finishing oak cabinet help

[bevans]

I have made a book cabinet top and coffee table top out of oak and have sanded the tops down to a fairly smooth finish ending with 220 grit paper. After I applied an oil based poly I found several places where bubbles formed on some debris  I did not notice while applying the poly and has created a few rough spots. I have used 0000 steel wool and was able to smooth out the spots and after reapplying the poly there are additional spots. Is there a finish method I can apply or a clear wax I can put on the surface to get the "smooth" feel back? There will likely be no liquids ever placed on the cabinet top and the coffee table top will have an occasional glass sitting on it.

Thanks in advance

Bruce

 

[John Bates]

I noticed you wire wooled the oak, generally, this is a no no. Steel wire will remain in the oak and stain it black.

 

[Jesse Cloud]

I agree with John, the steel wool may be a problem.

Are the spots visible or is it just that you notice it when you touch it?  If the spots are a different color or texture, you will probably have to strip the finish off, clean it thoroughly to remove the steel wool (compressed air and a brush), sand it smooth,  and start over.

If the spots are just noticeable to the touch, its worth a try to wax them down.  Nothing to lose, though the steel wool may still turn black.

Poly has two problems: it dries slowly (= a magnet for dust) and it likes to bubble unless handled very gently.  Wipe on poly (e.g., highly diluted Poly) solves both issues, but takes several coats to build up a good finish. 

If you get the spots again, try to remove them by very gently rubbing a razor blade over the spots.  Sand the whole piece with 320 grit and put on another coat.

Its PITA stuff like this that drives most of us to eventually just spray on lacquer. [laughing]

Good luck and let us know how it comes out.

 

[mastercabman]

Agree with Jesse.How did you apply the poly?I would start with a thin/diluted coat,then sand with 320 and then recoat.I like to do 3 coats.
Make sure that you do not shake the poly,but stire it.If you shake it,you will get bubbles!(Ask me how i know that!)
I would also suggest to use a sealer first.Good luck.

 

[bevans]

Ahhh darn, and a whole lot of other descriptives. I appreciate the advice, I do not notice the surface turning black. The steel wool seemd to create a dull surface around the area. After I used the steel wool, I wiped it clean with a slightly damp and clean cloth.

I dred the thought of starting all over. I used an oild based stain first and waited 72 hours before I applied coats of poly with a foam brush, I gently stirred the poly prior to application. I could lightly sand the surface again and apply another coat but fear the length of drying time and the area where it is drying is much more dusty than I thought and will get the same results.

Does the wax have to be applied on a fairly regular basis?

Bruce

 

[Kevin Stricker]

If your finish has all been oil based I wouldn't worry too much about the steel wool, it is more of a problem with water based finishes.  Before you go down the wax route try and see if you can move the pieces to "cleaner" locations.  Do your sanding, blow off dust with compressed air, then set up a mini-finish booth in a bathroom if you can.  Change your clothes, wipe down the pieces with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits and then do your final coat.  Remember you hanging out in the room moving around causes dust to pick up so do it quick and close the door (and block off any air vents).  In a few hours you can move it back to your shop to let the finish cure.

If you can't move the pieces to a cleaner spot then do all of the above, then do your top coat with poly cut 50% with mineral spirits.  That should dry a lot faster and might take care of the problem.

 

[bevans]

Excellent advice, thanks for the replies. I was not able to create a "clean" dust free room but I was able to sand down the trouble spots, did another coat of poly when that dried I did a final coat with the poly (diluted) and it looks presentable.

Thanks again, this board has a lot of talented and helpful members and is greatly appreciated.

Bruce

 

[GruntSgt]

One method that I use is sand between coats (lightly), after the last coat cures (if solvent based) wet sand with 600-1000 grit wet dry paper with the grain then use a quality polishing compound followed by a good silicone free wax. I just finished two arts and craft end tables and brought them in the house today. My process was spraying on three coats of KemAqua waterbased lacquer (Sherwin Williams) I was hesitant to use it but happy withe the results. Wet sanded the last coat then applied Behlen Deluxing Compound followed by buffing with my RO150 with a lambswool buffing pad. That will give you that glass smooth finish, oh yeah before I polish I go over the top with a soft felt prepolish pad on the 150. Rottenstone, and automotive polishing compound would also work. I finish of the top with a coat of Briwax.

Good Luck
Dan