Which dust extractor for lead paint window restoration

[pgreenx]

I am starting a project to renovate the 100 year old wood double hung windows in my house.  Plan is to work in garage (separate building from my house).
I will be using an ultra violet lamp to soften paint and scrape the majority of paint away, followed by sanding the remaining (if any) paint, primer etc,.  I will also be using a p100 mask.

I prefer the smallest extractor for ease of use and happy to change bags more frequently.  Will be used for odd jobs after this project which will take about a yr to complete.

Questions are as follows:
1) do I need an H level extractor vs L or M if used in my garage with door open and p100 mask?
2) Which extractor should I buy?  happy to spend a bit more since im saving $60k on replacement windows. 
3) bonus question: which sander should I buy for this project (ie narrow2-3 inch window sashes and window pane grills)

Thank you

 

[timwors]

Strictly speaking, sanding toxic materials would need H class dust extraction. It's a bit subjective if you actually need this in your particular case, given that you will be in a well ventilated/outdoor space and your expected quantities of dust are low.

Although H class extractors are expensive you might be able to get a decent second hand price for it afterwards, and then spend the money on a more standard M or even L class dust extractor where there are lots more size options available for more general-purpose long term use.

For the actual sanding, I would recommend the Rotex 90 for windows of this size, as the 90mm pads work really well, you can use rotex mode with a coarse grit to remove thick layers of paint, the dust extraction is excellent, and the delta attachment is a nice bonus for detailed sanding.

 

[mino]

[member=82943]pgreenx[/member]
What country are you located in? There are different options offered on different markets and this is a global discussion forum.

For hobby use, with Festool, there is not really a need to get the "H class extractor" as the vac bodies are the same across the range. Only the flow-sensor presence/behaviour and the filters are different.

A casual CTL/CT 26 with (replaced) H-Class main filter and a pack of H-class bags will work filter the same as full H-class. Just will not warn the user in case of a blockage etc. Filtration itself depends on the bags and /less so/ the main filter.

Me being technical, understanding the main filter is really only a backup, I would even say getting a pack of H-class bags and using them with the "normal" main filter will work (almost) the same filtration-wise and cost significantly less. Again, talking purely hobby use and the actual health risks mitigation objective.

Professional crew would need certified kit, a different discussion entirely. More legal than technical to boot..

 

[pgreenx]

Thank you for your response.  I didn't not know I was on the global forum
I am located in the USA
The additional research I did last night is as follows. hope you can confirm this:

1) L,M and H are (I think) Euro designations and "Hepa" is used in USA
2) HEPA is at least equivalent to the Euro "H"
3) from reading your reply, it sounds like I also need an equivalent dust bag that matches the filter. So in other words, if I have an H filter I need an "H" bag (vs a "M" bag)

I am a DIY homeowner but want to take my lead paint windows seriously

Hope this makes sense and thanks again
Thank you again

 

[mino]

As for bags, Festool makes two "levels" for the big DEs:

The M-class+ complaint for CTLs and CTMs, these also ship in US for the CTs. They are some of the best bags on the market and exceed M class specs. /These bags design/material precede those standards being introduced./
The H-class+ complaint for CTHs. Certified for asbestos & co in Europe.

About HEPA versus H-class. You cannot really compare these standards (directly). European vac "classes" include things in the standard which go beyond filtration. Things that should ensure no contaminant leaks or that the filtration is maintained even as the bag fills up etc. It is an overall safety rating as opposed to HEPA addressing just one single parameter. There is a reason the H-class main filters look very different to a "HEPA" rated filter sold in the US..

If I were to rate the Festool filters by filtration, I would go like: Standard HP (PTFE, for AC use, NAINA) < Standard (paper) < HEPA HP (PTFE, for AC use) < H class (paper).

The HEPA and H classprices are similar, but the HEPA is PTFE plastic filter which is usually about 2x as expensive as equivalent filtration paper filter. I am not sure one can make workable H-class from PTFE actually. If so, it would cost even more .. and be pointless as AutoClean cannot be used with hazardous stuff.

---
For your context, all Festool vacs have bags and main filters equivalent to at-least "M-class", actually better. Even those vacs designed as "L class" are such only because they do not have the mandatory air-flow sensor.

I asked because I am not sure H-class bags are available in the US. I am referring to these:https://www.festool.de/zubehoer/saugen/filter-und-filtersaecke/filtersaecke/497541---fis-cth-263

The challenge is that the heavy lifting is done always by the bag. The HEPA filter helps a bit compared to a "normal" M-class filter, but it is really just a safety net. The main filter is not meant or designed to get clogged by capturing (much) dust that gets past the respective M-class/HEPA bag. And there are no "HEPA bags" around ...

 

[mino]

Now, all of above said. In reality you should be fine with the "normal" Festool bags.

Just place the vac somewhere so that you are not breathing its exhaust air. I would also not waste money on HEPA filters if you are not buying them for AC use (as FUSA does not seem to offer non-HEPA-certified HP filters).

A hobby user is IMO better off spending the dough on additional D36 hose to be able to place the vac out of reach. Be it 3.5 m or 5 m or even the 7 m one. Those one can leverage in other situations unlike overly obsessing with bags and filtration. Unless one is renovating lead-painted furniture in a cellar ..

ADD .. or buying a $20 room fan and setting up such the air moves out befoe you breathe it.

Both of these "simple" options done properly will give better results than the best filtration can.

 

[cpw]

In the US, L/M/H isn't a thing.  You should be fine with a CT26 or even a CT MIDI, because you said that you wanted "smaller".

The Rotex is a good sander, they remove materially aggressively.  If you get the 90, it has a delta pad option which might be useful if you need to get into small spaces.

You might be restoring the windows in your garage, but you'll also be making a mess in the house to do the jambs or at the very least trim and disassembly.

Since you are the homeowner presumably in an owner-occupied residence, you don't have to do the same things as an RRP contractor - but if you want to be safe you might take an EPA training course so you know what the proper procedures are.