Festool Track Saw, Track Issue

[Birdhunter]

If you know someone with a high quality table saw, making glue ready cuts is a snap. I have the TS55, rails, Betterly connector, etc and use them to break down sheet goods, but I do all the high accuracy cutting on a table saw.

 

[Bob D.]

[size=14pt]
Agree with need to use a straight edge when joining rails. I leave a 1-2mm gap between the two rails.

However there is another consideration. How long after cutting, did you lay out boards for joining? The release of tension when ripping the boards can cause movement.

Some on the FOG but not me yet, have used  SRSemenza's technique of laying the rail edge along between the edge of two boards so the blade will simultaneously cut both edges. Thus when ripping, any inconsistencies are shared uniformly by both edges.

Old post I know, but isn't that more or less what is known as 'kerfing in' and been used in the past with hand saws. Not taking anything away from the idea of using the technique with a track saw, that is a great idea.

 

[Travisaward]

Mario Turcot-  I have checked and there is no play on any of the rails. In fact it may be on the tighter side since I want to make sure there is no play. 
Birdhunter- I suppose you are right. I bought the TS55 to straight line rip one edge on some rough cut lumber and for that it does an excellent job. From there I can take it to the table saw and cut it down to useable pieces.  The tools are on the very expensive side and I was hopeful you could get straight glue ready cuts right from the track saw.

 

[semenza]

[member=68106]Travisaward[/member]  Is the problem with the tracks aligning in a straight line when connected? Or that the saw is at a different bevel on different tracks?

    If different bevel .................... unless the wood surface is dead flat any variance in the wood surface will cause the rail to tilt and cause  slightly  varying bevels on the edge. Hardly noticeable for most purposes but frequently not good enough for edge joining. Hence the existence of jointers. But this (see link) method works great for jointing with a track saw.

        http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-how-to/edge-jointing-a-countertop-with-the-ts75-(or-ts55)/msg285830/#msg285830

Seth

 

[Birdhunter]

I think a track saw excels for the tasks for which it was designed. But, precision joinery is very demanding and, perhaps, not the forte of that tool.

Table saws, jointers, and planers are my tools of choice for making gap free joints.

 

[Travisaward]

Seth- the problem was the bevel not being consistently 90° and that method you shared makes a lot of sense.  I don't have access to a big jointer for jointing the edges so I'm left with the TS55 and a 1950s Delta unisaw to get glue ready joints. I may end up trying that method on a Walnut table top build I have coming up.

 

[Sparktrician]

Here you go http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-how-to/edge-jointing-a-countertop-with-the-ts75-(or-ts55)/msg285830/#msg285830

Seth

I used a very similar technique when cutting the boards for a tabletop with my TS 55.  The finished joints were so tight that light would not pass through them anywhere.  All boards were first surface planed to a specific thickness, then ripped with the TS 55.  All were cross-cut over-length.  The boards were subsequently screwed down to cross-slats while the joints to be refined were held as closely as possible before being jointed with the TS 55.  The jointed boards were then dominoed and glued together.  Once the clamps were removed after gluing, the tabletop was cut to dimension, edge-routed and sanded before finishing.