Festool Jigsaw TRION PS 300 - out of stock or discontinued?
- Thread starter ReneS
- Start date
Crazyraceguy
Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2015
- Messages
- 4,897
I don't do much overhead, but underhand is the main reason I bought a barrel-grip saw. The lighter weight is also helpful on vertical cuts. Which is something I do with some frequency and also one of the reasons I appreciate the dust extraction, over the Bosch blowing the dust ahead.
A couple things re: this Trion-
1 - I was at Woodcraft of Washington DC in Virginia over the weekend and they had the Trion on display so I think they have them in stock - in case anyone is looking.
2 - I've been cutting today with my PS 300, as well as my friend's PSB420 and maybe because I'm old but I can't really see what I'm doing with the PS 300. I feel as though I'm cutting with The Force. Dropped a stick light nearby to help but I'm feeling a bit blind. Am I just doing it wrong?
The Carvex I'm using doesn't have the wobbly blade issue (at least I don't know enough about it to perceive it) and with the light I can see a bit better.
Granted the way I've been having to cut the pieces I've had to kinda operate the tools from behind and to the side so that hampers my sightline but I'm wondering if I'm just doing it wrong with the Trion?
to note, I'm notching out 75mm half lap joints in 75x33mm (dimensioned down 2"x4") lumber.
1 - I was at Woodcraft of Washington DC in Virginia over the weekend and they had the Trion on display so I think they have them in stock - in case anyone is looking.
2 - I've been cutting today with my PS 300, as well as my friend's PSB420 and maybe because I'm old but I can't really see what I'm doing with the PS 300. I feel as though I'm cutting with The Force. Dropped a stick light nearby to help but I'm feeling a bit blind. Am I just doing it wrong?
The Carvex I'm using doesn't have the wobbly blade issue (at least I don't know enough about it to perceive it) and with the light I can see a bit better.
Granted the way I've been having to cut the pieces I've had to kinda operate the tools from behind and to the side so that hampers my sightline but I'm wondering if I'm just doing it wrong with the Trion?
to note, I'm notching out 75mm half lap joints in 75x33mm (dimensioned down 2"x4") lumber.
derekcohen
Member
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2008
- Messages
- 922
To increase my ability to saw to a line I epoxied on a steel plate ...
... and the used a tiny flashlight from Lee Valley ...
I would like to place a light behind the dust cowl. Any ideas?
Regards from Perth
Derek
... and the used a tiny flashlight from Lee Valley ...
I would like to place a light behind the dust cowl. Any ideas?
Regards from Perth
Derek
Well, count me among the frustrated Carvex owners.
I have adjusted the blade guide and checked it several times, but the blade will randomly bounce around. (Of course, there may be some recurring factor, but I haven't figured it out.)
The frustrating part is that the blade will bounce around when I am pushing forward through wood. I figured that at least once I began a cut, the blade would get pinned in the guide, but that isn't always the case.
As I mentioned, I mostly use the jigsaw to cut curves, but some curves approximate straight lines and I terminate some curves with a square cut, like when the curve of a cabinet base ends inside the edge of the board rather than continuing until it exits the board.
I bought some grub screws, and I guess I will have to try to apply the fix, but that is not what I want to spend time and energy on.
I have adjusted the blade guide and checked it several times, but the blade will randomly bounce around. (Of course, there may be some recurring factor, but I haven't figured it out.)
The frustrating part is that the blade will bounce around when I am pushing forward through wood. I figured that at least once I began a cut, the blade would get pinned in the guide, but that isn't always the case.
As I mentioned, I mostly use the jigsaw to cut curves, but some curves approximate straight lines and I terminate some curves with a square cut, like when the curve of a cabinet base ends inside the edge of the board rather than continuing until it exits the board.
I bought some grub screws, and I guess I will have to try to apply the fix, but that is not what I want to spend time and energy on.
I've been using the Carvex a bit and the trigger on the D-handle seems wonky. Like I don't know if it will start by pressing - especially if I had just pressed it. Is there some kind of trick to getting it to work smoothly and consistently?
I'm coming from a DeWalt 331 which is very intuitive. The Carvex doesn't feel as intuitive.
I'm coming from a DeWalt 331 which is very intuitive. The Carvex doesn't feel as intuitive.
Similar threads
