Need to put up a lot of batons onto masonary

[Mini Me]

I have no idea of what the adhesive was but I assume it was Liquid Nails or similar.

 

[luvmytoolz]

I use the Liquid Nails style construction adhesives very extensively in conjunction with nails or screws, but generally when I want something to really stay put, and have never had an issue as a result. When I've had to disassemble something the bond is extremely hard or nigh impossible to cleanly break, which is exactly what I want.

 

[rst]

From a commercial glaziers point of view, use a urethane caulk/adhesive. I've done tear outs where the masonry actually came off with the aluminum framing. Wood will often tear out rather than release. As a general rule we need to cut the caulk with a revip or oscillating tool to remove the unit and then chisel the caulk off the masonry with a sharp chisel, preferably chuck in a rotary/chiseling tool to remove. It's so good that now your vehicle windshield is considered a structural part and the reason our company quit doing replacements in the 90s. as it became too specialized. we only do large construction type replacements as they are generally flat and we can cut the glass, on site if need be.
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[Cheese]

From a commercial glaziers point of view, use a urethane caulk/adhesive. I've done tear outs where the masonry actually came off with the aluminum framing. Wood will often tear out rather than release. As a general rule we need to cut the caulk with a revip or oscillating tool to remove the unit and then chisel the caulk off the masonry with a sharp chisel, preferably chuck in a rotary/chiseling tool to remove. It's so good that now your vehicle windshield is considered a structural part and the reason our company quit doing replacements in the 90s. as it became too specialized. we only do large construction type replacements as they are generally flat and we can cut the glass, on site if need be.
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Nice to know RST...I've always been a fan of PL 400 and while Liquid Nails was not specifically identified as eventually turning into "powdery mildew", that adhesive will now be permanently eliminated from any of my purchasing considerations as it always has been...Liquid Nails...nice name...Really?

History is so important to so many aspects of our lives and documentation is the only way to prevent us from repeating our past mistakes.

 

[Mini Me]

I use the Liquid Nails style construction adhesives very extensively in conjunction with nails or screws, but generally when I want something to really stay put, and have never had an issue as a result. When I've had to disassemble something the bond is extremely hard or nigh impossible to cleanly break, which is exactly what I want.

I am pretty sure the fit out was at least 30 years old when we stripped the room back to the bricks. I agree it sticks very well for a long time but eventually it breaks down.

 

[Coen]

@bobtskutter

The DX460 will drive nails into steel girders, mate - seriously. Beast of a machine. I’ve used it frequently for exactly the task you describe. Three nails per batten - and you’ll be able to anchor your battleship to them.

Yeah, but nobody is driving nails into masonry. That is why it says concrete, sand-lime brick and steel.

This is what I'm aiming for:
brick, batten, foil insulation, then batten, then plywood.



Regards
Bob

Is that that make-believe insulation with the fake stated R values that in the small letter print assume you include a perfectly closed 50mm closed cavity on either side?

Curious: Wouldn’t it be easier to insulate the interior of the garage?

Wait what? He already is planning that, I assumed?

 

[woodbutcherbower]

@Coen Bricks are masonry. At least they were the last time I looked. I've put a zillion battens onto brick with the DX460 over the years. I didn't suggest it to Bob just for a joke to spoil his day.

 

[bobtskutter]

DONE! probably 14hrs work start to finish, including all the faffing about of working in a small space full of junk. Used a laser level to keep everything plumb and used my corded Makita drill to drill all the holes (those Bosch Pro masonry drills are ace! Dont tell @Moler). It's all held up with nylon plugs and 50mm screws. My arms and back ache but I'm happy to be back out doing stuff!!!

There's about 60 battens in total plus lining out the corners of the buttresses in the old garage.

I have absolutely no doubt that Hilti nail gun (@woodbutcherbower) would have got the job done much faster, but I'm an amateur and watching videos of the thing it's probably best left in the hands of the Pros. I have a framing nail gun that can drive 4" nails and I find that a beast!

I am using blanket insulation, yes. They say it has a U value of 0.21w/m2K using two layers and 25mm thick battens. There is currently no insulation, so anything is an improvement.

Regards
Bob

 

[Eank1954]

I attached studs to interior walls (cinder block) using .22 caliber explosive drive. The cheaper versions are well within reach. But note, I have not tried to shoot into brick.

Curious: Wouldn’t it be easier to insulate the interior of the garage? Foam panels have a higher insulation value and can install with construction adhesive.

I see single shot guns under $40.00 US$. Faster than drilling and less work too.

But note: These come in various loads depending upon the surface being attached to. And while the cinderblock walls accepted the nails with a light load, even the heaviest loads could not penetrate the poured concrete floors.





Curious: Wouldn’t it be easier to insulate the interior of the garage? Foam panels have a higher insulation value and can install with construction adhesive. Plus, when working on interiors, consider adding some biophilic wallpaper to bring a touch of nature indoors — it not only enhances aesthetics but also creates a calming environment, which is great if you spend time working in the garage or adjacent spaces.

Interesting approach! Using a .22 caliber for fastening does sound fast and effective, especially if the walls are made of blocks that are easy to puncture. But, as you noted, concrete floors are a completely different story, they need more powerful means or a completely different method.

Regarding insulation - internal insulation of the garage is indeed simpler and more effective, especially if you use foam panels with a good thermal insulation coefficient. They can be easily glued to the walls and get an even layer of insulation without unnecessary holes or damage to the walls. In addition, this will avoid possible problems with condensation and save space.

In general, the choice of method depends on the specific task and the material of the walls. If you need to quickly and inexpensively fasten something to blocks, your method may be justified. For a more capital solution with insulation, it is most likely better to use specialized panels or insulation with adhesive application.