First Table Saw: SYS 50, SS CTS or Skil???

[Huey52]

[member=82312]onocoffee[/member]

I was having trouble linking a photo yesterday. Here's the base I built up for my SIL. I was going to do the bigger one highlighted by the Woodworker's Journal folks (Rockler) but he too has limited space so went smaller/simpler:

I like Ridge Carbide blades and used Stumpy Nubs (James Hamilton) discount. 10x80 (fine crosscutting/plywood veneer) & 10x40 (general purpose combo) & 10x20 (thick/dense stock).

Here's a link to the larger base I had planned to build: https://go.rockler.com/plans/benchtop-table-saw-stand-plan.pdf

 

[Packard]

I am entirely self-taught on the use of the table saw.  My source material in the beginning was books and magazines.

Certain aspects regarding safety are entirely intuitive, like keeping your hands away from the spinning blade.

Other aspects need to be taught, or more accurately, learned.

For me, that was kick-back.  I did know to stand aside when ripping narrow pieces against the fence, and yet I was startled (and safe) when the first kick-back occurred.

The second time, not so lucky.  I was ripping a short piece of stock and the kick-back manifested as a kick-up, tearing the fingernail from my pointer finger.  I had never read that short pieces will kick up.

If at all possible, especially on your first table saw, learn from someone with experience.

Also, avoid those pusher sticks made from plastic.  The spinning blade does not necessarily grind away the resin like it does with wood.  It can catch the tip of the plastic pusher, bend it into an arc and then explosively release the stored energy.

I was lucky and was not hurt.  My pushers are now shop-made fro MDF or particle board.

Good luck with your new saw.

 

[woodferret]

You should be fine with the CSC or Sawstop supplied push sticks.  If you pick up a bargain basement from Walmart, that's on you.*

* Plastic choice along with plasticizer makes a difference - as does scrap wood selection when DIY.
** For ref, the CSC push stick is made from PA6-GF30 nylon.  It will not explode.

 

[Huey52]

I like The Hedgehog push stick. Nicely hand-offset with better downward-sideward through the cut control:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=hedgehog+push+stick&hvadid=549795896126&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9002047&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=13195716707704614453&hvtargid=kwd-1435260488395&hydadcr=7690_11328747&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_6g6193a948_e

Also the Bow Products featherboard:
https://www.amazon.com/Featherboard...-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

 

[Packard]

I am at lunch now.  Later I will post an image of my favorite push “stick”.

I would not use a resin push stick, especially with a rip blade.  I imagine it is less of an issue with a fine tooth blade.

The MagSwitch feather board is the only one that I use nearly for every cut.  It is so quick to setup, I don’t even think about it.

Also, I “rip first, then cut to length”.  This ensures that I am not cutting very short pieces.

Pictured below is a shop-made push stick.  It is made from MDF.  I just scribbled some dimensions on the side (I would not normally do that).  The size varies, depending upon what size scrap I have.  But this example is close to ideal.

I rarely add the round over profile until I have something else that requires it.  Then I add this to the queue.

I rarely paint these, but if I am painting something else, I will again add this to the queue. 

My hand is always on the slanted 45 degree plane.  If I am pressing there, then I am both pressing down and forward.  Kick up is not an issue because of that.

The MDF has a high coefficient of friction which enables me to keep the board pressed against the fence. 

The MagSwitch, unlike other feather boards I have had, gets used for virtually every cut.  It is super fast and easy to set in place and lock.

I will often trim the push board if the edges get damaged.  So the size varies.  The one pictured has had the bottom trimmed off a couple of times (about 1/2” total).  If I find I have a suitable replacement scrap, I will make a new one rather than trim much more. 

I like to keep the short end of the 45 degree plane greater than the maximum blade height, so that if I have my hand on the 45 degree side, my hand is out of the reach of the spinning blade.

The pusher takes minutes to make and costs nothing.  A better deal than one of thos yellow plastic things, which can store energy and literally explode into pieces if it catches a blade tip.