Fill in the blank: I wish Festool made a ______!

[ChuckM]

I don't think they would release it even if they found a way as it would be affecting the Df700 sales. The DF 700 is not a solution to me because I don't build doors even though I can afford a DF700. I don't want a tool sitting in my shop used only once a year or even two. I use the DF500 in 70% of my projects (cabinets, edge jointing, etc.).

Same reason why Festool does not sell the smaller bits for the DF700 so it can be used to cutter smaller mortises like a DF500.

 

[morts10n]

A small left blade circular saw with dust collection

 

[Svar]

I wish Festool could come up with a conversion or add-on kit that would allow the DF 500 to cut thicker/deeper mortises...

The amount of stress the mechanism can take is the limitation.
You can add an off-the-shelf male to female threaded adapter to make bit longer, but plunge travel remains the same. No add on will fix it.

 

[ChuckM]

The limitation thing is certainly true. What we don't know is what that limit is vs the current DF500 configuration. May be the DF500 has the spare capacity, may be not. Like many problems resolved before, some creative solutions are obvious (but not necessarily to the mass) and some are not. I don't expect a too-obvious workaround that would meet my wish.

 

[Kodi Crescent]

A trim router intended for CNC operation:

- narrow (~43mm diameter like the Kress 800-FME)
- cylindrical body which is easily clamped
- large collet, at least up to 1/2" (ER-20 would be nice, as opposed to something proprietary) --- the largest collet option for the smaller/lighter trim routers seems to be a 3/8"
- brushless motor with variable speed --- something like the 10,000--30,000 RPM the Makita affords would be fine, though the higher speeds aren't needed, and lower ones, if they could be achieved w/ suitable torque, would be welcome
- as powerful as one can get out of a 15A 110V outlet in the U.S. --- I'd be fine w/ using a dedicated circuit

Mafell Milling Motor FM 1000.  1000W.  Only takes up to 8mm bits though.

 

[Alan B]

I wish Festool made a better switch for the Domino DF500 to make the locking-on action smoother.

 

[JPCleary]

Vecturo dust extraction

 

[neeleman]

Your wishes are heard by Festool.

 

[DeformedTree]

Systainer based cord real, basically so when you are switching tools, moving the vac, or go from tool to clean up mode the cord gets retracted back in.  I'm finding the cord to be a pain during switching around. And with the cyclone on top, there isn't a good place to toss the cord.  If it could fit under the cyclone with a jumper to the vac and then you pull the cord out as you need to work.

 

[OWKFEST]

I have been organizing my tools starting in the early 80’s. My shop is a small space and organization is important. I had several Rubbermaid tool boxes that at the time worked. This one pictured I use for my electric tools its about the size of a SYS 2. I like this box as a step stool. First Festool was TS55 in 2000, been trading out and up in some cases to Festools as needed.

 

[Bob D.]

Systainer based cord real, basically so when you are switching tools, moving the vac, or go from tool to clean up mode the cord gets retracted back in.  I'm finding the cord to be a pain during switching around. And with the cyclone on top, there isn't a good place to toss the cord.  If it could fit under the cyclone with a jumper to the vac and then you pull the cord out as you need to work.

And maybe have another outlet for plugging in a battery charger.

 

[Bob D.]

A handsaw that cuts the exact width as a ts55. I had to finish some angled plunge cuts into a corner and the thin blade on my pull saw likes to go off on it's own course. Bonus points if it cuts on the pull stroke and fits in the systainer. limited edition is fine.

What if you shimmed the thickness of a pull saw with some magnetic sheet. You could place it on either side depending on which side of the saw kerf you needed to follow. Haven't tried it myself I just thought of it while reading your post. You can get magnetic sheet material in fairly large sizes, I don't know if the thickness would make up the entire difference between the TS saw blade and your pull saw but it might be worth a look.

 

[kevkrieg]

An adaptor plate to use the DF500 with the LR32 track.

 

[mostlylab]

I understand the currrent Centrotec chuck lets the shank end of Festool drill and driver bits insert deep into the collet of the drill.  This is extra stability and we understand why the design is the way it is.  My issue is that Festool is not currently offering imperial sized drill bits.  If Festool continuously offered imperial sized drill bits,  I would not be posting this "wish".  But they don't that I can see.  (They have in the past in installer's sets I believe (now discontinued). And those folks are out of luck when they are looking for replacements).

Standard 1/4" hex shank bits, those with a dentent groove, have a shortened shank from the groove to the very end of the shank (compared to Festool shanks).  It would be more of a challenge to have a quick style chuck hold these shanks secure, but certainly not impossible to design a Centrotec type chuck to work with these ubiquitous shanked bits in north America.

Even if a chuck just allowed a magnetic hold, with no lock on a detent groove, I think it would be well received.  I get that Festool probably wants every shank end you stick into a Centrotec chuck to lock in positively, so a magnetic only hold method may not ever fly with them (and inserting a 1/4" hex shank direct into the collet of the drill's nose spindle works, but it's not elegant by any measure).  But we do know that the collet of the drills can accept the 1/4" size hex shanks, it's the Centrotec chuck design that keeps us from inserting 1/4" shanks into the chuck.

Using imperial drill bits with 1/4" hex shanks (that you can find in every home center in America) in Festool's included 1/4" hex shank bit holder that comes with their drills can induce inaccuracy to one's drilling results due to the increase in length and the extra play in a second "connection".  So please Festool, either sell imperial sized twist drill bits (at least) for your Centrotec chuck, or make and sell a Centrotec type chuck accessory to work with standard 1/4" hex shank tooling found in north America / USA.

We want an easy way to drill imperial sized holes and then fast change to drive a screw, while remaining as close to the nose of the drill as possible for accuracy's sake.

Thanks for listening.
(And if you're a Festool drill owner and would like to see an accessory Centrotec chuck take 1/4" hex shanks directly, speak your wishes to Festool.)

 

[FestitaMakool]

Agreed..
Centrotec is a nice idea, but falls in on its own. To use an adaptor for using world wide 1/4” hex bits, and second to exchange to a Jacobs Chuck for using standard drill bit. No..
Centrotec should have accepted standard hex bit in the first place. The next, so I see may come, is the that the impact driver should use std. hex bit, as also the contact area of bits through Centrotec chuck is too small, I bet the bit would brake or deform otherwise.
Another thing, me and several user of Festool drills, who are used to, and still use drills from all other manufacturers, end up dropping Festool drills to the floor - gripping the drill by the chuck (Centrotec) to change bit... [blink] Good thing I have wooden floors..
[wink]
Sooo, a redesigned Centrotec is welcome. As runout is minimal, bit changes fast, and it is narrow. But so is the ones that comes with (my) Makita impacts, amongst others. Here the bit sits deep, so std. short bit wont do here either...

 

[TinyShop]

[member=71847]mostlylab[/member] - if you are unaware you can at least go from 1/8" up to 3/8" (and 1/64" on either side of each) using Snappy's Centrotec-compatible drill bit holders/adapters:
https://www.snappytools.com/product-category/festool-centrotec-compatible-accessories

A far cry from comprehensive, I realize, but nonetheless a meaningful workaround. Buy your US-made jobber-length drill bits in bulk from a supplier like Victor Machinery Exchange (buy a lot, their minimum shipping charge is terrible) and always have extras on hand for when you break or dull a bit.

 

[mostlylab]

[member=64030]TinyShop[/member]  - Thanks for the lead on the aftermarket drill bits to work in the Centrotec chuck.  Much appreciated!

 

[TinyShop]

[member=64030]TinyShop[/member]  - Thanks for the lead on the aftermarket drill bits to work in the Centrotec chuck.  Much appreciated!

[member=71847]mostlylab[/member] - I forgot to mention that Snappy also makes a locking bit holder that's Centrotec compatible designed to accept standard 1/4" hex-shanked tooling. So, can you have your cake and eat it too!

Snappy 90011

 

[Nic Rhodes]

I have always wanted a battery operated trim router using the same batteries as their sanders (and the compatible mains unit). It does not need to be a '18v 5.2ah' system, the small 'round' batteries would be fine.

 

[mrboult]

Feel like I might have been here before to say this, but damn festool, give us a USB charger/outlet device to clip on to our batteries !

Every other manufacturer has them, over no doubt they’re cheap as chips to make. Designed and made in China is fine, I just care that you think they’re safe. Let’s get it done, I feel like I’m being punished for having festool as my main battery platform. It would be so easy, and every single one of your 18v customers has a phone that could probably benefit from this product! PLEASE.