Festool Holesaw Kit?

[amcore]

Allright, Festool have now forster drillbits and auger drillbits, but no holesaw kit?
I have the protool Holesaw kit (that i shown here on the picture!) but i want it whit Centrotec ;D
Maybe like Pro-Fit or other multipurpuse holesaw kit.

What it your thoughts about that?

 

[Spandex]

More importantly, what the hell (did the forum software really just change that to ‘heck’? Who the hell says heck??) is going on with that systainer? It’s some bizarre mashup of classic and t-loc. And why is the t-loc catch attached to the body, not the lid??  [scared]

I’m assuming someone was asked to photoshop the promo picture of the old classic kit when it moved to t-loc, but how did they manage to get it that wrong?

 

[DeformedTree]

Any drillbit "kit" is rather silly as they are consumables.  But holes saws are vastly more consumable than say Augers. 

It's not just the holes saws which depending on what you are doing might only make it a hole or 2, but will always be dead before too long and you have to buy more.  But also the arbors don't last long, they will either be bent or seized onto a hole saw before too long.  Buy a nice carbide hole saw, bound to find a secret nail in wood on the first hole.

I just don't see them finding a market for something that will be thrown in the trash quickly. 

It's not that there is anything wrong with hole saws, but they are just consumed quickly, thus the nice dispenser racks in the Hardware Stores.

 

[squall_line]

I’m assuming someone was asked to photoshop the promo picture of the old classic kit when it moved to t-loc, but how did they manage to get it that wrong?

I think you just answered your own question.

Either that, or they gave it to James Fridman, the "photoshop guy who takes things literally".  That looks like what you'd get if you told someone like him "change the front of this to a T-Loc Systainer".

If you told him "change the front of this to a T-Loc", he would have made the whole face one giant T-Loc latch.

 

[AlexThePalex]

Centrotec for a holesaw is not a good idea, the shaft is way too thin for that. Might work with thin saws up to 30 mm, but go above that and your shaft will break very quickly.

 

[Spandex]

Centrotec for a holesaw is not a good idea, the shaft is way too thin for that. Might work with thin saws up to 30 mm, but go above that and your shaft will break very quickly.

When I read this, I thought it made perfect sense…

then I started thinking, when you want to use a hole saw with a Festool drill, you fit the centrotec jacobs chuck and put the arbor in there, right? So the torque of hole saw is still only being transmitted through a centrotec sized shaft (the one built into the back of the jacobs chuck).

So centrotec must be able to handle the torque of hole saws larger than 30mm.

 

[AlexThePalex]

Centrotec for a holesaw is not a good idea, the shaft is way too thin for that. Might work with thin saws up to 30 mm, but go above that and your shaft will break very quickly.

When I read this, I thought it made perfect sense…

then I started thinking, when you want to use a hole saw with a Festool drill, you fit the centrotec jacobs chuck and put the arbor in there, right? So the torque of hole saw is still only being transmitted through a centrotec sized shaft (the one built into the back of the jacobs chuck).

So centrotec must be able to handle the torque of hole saws larger than 30mm.

Yeah, because cordless drills are ideal for hole saws.  [tongue]

Festool drills will stop and annoyingly but meticulously beep at you before the torque gets big enough to break anything. The PDC will probably do better but I've given up on serious hole saw work with my T15, the corded drill gets to do that.

That little shaft in the back of the Jacobs chuck is just a stump compared to a normal centrotec shaft. Attached to a wide round plate inside the chuck, and fully enclosed by the output shaft of the drill. The longer the shaft, the more it is exposed, the more it flexes, and the quicker it will break.

 

[Spandex]

Whether cordless drills in general are suitable is a separate issue. So is the torque limiter on any given drill (although I’ve used a 70mm hole saw with my C18 and my PDC without any issues).

The question is whether the centrotec shaft can handle the torque. Any plates or enclosing of the shaft are not relevant for torque (although they may help with any off-axis load from someone levering the drill with the hole saw engaged in the wood).

I’ll leave Bosch to make the final point though - the smaller of their Progressor quick release hole saw arbors has a standard 1/4” hex shank and can be used for hole saws up to at least 76mm (I say “at least” because you can buy it in a set with a range of saws up to that diameter).

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Any drillbit "kit" is rather silly as they are consumables.  But holes saws are vastly more consumable than say Augers. 

It's not just the holes saws which depending on what you are doing might only make it a hole or 2, but will always be dead before too long and you have to buy more.  But also the arbors don't last long, they will either be bent or seized onto a hole saw before too long.  Buy a nice carbide hole saw, bound to find a secret nail in wood on the first hole.

I just don't see them finding a market for something that will be thrown in the trash quickly. 

It's not that there is anything wrong with hole saws, but they are just consumed quickly, thus the nice dispenser racks in the Hardware Stores.

The short life of most hole saws is mostly due to "user error". Almost everyone spins them way too fast in the first place, then they allow the dust to build-up  and overheat them even more.
Until the fire, I had hole saws that were several years old and used regularly. A few of them had been sharpened once or twice, but still going fine. The sharpening service we use actually makes them better than new.

 

[Mini Me]

Any drillbit "kit" is rather silly as they are consumables.  But holes saws are vastly more consumable than say Augers. 

It's not just the holes saws which depending on what you are doing might only make it a hole or 2, but will always be dead before too long and you have to buy more.  But also the arbors don't last long, they will either be bent or seized onto a hole saw before too long.  Buy a nice carbide hole saw, bound to find a secret nail in wood on the first hole.

I just don't see them finding a market for something that will be thrown in the trash quickly. 

It's not that there is anything wrong with hole saws, but they are just consumed quickly, thus the nice dispenser racks in the Hardware Stores.

The short life of most hole saws is mostly due to "user error". Almost everyone spins them way too fast in the first place, then they allow the dust to build-up  and overheat them even more.
Until the fire, I had hole saws that were several years old and used regularly. A few of them had been sharpened once or twice, but still going fine. The sharpening service we use actually makes them better than new.

A good trick to prevent sawdust build up with a hole saw is to drill a hole right on the hole saw cut line before starting and the saw dust is then ejected through that hole speeding up the operation hugely and allowing the hole saw to cut in one go. This obviously also means the hole saw does not heat up as much either. I suppose two holes would be even better and would not take more than a few seconds extra.

 

[Spandex]

I can’t really see Festool making anything to do with hole saws, but if they did I think it would make sense for them to design an arbor that was built into a centrotec chuck, rather than just making an arbor with a centrotec compatible shank. I.e. the arbor would be a chuck, not a drill bit.

It could be quick release at both ends - a fastfix centrotec chuck QR at the drill end, and a quick release at the saw end, similar to Bosch Powerchange or Starrett Ulti-Mate. With both those systems, you can put the quick release adaptor on any hole saw (because the thread is standardised) so you wouldn’t be limited to using Festool saws and you could easily replace damaged saws.

But as I said, I can’t really see Festool getting into this area.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

A good trick to prevent sawdust build up with a hole saw is to drill a hole right on the hole saw cut line before starting and the saw dust is then ejected through that hole speeding up the operation hugely and allowing the hole saw to cut in one go. This obviously also means the hole saw does not heat up as much either. I suppose two holes would be even better and would not take more than a few seconds extra.

Yes, this works especially well when drilling through multiple layers or when you can't get access to both sides. Drilling half way from each side is another good practice (when possible). Not only does it reduce the heat build-up for trapping dust in the path of the bit by reducing the amount of the saw that is actually in the material, it reduces the likelihood of tear-out on exit, and makes removal of the plug easier too.

 

[rst]

Drilling from both sides is a time honored locksmith trick to avoid tear out.  The other trick is to drill all the way through with a regular drill bit using a Big Gator guide then use your holesaw with a fluteless/drill rod so that the centering drill doesn't ream your guide hole throwing off the alignment. 

 

[kevin clifford]

I threw a piece of Kaizan foam in and put all my hole saws into a sys1. At some point a while back I was hoping to find a better quality longer lasting set. The Milwaukie kits seem to hold up pretty well and just add them as I need them. [attachimg=1]

 

[Crazyraceguy]

The ones from Morse and Lennox are not bad either but the ones I liked best were the "Pro" version of the Craftsman back in the day. They had huge cut-outs on opposite sides that cleared the chips/dust well and made it easier to get the plug out. I used to get them at Sears hardware, but those are no longer around.

 

[Cheese]

The short life of most hole saws is mostly due to "user error". Almost everyone spins them way too fast in the first place, then they allow the dust to build-up  and overheat them even more.

Until the fire, I had hole saws that were several years old and used regularly. A few of them had been sharpened once or twice, but still going fine. The sharpening service we use actually makes them better than new.

Just to follow up on your statement, If you use them properly they will last a long time. Here's a 1 1/8" Milwaukee that has had all of the paint rubbed off of it and it's still sharp and still in the rotation. I wouldn't use it on steel but for wood & aluminum it's fine.

[attachimg=1]

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Yes, proper use and some care goes a long way.

 

[Coen]

I’ll leave Bosch to make the final point though - the smaller of their Progressor quick release hole saw arbors has a standard 1/4” hex shank and can be used for hole saws up to at least 76mm (I say “at least” because you can buy it in a set with a range of saws up to that diameter).

Bad point as their PowerChange adapter isn't 1/4" but 8mm, which is way way bigger. And the sets that contain the 76mm hole saw comes with the 11mm version.

The Progressor series actually goes to 210mm

The 150mm and 300mm long adapters are only in 11mm. There is also an SDS Adapter.

And I happen to own all of them  [tongue]. Well, not the Progressor Series, but all the adapters and one series up, that cut 60mm deep. The first hole that set cut was in my wallet  [eek]

I do have the Profit Plug Buster, but it's a mixed bag. I think it would have worked better with way more teeth.