Finishing Bloodwood and Sapelli sanded to a high grit [updated w/pics]

[ear3]

Decided to get an early jump on DIY Xmas gifts, and so I'm fabricating a few more sets of the sharkfin bookends that I did last year:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/member-projects/last-minute-xmas-gift-sharkfin-book-ends/msg360613/#msg360613

Instead of the maple I used the first go round, this time I'm experimenting with more exotic woods.  Picked up some bloodwood and sapelli at Boards and Beams in Fairfield, NJ, and this afternoon laminated some of the bloodwood pieces together for the basic form -- tomorrow I'll attack them with my new RAS, whose dust collection will no doubt protect me much better from the toxic bloodwood dust than the angle grinder I used for the first set.

Ideally I'd like to do the same finishing procedure I used the first time, which was to sand it all the way up to 2000 Platin, then buff it out with some Renaissance Wax.  But not having worked with either of these species before, I'm not sure if this would be the best method.  Would people recommend instead some oil first before applying the wax, or maybe forget about sanding to such a high grit and go with a varnish instead?  I would really prefer to have the natural smoothness of the wood that high grit sanding produces,  but I'm open to suggestions.  Thanks

 

[ear3]

Well, I just went ahead with the sanding on the bloodwood to Platin 2000, and it turned out very well.  After shaping with the RAS, I stepped up the grits from 60 to 220, then 320, 400, 800, 1200, and finally the Platin 2000.  Once I hit 220 I started vacuuming and wiping with a clean cloth after every grit.

It was a bit easier this time around, as I had the ETS 150/3, as opposed to the RO150 I used for the high grits last time.  I was a bit worried at first, since at 400 grit there wasn't yet a hint of mirroring, but that changed once I hit 800, and with the Platin the iridescence kicked in.  I found the Platin worked better with the interface pad, as it produced a faster rotation on the sander.  I also worked the Platin much longer than I did last time around, and the extra time definitely produced a better finish.  I think I might even try to get some Platin 4000 just to see if I can get some more iridescence.

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[nclemmons]

Excellent!  These look outstanding. 

So that is just wax.

Wonder if oil might pop the grain a bit more?  Might try on a flat piece and compare.
I have had great results with oil on sapele. 

Now how do I get on your gift list?!

 

[mike_aa]

Edward,

Another first rate fabrication and finishing job!  I was amazed at the first pair you did a while back, and with these being a bit darker, they are even more amazing!

An assortment of Platin disks is on my list.  I've got to give Tom a call pretty soon.

Thanks for sharing!

Mike A.

 

[teocaf]

Now how do I get on your gift list?!

As the guys on CarTalk were fond of saying--paraphrasing here:  "send your request, handwritten on a NAINA systainer, that contains a VAC-SYS...

[member=37411]Edward A Reno III[/member] --did you ever get to try the arbortech turbo plane for this go round?

added PS to other Foggers:  How will bloodwood finished this way fare over time?  Will it fade or deepen?  I just got a board of this wood and would like to know as I start to consider what to use it for.

 

[ear3]

[member=167]neilc[/member] Yeah, just Renaissance Wax.  I think it may have been due to the dirtiness of my lambswool pad, but when I initially buffed it, it actually lost some of its luster.  So I simply went over the wax finish again with the Platin.

BTW, is it even possible to apply oil (prior to waxing) to something finished at such a high grit?  Never tried it before, but maybe will go with your suggestion of experimenting on one of the flat scraps I have leftover.

EDIT: I didn't end up getting the Arbortech, though I may if I ever start shaping larger pieces.

Just a comment on how the RAS worked vs. the angle grinder.  It definitely took more time using the RAS.  There was obviously less dust (but not as great a reduction as I thought there might be -- though this may have been just a technique issue, since I'm still learning the optimal positioning of the dust shroud, and I was also frequently switching what side of the pad I was using) -- and in particular, a noticeable reduction in the fine, ambient dust.  But the cut quality is far superior to the angle grinder.  No burning, even with the Saphir 24, and I could move to higher grits of Rubin as I got closer to the basic form.  This cut down on the initial low grit sanding that was needed with the RO90 and interface pad.

Excellent!  These look outstanding. 

So that is just wax.

Wonder if oil might pop the grain a bit more?  Might try on a flat piece and compare.
I have had great results with oil on sapele. 

Now how do I get on your gift list?!

 

[Cheese]

[member=37411]Edward A Reno III[/member]
Really nice job...especially keeping the sharp edge on the fin, that's what catches the eye. That must have taken some doing.

 

[ear3]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] Thanks.  Yeah -- multiple hours of sanding, but I kind of like sanding with a purpose.

EDIT: BTW, when shaping a symmetrical form like this, I discovered it's actually easier to work with a laminated, rather than solid block (and if possible an even number of laminated pieces). The joint line between the third and fourth  pieces provides the perfect center line to work off of. After I made the maple ones last year, I tried to duplicate them from a single block of Walnut, but found it pretty difficult  to keep a consistent line without any joint to reference off of.

[member=37411]Edward A Reno III[/member]
Really nice job...especially keeping the sharp edge on the fin, that's what catches the eye. That must have taken some doing.