Festool Track Saw and parallel guide for cabinet construction: Video

Great video. I am making a similar table, but I really like the cross cut setup you have. I like the stop blocks for repetitive cuts.

Thanks for posting!
 
Nice video, super cool setup. keep the vids coming.

You need to lose the socks and mandals, Jk.

Dave
 
Thanks for the movie. It's a good example of using the parallel guides with some nice ideas I'm going to borrow for my own setup.

However there is one small error at 3:20 seconds where you say the second PG should be tight to the material. That is the instinctive way to set them but not correct. I fell into that trap when I started using them.

They should in fact be loose against the material as it is the pads on the ends of the stops that register against the stock. If the guides are tight against your stock it makes registering more difficult and prone to binding the stock between the PG's specially if there is the slightest variation in width DAMHIKT  :-\ :)  [mad]

I have also added supports to the PG's themselves. These are good when using the guides on extra long settings.  500 mm to 900 mm you can see these in this thread
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-how-to/key-additions-to-the-festool-fs-pa-and-fs-pa-vl
 
Ron
I am very glad I subscribed go your YouTube channel. I may have missed this as I spend a lot of my time on JLC fourms and I know your feelings about posting there.

You sure have some great ideas. Thanks for sharing those with us.

Gary
 
Jerome,
I know there is supposed to be some spacing, but I have found that I can move quicker using the tabs I added and having the rails tighter. They are not wedged on but just snugged up. I can see the problem with material that is out of square, but at the same time having them a bit closer doesn't allow them to drop down on material that needs squaring. This is a help in my production as an auto check for square ends.

Thanks,
Ron
 
I told Ron about that before and don't forget, for those of us who like using the clamps with the parallel guides, you must leave a gap for the clamps to be inserted into the guide rail first.  Can't knock Ron for his preference.  [smile]
 
Dave Reinhold said:
Nice video, super cool setup. keep the vids coming.

You need to lose the socks and mandals, Jk.

Dave

I had to add socks it's almost November:) I might even have to look around and see if I have any long pants soon.

Ron
 
Ron,

Don't worry about what Dave has to say.  He goes bare foot to jobsites and everywhere.  Wait till tomorrow when he has to shovel snow bare foot.  [big grin]
 
Thanks for posting this Ron.  I see a couple ideas that will save me time.  Much appreciated.
 
crpaulk said:
I had to add socks it's almost November:) I might even have to look around and see if I have any long pants soon.

What are you talking about it's still in the eighties, and probably will be for another month. That's when it'll probably plunge to the high sixties, and we'll have to dig out our parkas.  [big grin]
 
Ron thanks. I love the clip idea. As yes the tend to drop down. Thanks for sharing
 
great vid ron.
i must do that mod to the parralel guides as i have been using 2 small spring clamp to hold up the end. that lip will be a big improvement
 
Great ideas Ron. Seeing this video prompted me to buy the UWB plans just to get a better look at the details.

The plans are beautiful, nice job both on the technical info and the overall aesthetics. Keep it coming!

RMW
 
Awesome video, Ron...thanks!  What a great idea and good execution.  [thumbs up]

Scot
 
Paul,

Great video.

I find that I can't trust the leading edge, which will be a factory edge.  So if I'm cross cutting case sides (usually 30 1/2" for me) I slide down past 30 1/2" by at least 1/8" and make the first cut then flip that piece, engage the stop and make the cut.  The new edge on the original piece can be trusted so then I can just slide down to the stop and cut the remaining two pieces.  Do you always trust your leading edge?  Do you test it with a square first?

Do you use software to develop your nesting plan?  If so which one?

Interesting that you crosscut moving the saw away from your fence.  Opposite from the MFT method where you are pushing into the fence.  Have you ever had any problems with smaller pieces moving away from the fence? 

It's not always possible but I like to set up a linear flow.  Sheet stack --> ripping station --> crosscut station.  Slide a sheet from the stack onto the ripping platform for long rips.  Slide the ripped half sheets (8'x23.25" or whatever) down to the crosscut station (MFT with extension)  Less material handling.

 
fshanno said:
Paul,

Great video. Thank You

I find that I can't trust the leading edge, which will be a factory edge.  So if I'm cross cutting case sides (usually 30 1/2" for me) I slide down past 30 1/2" by at least 1/8" and make the first cut then flip that piece, engage the stop and make the cut.  The new edge on the original piece can be trusted so then I can just slide down to the stop and cut the remaining two pieces.  Do you always trust your leading edge? So far no OOS plywood. Do you test it with a square first? I use to, but after checking about a 1000 sheets, I gave up.

Do you use software to develop your nesting plan?  If so which one? I don't have any cabinet software. I use SketchUp for design and planning. Note, I am a home builder/carpenter that also makes a few cabinets, not a production cabinet maker.

Interesting that you crosscut moving the saw away from your fence.  Opposite from the MFT method where you are pushing into the fence.  Have you ever had any problems with smaller pieces moving away from the fence?  None. My bench is 4' wide so I need fence on the side I am working on.

It's not always possible but I like to set up a linear flow.  Sheet stack --> ripping station --> crosscut station.  Slide a sheet from the stack onto the ripping platform for long rips.  Slide the ripped half sheets (8'x23.25" or whatever) down to the crosscut station (MFT with extension)  Less material handling. I only have one station so I complete ripping then go to cross cutting. If I had a shop, I would have 10' sliding table saw and 5x10 C&C. My whole setup is portable over production, so I just try to be as efficient as I can with what I have.

Sounds like you have a nice set up.

Ron
 
Back
Top