What has to do average person if (s)he wants fresh piece of furniture? Goes to Ikea and buys bunch of different boxes then assemble furniture. What does Festool owner? Actually doing the same, but instead buying nice lumber.
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I bought some beautiful walnut boards. First, I had to cut some waste, just to relive my plane.
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After planer I cut edges with my TS-55 saw again. With proper setup TS-55 makes perfect square glue-up ready edges. Then cut 24 domino mortises for better tabletop alignment.
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While glue on tabletop drying, I started to cut legs blanks. Board was planed up to 70mm (2 ¾”) first. For this task I had to use TS-75. 70mm is maximum cut depth for this beast. It cuts walnut without any fatigue, or slowness. As you can see it makes perfect, smooth cuts.
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If you cut thick lumber, please don’t forget use clamps and anti-kickback stopper. (It goes with TS-55 and TS-75 saws)
[attachimg=6]
For smoothing table top I used RO-150FEQ and RS-2E sanders. Tell you the truth, RS-2E made most of sanding job. RO-150 just removed glue lines. On this stage I sanded up to P150 grit.
[attachimg=7]
Once everything is flat, it’s time for cutting tabletop to dimensions. TS-55, rails and good carpenters red square make it right.
[attachimg=8]
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Edges were formed with OF-1400. I usually use rail attachment as counterweight for better handling. After this step I sanded again with RS-2E sander. Started with P120 and ended with P400.
[attachimg=10]
Now is time for routing jobs. For aprons I used OF-2000 and CMS-OF module
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Cutting leg blanks with Kapex KS-120.
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Forming legs profiles with CMS-OF module and sliding table. There is a little bit unusual setup. I used second CMS miter gauge as fence. This setup allows to move fence far back. Big router bits have tendency to move piece of wood away.
[attachimg=14]
I glued small 3mm (1/8”) pads on outer sides of legs.
[attachimg=15]
Then setup MFS-400 template and grooved small recesses with 3mm (1/8”) straight bit.
[attachimg=16]
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Extra parts are always very helpful. Standard MFS kits have only two brackets, but three is more helpful
[attachimg=18]
After small assembly with T15+3 drill the table is ready.
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There is one tool that wasn’t showed on pictures, but did make excellent job. It’s CT-26 vacuum that collected dust and chips from all of my tools.
[attachimg=1]
I bought some beautiful walnut boards. First, I had to cut some waste, just to relive my plane.
[attachimg=2]
After planer I cut edges with my TS-55 saw again. With proper setup TS-55 makes perfect square glue-up ready edges. Then cut 24 domino mortises for better tabletop alignment.
[attachimg=3]
While glue on tabletop drying, I started to cut legs blanks. Board was planed up to 70mm (2 ¾”) first. For this task I had to use TS-75. 70mm is maximum cut depth for this beast. It cuts walnut without any fatigue, or slowness. As you can see it makes perfect, smooth cuts.
[attachimg=4]
[attachimg=5]
If you cut thick lumber, please don’t forget use clamps and anti-kickback stopper. (It goes with TS-55 and TS-75 saws)
[attachimg=6]
For smoothing table top I used RO-150FEQ and RS-2E sanders. Tell you the truth, RS-2E made most of sanding job. RO-150 just removed glue lines. On this stage I sanded up to P150 grit.
[attachimg=7]
Once everything is flat, it’s time for cutting tabletop to dimensions. TS-55, rails and good carpenters red square make it right.
[attachimg=8]
[attachimg=9]
Edges were formed with OF-1400. I usually use rail attachment as counterweight for better handling. After this step I sanded again with RS-2E sander. Started with P120 and ended with P400.
[attachimg=10]
Now is time for routing jobs. For aprons I used OF-2000 and CMS-OF module
[attachimg=11]
Cutting leg blanks with Kapex KS-120.
[attachimg=12]
[attachimg=13]
Forming legs profiles with CMS-OF module and sliding table. There is a little bit unusual setup. I used second CMS miter gauge as fence. This setup allows to move fence far back. Big router bits have tendency to move piece of wood away.
[attachimg=14]
I glued small 3mm (1/8”) pads on outer sides of legs.
[attachimg=15]
Then setup MFS-400 template and grooved small recesses with 3mm (1/8”) straight bit.
[attachimg=16]
[attachimg=17]
Extra parts are always very helpful. Standard MFS kits have only two brackets, but three is more helpful
[attachimg=18]
After small assembly with T15+3 drill the table is ready.
[attachimg=19]
[attachimg=20]
[attachimg=21]
[attachimg=22]
[attachimg=23]
There is one tool that wasn’t showed on pictures, but did make excellent job. It’s CT-26 vacuum that collected dust and chips from all of my tools.