Festools for building strip-built kayak?

[Stan Tillinghast]

I'm thinking about building a kayak, using the strip-building method. This consists of multiple long, 3/16 inch thick x about 3/4 inch wide strips of softwood (usually cedar), with a bead on one edge and matching cove on the other.
One can buy such strips pre-made, but it seems to me that the Festool ATS55 with a VERY long guide (could be up to 20 feet long!!) to cut off 3/16 inch strips from 3/4 thick lumber, then use the Festool router with the guide to make the bead and cove edges. A lot safer and probably more accurate than trying to manhandle long strips on a table saw.

Does anyone have any experience at strip-building kayaks, in particular using the method I have in mind?

The strips don't really have to be the full length of the boat, as they can be joined without the joint showing if it's on the hull, and even on the side would not be so noticeable.

Any thoughts would be helpful. This is an ambitious project, expected to take maybe 150 hours plus, most of which is dealing with sanding, the fiberglass, epoxy, and varnish.

 

[Eli]

Hey Stan
I think I've got one of these in my future as well. I might try a TS55 for the rips.  I think instead of using a router freehand I'm going to use a table or better yet, I saw method where the router was clamped right side up on a block with a groove the size of, in this case a piece of molding, with a hole bored with a forstner bit for the router bit. The piece was fed in one end, captive all the way, past the router bit. No hands anywhere near cutting surfaces. I have "The Strip Built Sea Kayak" by Nick Schade.

 

[Corwin]

There are many books on the strip method of building kayaks.  The book above by Nick Schade is one of my favorites -- especially his thoughts/methods on epoxy.  The design you choose is very important if you do plan on giving her a paddling when she's done.  Some other designers offer plans with little to no rocker -- not a good choice at all.  And many designers offer plans that may be too narrow for you.  Choose wisely.  If you can, try before you build. 

The Festools will also come in handy in building your strong back.  I would suggest you consider using 1/4" strips (larger if overall length is much over 18 feet) as you will be planing off a bit of material.  And the core thickness will affect strength.  You also do not need to have full length strips.  It does help to use full length strips at the sheer, but not required.  Shorter lengths can be joined with either butt or scarf joints -- not too much of an issue with strength as compared to core thickness and your choice of layup.

And you will most likely have to adjust your time line expectations...  Good Luck!

 

[Eli]

I read a site that suggested 3/16" were much easier.

 

[Corwin]

Easy is not the important issue.  You want a boat that is both strong and light.  You will be removing a bit of that 3/16" of wood to obtain a nice shape.  If your boat is too thin you would need to add additional glass to correct.  That will usually add more weight that having a little thicker core.  If you are looking for a racing kayak the 3/16" material might be desired -- just not the best for your first boat building project.

 

[Drewskeez]

I've Built several strip canoes...pre-festool ownership.  The longest I have built was 16' and always used 1/4" strips.  The easiest way I have found to cut them is have someone else do it.  I would order "X" amount of clear strips from a local sawmill.  It was always easier than staning behind the table saw.

 

[Eli]

You might find these interesting. I'm no scientist, but I read in the results all materials to be roughly the same strength for normal (not failure load) use. Strongest were those samples using Aerofab and Kevlar. In the conclusions graph notice sample A and sample E, both glassed both sides with 4 oz. performed equally, despite one being 1/4" and one being 3/16".

So all other things being equal, I would decide to go with 3/16" strips if it was easier to construct. I'll try and also post the website that claimed it was if I can find it.
http://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/Building/Testing/index.htmlhttp://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/Building/Testing/photos.html

 

[greg mann]

I have not built any cedar stripped kayaks but have built several skin-on-frame models using the traditional Greenland and Aleut techniques. These call for 1/4 x 1 1/4 wide mortices 3/4 deep in the gunwales for the ribs. We made them by drilling holes on 1 inch centers and digging out the rest with a knife; the traditional way. It took all day to do the thirty or so needed for ribs. A Domino could have done them all in 5 minutes. Of course my boatbuilding mentor would have chased me out of his shop for even suggesting it. It was a big leap for him to allow the use of a cordless drill. We would sometimes break for lunch and he would tell the class, "What you did with the drill this morning would have taken an Inuk 3 weeks by hand." In the end, he knew he had to allow some modernization into the process. He would not have many folks who could spend their whole summer in a kayak building class.

 

[Eli]

A domino'ed Baidarka......... hmmm....

 

[Loren Hedahl]

For sawing thin strips wouldn't a band saw be appropriate?

The advantages would be:

1) less wood turned to sawdust due to thinner kerf blade
2) rougher surface that should give better adherence for the resin in laying up the fiberglass
3) bandsaw fence would maintain accurate final thickness
4) no kickback or other safety concerns

I've never built a strip canoe, but have made cabinet doors for a RV using thin strips of redwood as a panel in an ash frame.  Small gaps between each strip allow the cabinet to "ventilate" which is an advantage in a boat or RV.  A three tooth per inch 3/8 inch wide blade on a 14 inch bandsaw cut the strips about as fast as you could feed them.

 

[Tinker]

Hey Stan
I think I've got one of these in my future as well. I might try a TS55 for the rips.  I think instead of using a router freehand I'm going to use a table or better yet, I saw method where the router was clamped right side up on a block with a groove the size of, in this case a piece of molding, with a hole bored with a forstner bit for the router bit. The piece was fed in one end, captive all the way, past the router bit. No hands anywhere near cutting surfaces. I have "The Strip Built Sea Kayak" by Nick Schade.

Now we know how you made it from California to Down Under
Tinker

 

[Eli]

Hey Stan
I think I've got one of these in my future as well. I might try a TS55 for the rips.  I think instead of using a router freehand I'm going to use a table or better yet, I saw method where the router was clamped right side up on a block with a groove the size of, in this case a piece of molding, with a hole bored with a forstner bit for the router bit. The piece was fed in one end, captive all the way, past the router bit. No hands anywhere near cutting surfaces. I have "The Strip Built Sea Kayak" by Nick Schade.

Now we know how you made it from California to Down Under
Tinker

I wish. I definitely would have prefered it to the 15 hr plane ride with two kids under three.