festool trion jigsaw

The method that Shane and Brian are showing is one way to adjust the guides. The opposite way is more foolproof...

Do everything the same except where Brian tightens the guides on the blades with the blade back try this:

  • Push the blade all the way forward.
  • Tighten the guides until the blade is stuck in the forward position.
  • Loosen the guides until the blade just moves backward.

It's the same principle but requires less finesse and no finger tension on the blade at all.

Tom
 
Surf,

As I said earlier, I don't own a Trion. But, if the pendulum action on a Festool is the same as on any other jigsaw, then basically it allows for quicker cutting, at the expense of the quality of the cut. So, if you're doing fine, intricate work and want nice clean edges, then set it on 0. If you're cutting up scraps so that they'll fit in the bin better, put it on 3.

1 and 2 are somewhere in between. [tongue]
 
Are you sure you want to cut those pieces out with a jigsaw?  Find someone with a CNC.  I don't think it's cheating if all you do is replace the jigsaw work.  Sounds like you could pay for someone to cut it with the savings in blades.
 
That is one reason why I sold my Trion and picked up the new Bosch jigsaw.

The blade thickness adjustment is automatic - a lot speedier if you are changing blade types often.

Yes - the Trion had better dust collection, but with the shroud attached, you could barely see the cutline all that well, so that negates the value of the dust collection.

Nice stuff!

JT
 
Ok Guys,

Sorry for late response, been away for 4 days.

Ok, product code for Festool blades i have been using S 50/1,4 K  (T 101 AO)

Some great points made earlier, havent seen the vid yet, will check it tomoz.

JT, i am not changing the blades as i need a super clean cut on the bottom too as i dont want to start sanding the reverse side too.
I am surprised to hear someone got a Bosch instead of a Festool, i would imagine the more expensive machine being superior (not slagging Bosch, just assuming you get what you pay for ? i am from a sheet metal background, so woodworking tools are fairly new to me at this level.

fshanno, as for a cnc router to do my work, well i want all my work to be handcrafted, and i got a quote from a guy with a cnc router to do some simple blanks, no intricate work at all, soooo expensive i would of had to triple my price to make any dosh !!
Also i dont shift large numbers at all, and each one is different too.
I can start and finish ANY of my work so far in 1 day now.

Tom, i will check the vid, and then try your blade setup suggestion, i understand where your coming from.

Festool got back to me, possibility of a service engineer to come out to me when on his/her rounds maybe ??

Thanks again fella's so far.

 
surfmirrors said:
Ok, product code for Festool blades i have been using S 50/1,4 K   (T 101 AO)
Click to expand...

Designed for scrolling and tight curves, this is probably the most delicate and easily-broken of the Festool selection of blades. I see that the brochure states "Work without orbiting action".

[attachimg=1]

In other words, for this blade the pendulum action on this jigsaw should always be set to the rear-most position, marked "0". The following photo shows the rear-most "0" position clearly, because the lever is moved fully forward to the "3" position. You need to make sure that the green lever covers the "0".

[attachimg=2]

So that people don't start worrying, can you confirm that you've always used the saw with the pendulum lever in the "0" position with that blade?

I am surprised to hear someone got a Bosch instead of a Festool,
Click to expand...

The Bosch 1590EVS/1591EVS jigsaw with its "Precision Control System" for supporting the blade, is generally very highly regarded, and many members here prefer it to the Festool Trion.

However my own experience with the UK equivalent (the Bosch GST135) was bad, with vibration, ineffective soft-start, and damaged blades. I returned the machine, and since the Trion was too expensive for me at that time, I got the DeWalt DW331, with which I am very happy.

See I Need a Jigsaw (Pendulum Saw) and Jigsaw purchase -- please push me over the edge!! for just two threads on this much-discussed subject.

Forrest

 
Forrest
thanks for the link to the blade guide  I like the fact that it has a column that references the Bosch blade reference #.
Craig
 
Hi Guys,

Shane i watched the video just now, gonna set up my carbide guide tomoz.
Forrest, i can't say for sure what my pendulum settings where in the past, i think a bit of them all as i was sooo frustrated i tried em all !!!

Anyway, as i have taken on-board all the comments, i haven't broke a blade this week , hooray.

Anyboby else out there who would love a jigsaw that had it's blade right out front so you didn't have to crane your neck to follow the blade/pencil line ??
And has anyone else got a missus at home who thinks you are an anorak surfing 'tool sites' ?
Bless her, she thought i was surfing porn all the time !!

 
Have you contacted Festool UK to see if they can offer assistance or advice?  They are in a far better position to help troubleshoot and diagnose the cause of the blade breaks.
 
Hi Shane,

I got a reply on here saying maybe they will send someone over,.
broke about 20 blades now...
 
Those blades (High Carbon Steel) are going to heat up and weaken, get brittle and break. Those types of blades are cheap and designed for occasional use. Try a bi-metal blade. You might get a bit of burning but it will last a lot longer. You could cut a car in half with a bi-metal blade.  They do tend to be flexible so you can't force them like a hardened steel blade though. You may need to make relief cuts.

I'd be tempted to try these

SSBB-BMS-410

from this catalog.

http://www.icscuttingtools.com/catalog/page_323.pdf

Not sure if it will fit though. The BOSH fans can confirm. I only do copes with my trion and use whatever is lying around.
 
I got a call from a Festool rep yesterday, may meet later today if our schedules allow....
Chas, not sure if the Festool recommended blades are "cheap" as you mention, i dont think any Festool products are cheap !!! I need the narrow blades and a clean cut, so will see what shape the bi-metal blades come in.
I will let you all know the results after i rip down some 18mm with the rep.

Cheers
 
Hi guys,

Festool sent the rep down yesterday.
We discussed what i was doing etc, and tried some other blades on 18mm ply.
There is no alternative blade from what i am using for tight radius work, but i can use another blade for 80% of what i am doing.
The quick blade change facility makes this easy enough.

3 of us discussed all aspects of what i am doing, and it wasn't until now that i realized the blades were breaking on a straight cut, and very early too.
It's bloody freezing in my converted pigsty, and i think that as the blades are very cold and then heat up very quickly when used the breakages may be a result of
acute temperature change too ??

I will try a bimetal blade soon and see what happens....
 
cant remeber which blades as it has been about 3 years since i used one. I found them slower cutting and not as good a finish as the lennox blades for the price.
 
Deansocial said:
cant remeber which blades as it has been about 3 years since i used one. I found them slower cutting and not as good a finish as the lennox blades for the price.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the clarification.

Forrest

 
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