Festool RS 400 EQ bearing removal

[ThingWizard]

Hi!

My RS 400 EQ suddenly lost almost all power, so I tested the windings and realized at least one winding on the rotor is shorted. I need to change the rotor, but how do I get the shaft out of the bottom bearing ? The bearing is seated into the grey plastic bottom dust extraction shell unit (wow, that a mouthful) so it is impossible to get a bearing puller under it. Any force on the plastic will surely break it.

I assume it should be possible to change the bearings without destroying the plastic housing.

Any help or suggestions greatly appreciated!

Joachim

 

[guybo]

Hi, if the part is #29 it's one unit 489187@46 dollars. good luck guy[attachimg=1] welcome to the FOG,sorry missed the eq on model, however same part 489187. guy

 

[ThingWizard]

Hi! Thank you for the welcome

The problem is not #29, it is the plastic shroud above #24 that #24 sits in that is giving me problems. (the bearing is 23 on my schematic below)

The problem is that bearing 23 sits in the plastic shroud 20 and then the fan 18 is right above it on the shaft. So 20 is wedged between the bearing and the fan.

 

[guybo]

Hi, the shaft drives out of that bearing Is that bearing bad? or just change while it's open.If shaft drive hard cool it down. guy nothing is blued or burnt looking.

 

[AlexThePalex]

I'd try to make a wooden support for the plastic part so you can gently tap on the shaft. Make sure you shape it for maximal support. But that plastic is not as weak as you might think.

 

[ThingWizard]

Hi, the shaft drives out of that bearing Is that bearing bad? or just change while it's open.If shaft drive hard cool it down. guy nothing is blued or burnt looking.

The bearing is ok, but I cannot change the rotor without removing it from the bearing. Good idea trying to cool the shaft. Thanx

 

[ThingWizard]

I'd try to make a wooden support for the plastic part so you can gently tap on the shaft. Make sure you shape it for maximal support. But that plastic is not as weak as you might think.

Good idea too, I already tried to do this but it didn't budge. I'll try again tomorrow as you say trying to maximize support. Maybe together with some cooling spray to cool down the shaft as Guy suggested

 

[tsmi243]

The plastic probably IS stronger than you're imagining, and the bearing is in a Schrodinger-ian state of being both tight and loose until the waveform collapses. 

Sharp raps will work better than continuous force.  It'll probably pop loose when you least expect it. 

Oh, and if you hadn't already thought of this, *leave the screw in the shank* before hitting it with a hammer.  Even better if you have a spare screw you can sacrifice.

 

[guybo]

Hi again if none of the above works look for one of these,span across diagonal holes on housing use long enough bolts and washers to protect the housing and press it out.PM me if you need to. if you have a brass drift use that to hit on. you can usually get one of the push pulls@ rent-a-center."[member=76235]ThingWizard[/member]"[attachimg=1]

 

[ThingWizard]

the bearing is in a Schrodinger-ian state of being both tight and loose until the waveform collapses.

[big grin] Excellent, so that means that due to the observer effect I need to concentrate on the bearing coming loose, nudging the probability in my favour before the waveform collapses! Oh and yes, the screw is in the shank. And yes, I probably should use a sacrificial one. The percussive maintenance I have applied so far has shrunk the torx by a not insignificant percentage...

Guy, excellent idea too, I will see if i can find one of those pullers if all else fails

Thank you so much everyone!

 

[tsmi243]

due to the observer effect I need to concentrate on the bearing coming loose

Basically, yes  [smile]

Taking a break for a coffee and coming back in 45 minutes can also be a quantum catalyst, IME.

 

[ThingWizard]

An update on this thread I had the sander sitting on my workbench for half a year just to see if the bearing would be shaken loose by all the wave function collapses around us. It wasn't.

I tried some more pulling today, it didn't budge. I cleaned the rotor, re-measured the resistance, first thought my original measurements were wrong but a second test confirmed one rotor coil is 0 Ohms

 

[ThingWizard]

Ookay, update. Bearing is loose. The plastic cracked, but could be epoxied together. Now to find the correct rotor that ships here...  [crying]