible with any other brand screws?

 

[msc]

I currently have the drywall attachment for the t / c drills and is brilliant for small jobs.
The drill runs at 1500 rpm on 2nd gear (ime  guessing) and works well in both plasterboard to softwood and thin metal 'c' section stud and metal ceiling firing channel. Always used fine screws so cant comment on coarse thread with this attachment.
Never used on anything other than standard and fire line plasterboard.
On larger jobs we get help from a small builder and they use makita, which as jmb says are crap, they keep getting stuck and they regally spray silicone spray on them.
I am leaning towards the lower rpm version.
Thanks for all replies.

 

[Saskataper]

If someone were to 'happen' to get one of the DWC 18-2500 here in the US, is there any place locally to get screws? I.E., is the DWC 18-2500 compatible with any other brand screws?

By the looks of it they are the same as hilti, makita, and PAM strips. From what I know there are only two styles PAM and quikdrive. 

The high speed drill is the way to go if your drywalling. The 2500 rpm drills are more for decking.
I really, really hope they bring the duradrive here that looks sweet.

Here is a short vid of my hilti sd-4500 with the collated attachment.

 

[jmbfestool]

If someone were to 'happen' to get one of the DWC 18-2500 here in the US, is there any place locally to get screws? I.E., is the DWC 18-2500 compatible with any other brand screws?

Far as I know if they fit Makita they fit protool/festool

 

[jmbfestool]

I currently have the drywall attachment for the t / c drills and is brilliant for small jobs.
The drill runs at 1500 rpm on 2nd gear (ime  guessing) and works well in both plasterboard to softwood and thin metal 'c' section stud and metal ceiling firing channel. Always used fine screws so cant comment on coarse thread with this attachment.
Never used on anything other than standard and fire line plasterboard.
On larger jobs we get help from a small builder and they use makita, which as jmb says are crap, they keep getting stuck and they regally spray silicone spray on them.
I am leaning towards the lower rpm version.
Thanks for all replies.

How I see it if your going to do a lot of metal studding and a bit of plasterboard onto soft wood then the higher RPM is best suited.  Just remember that something which struggles more will always use more batterie life.

But

If you do a bit of everything  metal wood harder wood decking floor boarding etc. then the lower RPM is the best to go for.  From what you said you just use the drill attachment you don't sound like a heavy user so to me a lower rpm version will give you more versatility to get more use out of the tool for use on other jobs.

 

[msc]

Thanks jmb

I am not a heavy user but am a tool junkie. The £50 voucher is pushing me to buy something, the higher amp batteries will come in useful (mine are 2.6 ah) and had them a few years.

The lower rpm sounds better suited to my needs, and with the various replies, seems more versatile. Also helps that yourself had the higher speed and them swapped it for the lower one.

 

[jmbfestool]

Thanks jmb

I am not a heavy user but am a tool junkie. The £50 voucher is pushing me to buy something, the higher amp batteries will come in useful (mine are 2.6 ah) and had them a few years.

The lower rpm sounds better suited to my needs, and with the various replies, seems more versatile. Also helps that yourself had the higher speed and them swapped it for the lower one.

Yes nice having more battery life!
I also noticed they are BOTH 18v.   When it was protool which is the one I have. It was between 14v or 18v.  

18v was the higher RPM and the 14v being the lower RPM

So when they rebranded it they made them both 18v.  

Interesting!  

Can't believe how time has gone so fast! I bought mine when protool just released it and when I swapped it I had to wait a little because they hadn't released the lower rpm version yet.

Didn't feel that long ago when I bought it!  Must be 3years ago unless I am mistaken!

Jmb