Festool MFT/3 MDF inlay repair

[dusty73]

Hello,

first, I’d like to introduce myself. I’m Hans, 37 years old and working as a graphic designer in The Netherlands.
I am new to the forum and (fairly) new to using Festool tools. Me and my dad purchased our first Festool, a TS-55EBQ together with two FS1400 guide rails, about three years ago. This was soon followed by a second(hand) purchase, a CT22 dust extractor.

Although very pleased with the build quality, functionality and capabilities of the TS-55EBQ, I would like it to be more precise when cross cutting narrow stock. I cannot find a way to secure the guide rail effectively when doing so.

Both this issue, and the fact that I need a portable work bench, jump started my interest in the MFT/3 Multi Function Table. Having read a lot about this table and everything you can do with the aid of it, I’ve decided that this is going to be my next purchase.

One of the things that keep showing up in the various threads on the MFT is the damaging of the part of the MDF inlay which acts as a splinter guard. I have seen people using putty and other materials to repair the cuts in the MDF.

I was wondering if one could just cut of the MDF insert, so that it ends approximately halfway the permanently attached rail guide. This way, one could easily replace the remaining part with a plain piece of MDF that has the same thickness as the MDF inlay. The only drawback would be that you don’t have any holes for clamps on the cutting side of the rail guide. Like mentioned earlier, I don’t own an MFT/3, yet, so please excuse me if this doesn’t make any sense.

I'll add a drawing as soon as I've figured out how to attach an image...

I look forward to your opinions!

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Hans, welcome to the forum.

If you cut your MFT top, you are likely going to compromise its integrity resulting in sagging and other potential problems. The top can be turned and flipped, meaning that you have potentially four different positions to create a "new" kerf. Furthermore, you could move the guiderail.

There are quite a few ways members have dealt with cutting thin material. I'm sure some of our members will offer their feedback and solutions. I just wanted to offer my opinions on cutting your top.

 

[Scott Rollins]

Hans:
I think you could inlay a 25mm wide by 6mm thick inlay into a groove pretty easily.  I have been using my MFT3 for the last 6 months.  The groove cut buy the saw blade is not really a big deal to me.  In fact I like to use it to line up my next cut better than using the guide rail.-when the guide rail is down it is a little difficult to move the material due to the friction strips.

It you do inlay your mft you may want to run a cross brace under the cut line to minimize sagging as Shane has already suggested.

 

[tiralie]

Hans:
When my Kapex is not handy, I use my MTF/3 and the tools that come with it for cross cutting narrow ( > 10mm) melamine  plywood etc. Used with the stop, I can cut square, consistent pieces all day long.
You shouldn't get any splintering/chipping because of a 3-5mm cut in the top unless you are cutting extremely brittle material (melamine) and your blade is not sharp and your saw is out of alignment etc.
The table and tools that come with the MFT/3 is a great system. The top is a consumable and is designed to be cut.
I understand your reluctance about cutting into a nice shiny new top.
I was the same when I got mine.
I would caution you not to cut the top as you have indicated.
Here are my thoughts:
There are screws in each corner holding the top to the frame. The top is quite heavy and is more dense than MDF (HDF?). By  removing two to insert a new piece you compromise the rigidity of the table. The open end will most likely sag over time the table will not remain square and cutting it as you have indicated will subject the remaining portion of the top to loosing (when folded up for storing etc.) due to torsion on the screws holding it in.

If you really want to save the top, cover it with a piece of MDF fix it to the table with bench dogs or clamps and cut away. It's a PITA but it works.

The sooner you buy one and start using it the sooner you will be wondering what the hell you were worrying about the table when you knock the next project out of the park.
Good luck.
Tim

 

[dusty73]

Hello,

thanks for the welcome and the responses thus far. I hadn't thought of the top as an integral part of the complete structure, hence adding to the rigidity of the table. I now understand that cutting it would probably result in the MFT becoming unstable, and the surface of the top becoming prone to sagg or warp.

There are quite a few ways members have dealt with cutting thin material. I'm sure some of our members will offer their feedback and solutions. I just wanted to offer my opinions on cutting your top.

I think the MFT will surely make cutting narrow/thin stock very easy. My current problems with cutting narrow stock are with just the TS-55 EBQ and the FS1400 guide rail.

The sooner you buy one and start using it the sooner you will be wondering what the hell you were worrying about the table when you knock the next project out of the park.
Good luck.
Tim

Yeah, I hope I will be able to purchase one before the end of this year!

Thanks again, and I'll be posting some experiences when I've bought the table.

Hans

 

[dusty73]

One more thing regarding the MFT: can it be stored vertically when folded in?

Hans

 

[jvsteenb]

I do it routinely, but usually remove the rail before I do. That's quite quick and easy to do, as a matter of fact.
If I foresee that the MFT-3 will not be used for a couple of days, I also remove the fence - but that's not a necessity, as you can store the MFT-3 on it's other end.

Regards,

Job

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Holy Cannoli!  [blink]

If you have any left over, it goes well with a YooHoo.

 

[Kodi Crescent]

True confession here and only the truly anal retentive need continue.

I saw this online and it is very easy. I did it twice (yes, I am not a pro and have wayyyy too much time). After the top gets cut up a bit, get some putty (the kind you mix with water), paint tape off the cuts and fill in the cuts smoothing it out with a putty knife. Take off the tape and your top looks a little better and is nice and smooth for assembly.

Durham's Rock Hard Putty.

I did it too.

 

[Loren Hedahl]

I fill the extraneous kerf marks in mine with polyester auto body filler.  I don't know what brands they sell on your side of the big pond, but the stuff most easily obtained here goes by the Bondo name.

Probably it is a non-issue but I went with polyester putty instead of water based because I was concerned about the MDF (HDF?) swelling with the water as the putty sets up.

Also, the polyester putty sets up real fast.  After about 5 to 10 minutes I just clean the residue up with a cabinet scraper.  No sanding needed.

The down side is the smell.  (I actually kinda' like it in small amounts.)  But the short set up time is about right to enjoy a cup of coffee outside of the shop.

 

[sancho57]

I ended up using body filler to. It worked great. I first tried using wood putty but it didnt do as good a job as I wanted it to. It worked, but I didnt like the look of it. The body filler was awesome and rock hard

 

[James Watriss]

Isn't putty or bondo going to be a little bit rough on the carbide?

Why not run a dado and insert a strip of foam board? (don't cut all the way through the top)

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Why don't you guys just send in your MFT tops for repair under the 1+2 warranty?  ;D ;D ;D

 

[mouppe]

I just cannot understand the point of repairing the MFT top. Surely the effort of filling in the groove on the MFT is wasted after just the first new cut?

If you are concerned about tear-out on the underside of the cut, why not just lay a thin sheet of MDF or plywood on top of the MFT before cutting?

 

[sancho57]

Isn't putty or bondo going to be a little bit rough on the carbide?

Why not run a dado and insert a strip of foam board? (don't cut all the way through the top)

Nah after the first cut the blade will have clearance so the bondo shouldnt be a issue IMO

 

[Corwin]

Why don't you guys just send in your MFT tops for repair under the 1+2 warranty?  ;D ;D ;D

[doh]  ... and here I bought all those boxes of sandpaper.  Hadn't considered just ordering one of each type and grit and then return each sheet as it failed to continue to preform.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Lester has a dedicated tech for grit repair on all sheets and discs of sandpaper.  Unfortunately, turn around time is several years.  Hope you'll be patient.

 

[sgryd]

Hi.
I'm building a custom work bench. I'ts going to be a non portable MFT (it'll probably weight about 150 kg). If you position the guide rail at the same place all the time, the kerf in the table will work well. But once you have cut with the blade angled you widen the kerf and it's not as good as backing board anymore.

I'm thinking of adding a cross brace under the kerf and route out a wide "dado" in the top so I can easily put a new backing board whenever I want. I'm thinking 6mm deep by 50mm wide. The dado not go all the way out to the end of the top, i.e. I'll leave about 20mm in each end to loch the insert backing board.

This way I can have a separate insert for 45 degree cutting.

Anyone have any more thoughts about this?

 

[peter halle]

Why not investigate doing a shallow sliding dovetail? 

Peter

 

[sgryd]

Thanks, I'll try different concepts in a controlled environment, the dovetail concept as well.
The aluminum profiles for my workbench arrived today. I'm really looking forward to put it together.
//Michael