Festool Router Table With Sliding Table

[Custard]

How are other users getting on with the Festool Router Table when used with the sliding table?

I'm struggling when using it for cutting tenons. Consequently I'm tending to either use the sliding table without the router table fence (making cut settings using the flip stop on the sliding table fence), or I'll use the router table fence on it's own backing up the workpiece with a 90 degree off-cut and sliding that along the router table fence. Either method works, but neither is optimum. Without the router table fence there's no hold down, and with the router table fence holding the workpiece to the push block sometimes introduces errors.

The main problem is that I can't really get enough accuracy when adjusting the router table fence using the engraved lines on the table.

When I'm setting up a spindle moulder with a sliding table, the main datum is the axis of travel of the sliding table. The sliding table fence is set square to that datum, and the spindle moulder fence is set in line with that datum. The spindle moulder fence can then be dialled in or out but stays absolutely parallel. The Festool router table fence doesn't have this facility, so when using the sliding table and the router table fence together I'm not getting perfectly square shoulders on a tenon, they're only out by a hair, but I wonder if any user has found a way to get them dead on?

Thanks

 

[Sparktrician]

I use a 450mm Woodpeckers reference square to set the fence on the sliding table square to the fence on the CMS insert.  I do not use the index marks on the router fence for anything other than a rough reference, to be fine-tuned later using the big square.  This has worked well for me.  If I'm using a router bit with a bearing, I set the fence on the insert using the 450mm square in a similar manner, just with extra effort to ensure that the fence is in-line with the bearing. 

 

[tbellemare]

I don't like using both the fence and sliding table together. I leave the fence in place to aid in dust collection but I don't want the work piece touching it.

Tom

 

[Tinker]

I use the fence as a stop block sort of.  I set it as square to the sliding fence as possible without too much fiddeling.
I bolt a stop block to the table fence just short of the router bit.  Butt the material against the block and slide forward so the wood is free of restraint as it slides thru the bit.  The wood is held against the sliding fence with a very tight grip or with a clamp. That is the same way I did it when cutting tennons or short pieces with my table saw before I was introduced to the ATF 55/MFT and got rid of the TS. Nothing got trapped between the fence and spinning cutter that way.
Tinker

 

[sancho57]

I don't like using both the fence and sliding table together. I leave the fence in place to aid in dust collection but I don't want the work piece touching it.

Tom

I set up a stop to use it  for repeat cuts. But yer right to use them together to run the piece the length of the fence nope yer right on that IMO

 

[fshanno]

How long is the tenon and what size stock?

 

[Custard]

How long is the tenon and what size stock?

It's tenons in general, typically cabinet tenons in 1 1/2" x 3/4" stock with 1/2" long tenons, but can go up from there to leg tenon sizes.

I think Tom had it right, on the Festool router table use either the router fence or the sliding carriage fence, but using both together is pushing the realistic set up precision.