Festool Thickness Planer

Joined
Feb 18, 2013
Messages
5
...okay well, only kind of, but it is using Festool product:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=o68D75zlSk8

I have a project coming up where I will be laminating 1/2" strips of 1/2" plywood so that the end grain is showing for the face of the panel. I did a quick trial tonight of cutting the strips using a TS75 and the thin strip strip jig that goes with the Seneca parallel guides.

They worked not bad, but there was a variance of 30/100ths of an inch or so throughout the strips, almost forming a taper. Clearly, I didn't have them set up right, but in the absence of setup blocks (either purchased or shop-made), it is the best I could get.

For the next test, I will be using the cabinet saw and making one of those ball-bearing thin strip jigamabobs to cut the strips. I expect much better results there.

However, I rigged up my OF1400 router as a thickness planer to plane the strips down to the appropriate thickness. It worked quite well - the variance was down to about 3/1000ths of an inch across the strips after planing. I am sure I could modify the jig to get that down even more.

I apologize for not actually demonstrating the planing of a strip in the video. In my excitement of it working, I planed all the strips I had cut.

Would running the strips through a thickness planer be a big no-no, or just really hard on the knives?

My other thought is that a cabinet scraper could do well to level the sheet after the glue-up. I only have the card types, but am lusting after the Veritas Cabinet Scraper.

-Nate
 
thats a nice little jig
i think i would put some kind of feater board or hold down to keep the strips down against the runway

most PLYs and MDFs are very hard on planer blades.

im sure we would all like to see the finished  article
 
I agree that a featherboard would make it even better!

That being said, the Festool Thickness Planer is now obsolete.  I made one of those ball-bearing thin rip jigs for my cabinet saw and the pieces are identical across the entire length from piece to piece.  It is also considerably quicker than using the TS75.  Ah well - it was an interesting test.

When the project gets finished, I will be sure to post it!

-Nate
 
NiceJig...Thanks for posting.  I Saw something On This Old House Or Ask This  Old House WitH a Jig Used For Moldings That Was Similar, But You Fed The Opposite Direction To Cut The Profile.  Pretty Cool Use Of The Router For This Application.

Scot
 
Mine is based on this concept:

http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/209/tablesawrippingjig.pdf

It does look a little different, heh:

garepe2u.jpg
 
I used a mitre slot from a featherboard and a bearing from a slot cutter.  The too long #10 screw secures the bearing.  Works great!

u4e4u4yp.jpg


ejude2yg.jpg


-Nate
 
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