Festool Sander Guide

Hi Scott,

I really found this to be helpful.  I bought the LS130 last week for a stair refinish project. 

Took me a good thirty minutes to figure out how to change the pads.  Doh !

Thanks for the good work.

Brian
 
Brian Livingstone said:
Hi Scott,

I really found this to be helpful.  I bought the LS130 last week for a stair refinish project. 

Took me a good thirty minutes to figure out how to change the pads.  Doh !

Thanks for the good work.

Brian

Glad to hear it, Brian. Yes, the LS130 IS the stair master!!
 
Thank you for sharing this guide!

I've recently come back to setting up a workshop (life got in the way the past 12 months), and have just started kitting out with Festool equipment, sanders were on my list to research tonight.

As it happens, this guide opened my eyes to the RTS400, which I believe will actually suit me better than the RTS300 I was looking at - so my heartfelt thanks for a very timely post  [smile]
 
Thanks for the feedback, guys. I am glad to hear that you are finding the information helpful.
 
Scott Burt said:
Thanks for the feedback, guys. I am glad to hear that you are finding the information helpful.

Thank you for the guide, it was very enjoyable to read!  I ended up buying a Rotex Ro 125 before I read this guide about two weeks ago (already have an older ETS 150/5 EQ) and I probably would not have purchased it had I read your guide first and gone for something else.  I mainly do woodworking interior like cabinets and furniture.  My 5/50 was a used hand-me-down from my brother who has every festool made x 2 or 3 and so I never really even learned how to purchase a Festool sander.

It bums me out, I love the 125, the idea of it, I won't be doing any exterior sanding, none.  I hope that it works for me but I'll still keep it and just buy another one, the idea of giving it up now bothers me :|  Can't I just pretend it's great for cabinets and furniture?  I guess the 90 would have been a smart one to get, that's next if so!
 
jdw101 said:
Scott Burt said:
Thanks for the feedback, guys. I am glad to hear that you are finding the information helpful.

Thank you for the guide, it was very enjoyable to read!  I ended up buying a Rotex Ro 125 before I read this guide about two weeks ago (already have an older ETS 150/5 EQ) and I probably would not have purchased it had I read your guide first and gone for something else.  I mainly do woodworking interior like cabinets and furniture.  My 5/50 was a used hand-me-down from my brother who has every festool made x 2 or 3 and so I never really even learned how to purchase a Festool sander.

It bums me out, I love the 125, the idea of it, I won't be doing any exterior sanding, none.  I hope that it works for me but I'll still keep it and just buy another one, the idea of giving it up now bothers me :|  Can't I just pretend it's great for cabinets and furniture?  I guess the 90 would have been a smart one to get, that's next if so!

I love the RO125 as a tool, and it can do a lot for you in the finish realm, albeit bulky and requiring some technique to balance. It will excel on horizontals for you.

I see a DTS400 in your future.
 
Holmz said:
I did not see the BS series in there...

Scott is based in North America.  The BS series of sanders are not offered by Festool here.

Peter
 
So I read the link.  I’m really drawn to the RO90, but the cost seems high for the need I have to fill (delta pad work).  I’m tempted to go the DTS 400, but I’ve read that the point wears outs much quicker than the rest of the paper.  I have a Fein multimaster and the detail work I’ve done with it is acceptable, but not great.  I’m currently running a Pro5 and RO150. I use the 150 for 80 grit cut on new material to remove mill marks and I finish with the Pro5 to 120 or finer.

Ultimately, I think the RO90 is overkill simply for detail work.  I think the DTS400 will be next and the ETS150/3 will round out my stable.  If my Pro5 craps out, I will probably replace it with an ETS125 REQ

I am open to other suggestions.
 
Naildrivingman said:
So I read the link.  I’m really drawn to the RO90, but the cost seems high for the need I have to fill (delta pad work).  I’m tempted to go the DTS 400, but I’ve read that the point wears outs much quicker than the rest of the paper.  I have a Fein multimaster and the detail work I’ve done with it is acceptable, but not great.  I’m currently running a Pro5 and RO150. I use the 150 for 80 grit cut on new material to remove mill marks and I finish with the Pro5 to 120 or finer.

Ultimately, I think the RO90 is overkill simply for detail work.  I think the DTS400 will be next and the ETS150/3 will round out my stable.  If my Pro5 craps out, I will probably replace it with an ETS125 REQ

I am open to other suggestions.

      I have an RO90. I use it as a "jack of all trades" site work sander. The fact that it is small, random orbit, aggressive and delta makes it so I can just take one sander for most things. I keep a selection of delta and disk abrasives in the RO90 Sys which makes a handy single Sys - II package. If the job is a real sanding job or I know there is some particular or significant sanding, then I prefer others for non-  delta sanding tasks and take additional sanders.

    Things I personally don't like about the RO90 (round) ......... can be hard to keep flat (need to be paying attention),  I find it hard to keep the right pressure on the pad on narrow edges , and also harder to keep flat on edges than a larger pad.

    I don't have a DTS but I am pretty sure the RO90 (delta) has better reach than the DTS. And the extended reach pad for the RO90 (delta) is significant compared to the DTS. So that may be a consideration. I find the delta mode to be excellent.

  However the things that I both like and dislike are also exactly what allows it to do just about any sanding job .......... jack of all trades.

    Yes, the abrasive point does wear fast (er) which can be somewhat remedied by rotating the abrasive.

      Seth
 
SRSemenza said:
Naildrivingman said:
So I read the link.  I’m really drawn to the RO90, but the cost seems high for the need I have to fill (delta pad work).  I’m tempted to go the DTS 400, but I’ve read that the point wears outs much quicker than the rest of the paper.  I have a Fein multimaster and the detail work I’ve done with it is acceptable, but not great.  I’m currently running a Pro5 and RO150. I use the 150 for 80 grit cut on new material to remove mill marks and I finish with the Pro5 to 120 or finer.

Ultimately, I think the RO90 is overkill simply for detail work.  I think the DTS400 will be next and the ETS150/3 will round out my stable.  If my Pro5 craps out, I will probably replace it with an ETS125 REQ

I am open to other suggestions.

      I have an RO90. I use it as a "jack of all trades" site work sander. The fact that it is small, random orbit, aggressive and delta makes it so I can just take one sander for most things. I keep a selection of delta and disk abrasives in the RO90 Sys which makes a handy single Sys - II package. If the job is a real sanding job or I know there is some particular or significant sanding, then I prefer others for non-  delta sanding tasks and take additional sanders.

    Things I personally don't like about the RO90 (round) ......... can be hard to keep flat (need to be paying attention),  I find it hard to keep the right pressure on the pad on narrow edges , and also harder to keep flat on edges than a larger pad.

    I don't have a DTS but I am pretty sure the RO90 (delta) has better reach than the DTS. And the extended reach pad for the RO90 (delta) is significant compared to the DTS. So that may be a consideration. I find the delta mode to be excellent.

  However the things that I both like and dislike are also exactly what allows it to do just about any sanding job .......... jack of all trades.

    Yes, the abrasive point does wear fast (er) which can be somewhat remedied by rotating the abrasive.

      Seth

Naildrivingman said:
So I read the link.  I’m really drawn to the RO90, but the cost seems high for the need I have to fill (delta pad work).  I’m tempted to go the DTS 400, but I’ve read that the point wears outs much quicker than the rest of the paper.  I have a Fein multimaster and the detail work I’ve done with it is acceptable, but not great.  I’m currently running a Pro5 and RO150. I use the 150 for 80 grit cut on new material to remove mill marks and I finish with the Pro5 to 120 or finer.

Ultimately, I think the RO90 is overkill simply for detail work.  I think the DTS400 will be next and the ETS150/3 will round out my stable.  If my Pro5 craps out, I will probably replace it with an ETS125 REQ

I am open to other suggestions.

Thanks [member=1619]SRSemenza[/member]

I have steered away from the RO90 because I don’t see myself using the round pad as much as the Delta for the tipsy reason.  You mention that you think the 90 gets into tighter spots than the 400 because of its reach. I get that. Do you find that the overall length of the tool gets in the way ever?  That may be another reason for me to consider the 400. From a leverage standpoint, I can see the tip of the 90 delta digging in faster and easier than the 400.

All in all, I really like the RO150 as my general go to sander. My need for detail work is not great, but when I need a detail tool...I REALLY need one.  My Fein MM works ok, but it can really dig in fast. I have to be Uber careful with it.

Does anyone have a condensed description of what the functions are for the various accessory pads?  I typically use what came on the tool.  The standard pad has served me well, but I should have knowledge on what the others do.

Thanks so far for advice.

Edit> fixed quote box for clarity
 
Naildrivingman said:
Thanks [member=1619]SRSemenza[/member]

I have steered away from the RO90 because I don’t see myself using the round pad as much as the Delta for the tipsy reason.  You mention that you think the 90 gets into tighter spots than the 400 because of its reach. I get that. Do you find that the overall length of the tool gets in the way ever?  That may be another reason for me to consider the 400. From a leverage standpoint, I can see the tip of the 90 delta digging in faster and easier than the 400.

All in all, I really like the RO150 as my general go to sander. My need for detail work is not great, but when I need a detail tool...I REALLY need one.  My Fein MM works ok, but it can really dig in fast. I have to be Uber careful with it.

Does anyone have a condensed description of what the functions are for the various accessory pads?  I typically use what came on the tool.  The standard pad has served me well, but I should have knowledge on what the others do.

Thanks so far for advice.

Yes, I have had the length get in the way a couple times, not prevent use completely but get in the way. It certainly could prevent use. On the other hand the length is useful when trying to smooth out some inside corner or harder to reach spot (both length / style of tool and length of pad). I find that I get very good control using it on details. Easy to poke the tip into something, hold , maneuver in places where I think a palm grip could be difficult.

I haven't had a problem with the tip digging in too much. Tool shape makes it easy to control in that respect. And I  think   visibility might be better than the DTS when reaching into a detail spot.

It really comes down to specifics of the sanding situation as to whether the DTS or RO90 is the right/best tool  for the job.

BTW, it isn't that the round pad isn't generally good it just depends the task coupled with personal preference.

Seth
 
I have them both and they both excel at different things. The DTS shines when sanding next to an edge as the pad is rounded and the sander does not skitter away where as the RO does not work as well. The RO has a hard and soft option and an extended option, so it can get into tighter areas - it is lower profile than the DTS, but the DTS is much shorter in length - both have advantages/disadvantages.

I prefer the DTS when sanding on edges of material as the orbital does not tend to want to walk off the edge as easily as with an RO type sander.

I do not have issues with either digging into material - they both work well. The key with the RO I have found is to hold one end by the cord and the other hand on the front and it is easy to control and keep flat. The DTS is very easy to use one-handed.

Both have their place IMHO.
 
Hi Scott,

Here is my inventory:

RO150- surprised how much I use it.
RS2 - use it a lot.
LS130- I don’t use it a lot, but when I use it, I love it.
DTS 400 REQ- use it a lot.

Thinking about the RTS400 REQ.  Does it make sense with the DTS ?
Definitely want the ETS EC150/3

Might get the RO125.

Sold my RO90.  Dont miss it.

Cabinetmaker, furniture maker, generalist.

Thanks.
 
Brian Livingstone said:
Hi Scott,

Here is my inventory:

RO150- surprised how much I use it.
RS2 - use it a lot.
LS130- I don’t use it a lot, but when I use it, I love it.
DTS 400 REQ- use it a lot.

Thinking about the RTS400 REQ.  Does it make sense with the DTS ?
Definitely want the ETS EC150/3

Might get the RO125.

Sold my RO90.  Don’t miss it.

Cabinetmaker, furniture maker, generalist.

Thanks.

Hi Brian

You have a good stable for your work, it sounds like. I too love Rotex, and mostly when I need power. I rarely use any of the Rotex in orbital mode (with the exception of the 90 delta). I find them to be a bit cumbersome compared to the sportier 3mm and 5mm stroke ec tec lines. The 150/5 is one of my most frequent grabs.

I totally agree on the LS130. Don't need it often, but when you need it, nothing else will do. I have found more uses than I thought, such as sanding crown on exteriors (which I know you don't probably do).

RS2 is a sweetheart for tops and large surfaces, for sure. The gentle giant.

Now, in my work (which is a variety of everything from serious cabinet grade to rough exterior work), the DTS400 is usually in my stack and I usually try to work with just two sanders a day (hard sometimes), so I am always looking for the right two, and the DTS is usually one of the two.

In my opinion, the RTS400 is a great little sander, but perhaps somewhat redundant since you have the DTS. The DTS can do most everything that the RTS can do, while there are many things the DTS can do that the RTS can't. DTS is more versatile.

It always boils down to knowing what type of work you do and HOW you want to work, when selecting your ideal fleet.

I do use the RTS alot but mostly when it is specific to face frames or square stock that is exactly the size of the RTS pad. You can take it into corners, but not with the finesse of the DTS. However, you do already have the LS, so it would share abrasives with that, and not require to stock a new abrasive line, that is convenient.

So to make a short answer long, I would check out other useful options before pulling the trigger on a RTS. Check out the ec tecs, and you may also appreciate the extractable blocks. I use those things all the time at super high grits. There are some final sands (especially on clear finishes), that I just don't want to put a power sander on at all.

Hope this helps.
 
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