Fill in the blank: I wish Festool made a ______!

[EWTHeckman]

Buy one get one free coupon  [scared]

[thumbs up]

 

 

[CutsTwice]

I would REALLY like a Centrotec nut driver set in Metric. 5mm through at least 14 mm. I would pay a good price for it too.
Metric and Imperial would be very nice as well.

If this has already been brought up, I apologize. The thread is just to long to read through the whole thing.

 

[AlexThePalex]

I would REALLY like a Centrotec nut driver set in Metric. 5mm through at least 14 mm. I would pay a good price for it too.
Metric and Imperial would be very nice as well.

Well, there is this adapter in both 1/4'' and 3/8'' so you can mount any nut driver you want:

[attachimg=1]

Isn't it sold in the states?

 

[CutsTwice]

Yup, we can get 'em here and I have them both. I use them quite a bit and love them, but a matching set of nut drivers would just be awesome! I haven't figured out  a slick way to fit a socket set in a systainer so nut drivers were my next idea.

 

[woodguy7]

I have the Centrotec set with the socket set.

 

[ShawnRussell]

... made a module so I could turn my cordless drill into a corded one, and it would also work on the carvex when it is released in the US.

C15/18 impact driver
and a hammer drill.

 

[Burchie]

coupling to allow the Crown Stop Base Extensions (494369) to be attached to and used in conjunction with the Kapex Extensions

 

[ART at WORK]

... made a module so I could turn my cordless drill into a corded one, and it would also work on the carvex when it is released in the US.

C15/18 impact driver
and a hammer drill.

I was just thinking today about a module that would slip on to a cordless drill or carvex.
I was looking at stuff on Ebay and some guy was selling drills and a Carvex without the batteries. (He sells the charger and batteries separately)
That's when I thought we need an attachment to connect it to the mains.
I cant decide whether to get a cordless or mains Carvex this would solve my dilemma.
Can we have it before October please.

 

[GPowers]

That's when I thought we need an attachment to connect it to the mains.
I cant decide whether to get a cordless or mains Carvex this would solve my dilemma.
Can we have it before October please.

Plus one on this. The ability to run then C15 on a battery or 110volts would be great. I have one of these adapters for my iCom radio. The module replaces the battery and allows you to connect the iCom radio to the 12 volt socket in the car.  Not the same but the same idea on 110 volts.

 

[Roseland]

I'd really like a chuck to fit my CXS that took standard hex bits without having to use an adapter.

Andrew

 

[Tom the Remodeler]

... made a module so I could turn my cordless drill into a corded one, and it would also work on the carvex when it is released in the US.

C15/18 impact driver
and a hammer drill.

DeWalt used to offer an adapter like this for their old 24v NiCad line. I was told it was for rescue crews, one guy would run out with his cordless 24v recip saw and start cutting, while another would get a generator or inverter running and start stringing extension cord.

 

[bonesbr549]

Oscilating spindle sander.  I know the DC would be great. 

 

[andvari]

A universal locking chuck for the drills - accepting Centrotec, wire detent and ball detent bits.

 

[Jesse Cloud]

Oscilating spindle sander.  I know the DC would be great. 

+1 on this.  There are two levels out there: 1)"darn near trash" that sells for $100 or so at the big boxes and 2)industrial models that sell for $1,000 or so from the big boys.  I think there is a good market here for something in the middle!

 

[Nick C]

Rubber or soft plastic clamp pads to slip over the metal clamping arm on the Festool standard and quick-release clamps. Then they wold be more useful for general light-duty clamping tasks. Although the clamping foot is padded, it's not always possible to orient the clamp so that the padded foot is on the finish surface, owing to interference from the clamp screw. For exmple, when clamping a workpiece to a drill press table, the only practical orientation is to have the clamping foot under the table, which puts the unpadded arm on top, in contact with the workpiece.

 

[ART at WORK]

Rubber or soft plastic clamp pads to slip over the metal clamping arm on the Festool standard and quick-release clamps. Then they wold be more useful for general light-duty clamping tasks. Although the clamping foot is padded, it's not always possible to orient the clamp so that the padded foot is on the finish surface, owing to interference from the clamp screw. For exmple, when clamping a workpiece to a drill press table, the only practical orientation is to have the clamping foot under the table, which puts the unpadded arm on top, in contact with the workpiece.

Nice idea,
I remember seeing someone suggesting a length of plastic tubing to slip on to the metal arm for this purpose.
A quick and cheep solution. Festool would probably charge 15 bucks a go.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Rubber or soft plastic clamp pads to slip over the metal clamping arm on the Festool standard and quick-release clamps. Then they wold be more useful for general light-duty clamping tasks. Although the clamping foot is padded, it's not always possible to orient the clamp so that the padded foot is on the finish surface, owing to interference from the clamp screw. For exmple, when clamping a workpiece to a drill press table, the only practical orientation is to have the clamping foot under the table, which puts the unpadded arm on top, in contact with the workpiece.

Nice idea,
I remember seeing someone suggesting a length of plastic tubing to slip on to the metal arm for this purpose.
A quick and cheep solution. Festool would probably charge 15 bucks a go.

I'm someone. [tongue] 

 

[peter halle]

Rubber or soft plastic clamp pads to slip over the metal clamping arm on the Festool standard and quick-release clamps. Then they wold be more useful for general light-duty clamping tasks. Although the clamping foot is padded, it's not always possible to orient the clamp so that the padded foot is on the finish surface, owing to interference from the clamp screw. For exmple, when clamping a workpiece to a drill press table, the only practical orientation is to have the clamping foot under the table, which puts the unpadded arm on top, in contact with the workpiece.

Nice idea,
I remember seeing someone suggesting a length of plastic tubing to slip on to the metal arm for this purpose.
A quick and cheep solution. Festool would probably charge 15 bucks a go.

I'm someone. [tongue] 

Hey someone!

Welcome to the FOG  [poke]

Peter

 

[jacko9]

I wish that Festool would make a sander with the capability to use different diameter sanding heads from the small RO 90 3.5 inch right up to the 6 inch diameter of the larger machines.  A universal sander with a variable speed motor to provide the ideal sanding speed for the size head selected.

 

[Kev]

How about a CT unit with the boom arm support telescoping up out of the chassis itself. 4 telescoping sections on a CT36 chassis should do it. Vacuum and power in the tube. Short head piece (say 30cm) so that you wouldn't need a clumsy outer frame for support. Then you'd only need a short hose and a short pluggit at your table (say 2m).

Another potential ... Alter the WCR so that one of the supports is a hollow boom arm ...

I love Festool and I'd like some overhead Vac capability (needs to be mobile for my workspace) - but I look at the Ikea quality tubing exoskeleton and inwardly groan. C'mon Festool - you can too so much better that that clumsy boom arm. I know it fits a couple of different model Vacs and you can still snug the Vac under the bench ... but I just saw a picture of one of the forum members with a CT and boom arm in the back of his truck and thought "YUCK".