Fine Woodworking article on Wax finishes

[ear3]

Current issue of Fine Woodworking has a test of finishing waxes.  Two surprises for me.  First is the author's selection of Renaissance Wax as the best of the lot (he tried at least a dozen).  That's what I use when I do a wax finish -- but I came to it not after extensive testing, but based upon a recommendation when I was looking for one -- so I'm "pleasantly" surprised that I am using a top product.  Second surprise was how highly rated Johnson Paste Wax was, despite being a mass market product available at any Home Depot.  I use the Johnson for coating my stationary cast iron tools, but have never tried it on wood.

 

[rst]

My first job out of high school in 1971  [blink], was in a custom kitchen factory...Wood Mode.  The final polish on every thing was Johnson's and I've been using it all these years. 

 

[leakyroof]

Ditto on the Article and the authors conclusions .
It was also REALLY helpful to have someone else try out all those waxes that I've seen advertised but never bought and tried for myself... [embarassed]

 

[blaszcsj]

I just bought a subscription to the magazine thanks to you [member=37411]Edward A Reno III[/member]

Great article and I liked the sharpening box from the previous issue.

 

[sancho57]

I've been using antiqwax (sp) lately. Before that Briwax, both ar pretty good.

I like the way it goes on a polishes very nice.

You know That festool makes a pad for buffing out wax? I apply it by hand let it dry, hand rub it with white scotchbrite, then buff it with my RO 150 with that buffing pad. Works great for me.

I also use it as a final finish when I use shellac. Gives it a nice finish

 

[ear3]

Which pad are you talking about [member=10147]jobsworth[/member] ? I use the sheepskin pad for that, but it loads up pretty quickly with wax and requires cleaning.

 

[sancho57]

No it isn't the sheep skin pad. I got some for my RO 90 they are not cheap.

Ill do a search for it.  It took a bit of a search. I found out about them by talking to Tom Bellemare.

here is the p/n 485970

Just got done buffing a desk top Im making for my son, has a nice shine and very smooth finish

 

[ear3]

Huh.  I have that pad, but I've always used it just to apply the polish, then buff it out with the sheepskin.

No it isn't the sheep skin pad. I got some for my RO 90 they are not cheap.

Ill do a search for it.  It took a bit of a search. I found out about them by talking to Tom Bellemare.

here is the p/n 485970

Just got done buffing a desk top Im making for my son, has a nice shine and very smooth finish

 

[Stephen B]

[size=13pt]Is it this felt one, which I too have used for both application and buffing?
http://www.festool.com.au/epages/to...ooltechnic/Products/485972/SubProducts/485972
[size=8pt]
[member=10147]jobsworth[/member]  [member=37411]Edward A Reno III[/member]

 

[sancho57]

That sure looks like it

 

[sancho57]

Here's a photo of a desks I'm making for my son here's top I finished with wax buffed out using the pad, notice the shine

 

[Mavrik]

I've been experimenting for some time with brewing my own wax recipe.

Got hold of some raw beeswax from a honeybee foundation.

Bought some carnauba flakes.

Find 50% beeswax;  50% carnauba melted in a double boiler & thinned with real turpentine works great.

I make a fairly "runny" brew.
I apply it by hand (literally) and buff it with anything soft.
The carnauba shines very easily.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

 

[rmwarren]

Looking at the FWW online membership - their website is a mite unclear to me on annual cost. I think it is $79.75 year one then $19.95 each year thereafter to renew. They refer to the following years as "upgrades" rather than renewals.

Can anyone with this subscription confirm my understanding?

Thanks,

RMW

 

[Sparktrician]

I wish that they had included Butchers Bowling Alley Wax.  It would be nice to know how this "Old Reliable" stacks up against the field.   

 

[leakyroof]

I wish that they had included Butchers Bowling Alley Wax.  It would be nice to know how this "Old Reliable" stacks up against the field. 

You're right, they missed that old chestnut in the review... [mad]

 

[Svar]

Two surprises for me.  First is the author's selection of Renaissance Wax as the best of the lot (he tried at least a dozen).  That's what I use when I do a wax finish -- but I came to it not after extensive testing, but based upon a recommendation when I was looking for one

I use it too all the time. Not surprised by its top rank. It was developed by British Museum for antique restoration and is a go to product for polishing your sward and armor.

 

[rmwarren]

Help me understand a wax's place in a finish. From what I can glean is acts to smooth out a previous applied finish, but does it provide additional protection?

Case in point, I recently finished a small side table, first using Surfix (which remained a little gummy) then with additional coats of a urethane/wax finish that [member=550]Tinker[/member] recommended. Final result has a nice semi-gloss but I can still see some pores. Should I apply wax over this as a final coat?

In the case of the table it will certainly see drink glasses set on it at some point, is wax proof against rings showing up?

Thanks,

RMW   

 

[Tinker]

Help me understand a wax's place in a finish. From what I can glean is acts to smooth out a previous applied finish, but does it provide additional protection?

Case in point, I recently finished a small side table, first using Surfix (which remained a little gummy) then with additional coats of a urethane/wax finish that [member=550]Tinker[/member] recommended. Final result has a nice semi-gloss but I can still see some pores. Should I apply wax over this as a final coat?

In the case of the table it will certainly see drink glasses set on it at some point, is wax proof against rings showing up?

Thanks,

RMW 

[member=8712]Richard/RMW[/member], I believe the finish I recommended was a blend of oil and urethane.  My feeling about wax has been that once wax is used, no other finish other than wax will work unless the wax is removed.  I have used wax for some of my projects.  I have used a mixture of mineral oil and canning wax for a food safe finish.  In that case, if I need to refinish, i use the same type of finish.  Sometimes, when using the mineral oil and wax, I do a first coat with a type of Danish oil and then the oil and wax over.  I also make use of the micro wave oven if the project will fit. If the project won't fit in the micro wave, i apply the oil and wax part and then warm the surface with a hair dryer.  I don't know if the heat does anything for the durability of that type of finish, but it soaks the O&W into the wood quicker.  I do several coats within an hour instead of waiting over nite for a second coat. 

The oil and urethane (Arm-R-Seal) seems to make a hard finish and i find i can apply either with brush, sponge or with a cloth or paper towel.  It will dry and harden within 24 hours and ready for a second coat.  with that finish, I am told it will resist breaking down from somehing like a hot cup of coffee.  I have not checked that out. 

The oil and wax type finish I have used mostly on serving trays and coasters.  The coasters we use for everything one might use a wood coaster for. we have used hot cups of coffee or tea with no ill effects.  We have spilled alcohol on them with no breaking down of the finish. The finish will be dull to begin with, so it takes a lot of dulling to show.  we have rinsed the coasters with warm water.  We have not, to my knowledge, used  warm soapy water for rinsing. The set of coasters we have kept for ourselves have been used for three or four years with almost no ill effects.  we don't use them often as a set, but my wife uses one almost every day for her afternoon cup of tea.  I think she uses a different one each time if she thinks about it.

I cannot show a pic of any of the projects i have done with oil and wax.  They got lost with my most recent computer upgrade.  a bummer.  When my guru gets to me (after 4th of july) he ill try to sort that problem out so i can add new pics and hopefully retrieve the old ones.
Tinker
Tinker

 

[JSlovic]

I wish that they had included Butchers Bowling Alley Wax.  It would be nice to know how this "Old Reliable" stacks up against the field. 

Funny Bowling Alley Wax Story-
I was the Mfg Engineer in a plant many years ago. My boss was an "all thrust and minimal guidance" type of guy.  I was traveling and we had an issue with some components that were sticking to their wooden carriers.  He called in a panic and I told him to just polish the carrier with Bowling Alley Wax.  He says got it and hangs up the phone.
Later that day I got a call from one of my Techs asking where to get bowling alley wax- the boss has driven to every bowling alley in town without finding any.
 

 

[rmwarren]

Help me understand a wax's place in a finish. From what I can glean is acts to smooth out a previous applied finish, but does it provide additional protection?

Case in point, I recently finished a small side table, first using Surfix (which remained a little gummy) then with additional coats of a urethane/wax finish that [member=550]Tinker[/member] recommended. Final result has a nice semi-gloss but I can still see some pores. Should I apply wax over this as a final coat?

In the case of the table it will certainly see drink glasses set on it at some point, is wax proof against rings showing up?

Thanks,

RMW 

[member=8712]Richard/RMW[/member], I believe the finish I recommended was a blend of oil and urethane.  My feeling about wax has been that once wax is used, no other finish other than wax will work unless the wax is removed.  I have used wax for some of my projects.  I have used a mixture of mineral oil and canning wax for a food safe finish.  In that case, if I need to refinish, i use the same type of finish.  Sometimes, when using the mineral oil and wax, I do a first coat with a type of Danish oil and then the oil and wax over.  I also make use of the micro wave oven if the project will fit. If the project won't fit in the micro wave, i apply the oil and wax part and then warm the surface with a hair dryer.  I don't know if the heat does anything for the durability of that type of finish, but it soaks the O&W into the wood quicker.  I do several coats within an hour instead of waiting over nite for a second coat. 

The oil and urethane (Arm-R-Seal) seems to make a hard finish and i find i can apply either with brush, sponge or with a cloth or paper towel.  It will dry and harden within 24 hours and ready for a second coat.  with that finish, I am told it will resist breaking down from somehing like a hot cup of coffee.  I have not checked that out. 

The oil and wax type finish I have used mostly on serving trays and coasters.  The coasters we use for everything one might use a wood coaster for. we have used hot cups of coffee or tea with no ill effects.  We have spilled alcohol on them with no breaking down of the finish. The finish will be dull to begin with, so it takes a lot of dulling to show.  we have rinsed the coasters with warm water.  We have not, to my knowledge, used  warm soapy water for rinsing. The set of coasters we have kept for ourselves have been used for three or four years with almost no ill effects.  we don't use them often as a set, but my wife uses one almost every day for her afternoon cup of tea.  I think she uses a different one each time if she thinks about it.

I cannot show a pic of any of the projects i have done with oil and wax.  They got lost with my most recent computer upgrade.  a bummer.  When my guru gets to me (after 4th of july) he ill try to sort that problem out so i can add new pics and hopefully retrieve the old ones.
Tinker
Tinker

Sorry [member=550]Tinker[/member] I misspoke, it was the Arm-R-Seal you recommended that I used. It went on great once I got the hang of keeping a wet edge and not over-wiping.

The Arm-R-Seal was quite thin which surprised me, and it dried FAST when applied so it was easy to over-brush and end up with streaks. I took 1/2 sheet of paper towel and folded it to around 2" square & wrapped this into a single layer of tee-shirt rag making a pad that would soak up some finish, then used the edge to apply the finish. On the final coat I was very careful to recharge the pad often and take long barely overlapping strokes while keeping the coat as thin as possible. 

I am happy with the look and happy to let it be, I just don't understand the benefits of applying wax over another finish. I'll have to consult The Oracle a bit more.

RMW