Finishing Name Plate

[Mario Turcot]

I am totally new to true natural finish that look professional and any suggestion is welcome.

I have small name plates to finish 2" x 8" made of Ash, Beech, Bloodwood, bubinga, Maple etc.. I currently use Tried & True Danish Oil as a sealer using a rag. I have been doing them one at a time so far, but I may get commission to make several ones. I find rags to be messy and spray gun is not in my budget yet.

I do apply one coat of sealer, do I really need to and one coat is fine?
If you were starting from scratch on small commission, what product and application would you use?
Foam brushes recommended?

I also want to avoid discoloration as much as possible on light wood like Ash and Beech.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Sparktrician]

You might want to try Osmo PolyX.  I've used it on cherry.  It does not alter the color of the wood.  The cherry will darken from exposure to natural light, but the PolyX does not cause the darkening. 

 

[deepcreek]

Deft rattle can spray lacquer. 

Sand to 220 beforehand.

Two coats of gloss and one coat of satin (or one more of gloss).  30 minutes between coats.

Lightly sand with gray 3M non-woven pad before final coat.

Spray it outside or in a ventilated paint booth.  Do not use this inside your shop.

 

[James Carriere]

Deft rattle can spray lacquer. 

Sand to 220 beforehand.

Two coats of gloss and one coat of satin (or one more of gloss).  30 minutes between coats.

Lightly sand with gray 3M non-woven pad before final coat.

Spray it outside or in a ventilated paint booth.  Do not use this inside your shop.

+1 on the Deft rattle cans. I prefer the blue label over the green label which is a different finish. (Green = waterbourne if memory serves correct).  The first coat will feel a bit dusty when dry, the second coat after the 3m pad will feel less so and the 3rd coat will feel silky and smooth so don’t be discouraged by tactile feel of the first two coats.  Also shop around.  In my area I’ve seen it from $6 a can up to $9.50