FSK rail choice

[WAKA2020]

Hi all,
Just new to the forum and a newbie to the Festool as well, just a regular homeowner who likes to do some project everything around the house. Recently purchase the first Festool HKC55, just looking for advice from the PRO!
I am thinking could get FSK 250 + FS 1900 should be cover everything I could do, or I could just get FSK670 for all the applications.
Not ripping a lot sheet though.

If just one FSK rail, which one are you going to choose?

thanks, and happy to find here.

 

[threesixright]

1900 is pretty long I think.

I got 2x1400 with the connector. So I can rip 2800.

1400 is a nice size to handle. Not a pro, just my 2cts.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Brice Burrell]

Welcome to the forum.  If you're only going to get one of the FSK rails then I'd recommend the 670.  I have both the 250 and 670.  The 250 is smaller and a bit easier to handle, but the 670 will give you more options.  If you take a liking to your HKC saw you'll end up with both rails at some point.

I don't think the HK saws make for particularly good track saws, compared to a dedicated track saw like the TS55.  Still, I think the standard track saw rails are a really nice option to have.  If you can afford it then I'd get two FS1400 rails and a couple of rail connectors.  Better yet would be one 1400 rail and one 1900 rail, plus connectors.  The 1900 rail makes easier to cross cut sheet goods (the standard size sheet goods here in N. America).  There's no need to rush into buying extra rails, you can wait to see if the need arises. 

Best of luck and let us know what you decide on. 

 

[Thompmd]

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your first tool, let us know if the depth of cut is a concern ? I am also considering an hkc55 and would appreciate feedback on the depth as well as a potential lack of power being cordless?

My only thought is if you get a 1400 rail get the one w the 32mm holes as it gives you more options IMO.

 

[JeromeM]

1900 is pretty long I think.

I got 2x1400 with the connector. So I can rip 2800.

1400 is a nice size to handle. Not a pro, just my 2cts.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

having started with 2 X 800 and a 1400 I then added a 1080-LR32 rail and use a Betterley StraightLine connector so that joined rails are always perfectly in line, I have 2 sets of rail connectors.

With that setup I can do most of the things I want including cutting 2440 sheets of material.

When I got my rails the 1080 LR32 was the only one available.

Things I would do differently with the options available; 3 rails and the betterley connector

any 1400 rail would be an LR32, the price is very little different.
A 1080 rail is OK but I would get a 2424-LR 32
Also 1 800 is a nice size to add to the 2424 for full sheet ripping.

 

[mrboult]

Had my HKC for 3 years along with the 420 rail (also have TS55+Many rails)

The HKC feels like it has only just enough power. It will cut dry lumber to full depth all day, wet lumber will bog it down noticeably but it will still do the job with an occasional stall. These days I have a Bluetooth vac so I've been using the saw more for plywood than I used to, here it performs wonderfully, though it's def a little slower than the TS55. I haven't done much ripping of hardwoods with it, my memory is that it will do it but it's on the slow side compared to the 36v TSC or Mains versions.

I do like how long the batteries last though. No real comparisons from my end, just often surprised how long the batteries last. Two batteries is enough to cut all day.

As to rail length, I like my FSK420 for the flexibility, especially to do angled cuts, that I imagine the FSK250 couldn't reach. But I find it pretty heavy and unwieldy for a days use and often wish I had the smaller rail when just cutting 2x4 to length. So that makes me think that the FSK670 would really be un-fun to use unless you really need that length of cut in this kind of setup.

I wouldn't want the HKC to be my only saw, I'd still choose the TS55 for that, but the HKC really could be my only saw, and I'd buy it again in a minute if something happened to mine.

 

[FestitaMakool]

What mrB said.

I’ve got all 3 FSK rails. I’ve yet to use the 670. I know I will, but the 250 is a real gem for most up to 2x6 til past 45° mitre or even 2x8 if less than 45° (Again, timber are apparently measured differently by different country’s, A 2x4” is 48x98mm here, and not true 2x4 inches - Most of us still call our timber by imperial, but measure in metric)
Try do your own calculations, or even dry test a FSK rail to measure which dimensions it will cut for you. You can draw an arch measuring 250, 420 and 670mm starting at 90° from an edge and move the arch to at least 60° - then measure what each rail will cut at your measured angles (mitre cut). The cut capacity decreases as the angle increases or decreases from 90°.

I absolutely love mine, the features, handling, cut quality, ease and weight makes it a winner. As mrB says, battery capacity is great. It may “lack” power on thick wet or very dense timber with “just” 18V, but a bit patience makes more than up for carrying something that would have been a lot heavier and bulkier with 2x18V. Let the saw do the job and don’t push too hard and you’ll be fine.

 

[mkasdin]

What mrB said.

I’ve got all 3 FSK rails. I’ve yet to use the 670. I know I will, but the 250 is a real gem for most up to 2x6 til past 45° mitre or even 2x8 if less than 45° (Again, timber are apparently measured differently by different country’s, A 2x4” is 48x98mm here, and not true 2x4 inches - Most of us still call our timber by imperial, but measure in metric)
Try do your own calculations, or even dry test a FSK rail to measure which dimensions it will cut for you. You can draw an arch measuring 250, 420 and 670mm starting at 90° from an edge and move the arch to at least 60° - then measure what each rail will cut at your measured angles (mitre cut). The cut capacity decreases as the angle increases or decreases from 90°.

I absolutely love mine, the features, handling, cut quality, ease and weight makes it a winner. As mrB says, battery capacity is great. It may “lack” power on thick wet or very dense timber with “just” 18V, but a bit patience makes more than up for carrying something that would have been a lot heavier and bulkier with 2x18V. Let the saw do the job and don’t push too hard and you’ll be fine.

I’ve been looking into adding a HKC 55. I agree about the 250 rail for dimensional lumber. It cuts a 9.8”? Crosscut..so unless your cutting 2x10 at an angle it should be fine. For sheet goods then the longer lengths are a better fit. The HK saw will also ride on a FS rail....

 

[WAKA2020]

Thanks for everyone's input, seems like a couple of options here:
FSK 250 X 2
FSK 420 X 2
FSK 670 X 1
FS 1400 X 2
FS 1900 + 1400
It makes me even harder to decide  [eek]
For sure will get 1400 at least one but for FSK still debating, I was thinking 250 + 670 but seems like not lot people like 670.
Is longer the better applied here as well?  [big grin]

 

[thudchkr]

I ended up purchasing the HKC 55 with the 420 rail and added a 250 afterwards. In hindsight, i wished I had opted for the 670 and the 250. There has been times I’ve wished for more capacity than is available with the 420. Finally broke down and ordered the 670, (which just arrived today), so now have all three to choose from.

I already had a large number of the FS rails before I purchased the HKC, so didn’t have any choices to make there. If I had to make a recommendation, I’d probably suggest getting a 1900 and a 1080. Coupled together, they allow lengthwise cuts on a full sheet of plywood, and I prefer to crosscut plywood with a rail longer than the 1400, as I find it borderline long enough, especially when you add a rail square to it.

 

[cpw]

I'm not a pro, just someone into DIY.  I bought a FSK420 rail to go with my HKC, but then added a FSK250.  The 250 won't cut a 2x12, but is less awkward in some circumstances.  I don't have a 670, but think that given how awkward the 420 was at times, I would not want that one.

I do have a couple FS 1400s, and a FS 3000 as well for use with my TS75.  I also use them with the HKC for cutting down sheet goods occasionally and that is convenient given that the HKC is cordless and has no problem with 1/2" or 3/4" sheets hanging off the back of my truck without really needing to get a fancy setup.  When I really care about the edge though, I would use the TS75 and foam on a centipede (or maybe the new STM 1800 when I next have a job).

 

[FestitaMakool]

What [member=2575]thudchkr[/member] said makes for an narrowed down versatile set up.

Remember to think your use, realistically and potentially realistic.
It’s easy to get carried away for what other users use their tool for. That might not be right for you. A 670 gives value for money, it is the longest FSK rail as pr. today.
Let’s say you use it mostly stationary, not constantly carrying it around cutting narrow stock outside on a lumber pile, on scaffolding, on a roof, on a trailer etc.

A 670 gives you opportunity to cut almost any angle repetitively. You can set an odd angle from a bevel/protractor and cut repeatedly. The downside with the longer FSK is carry abilities for narrow stock. Then again, for roofing, up a scaffold it’s a saver compared to other saws, and it feels and is a lot more secure to work with in difficult conditions compared to a regular circle/skil saw and get perfect cuts (where a plunge saw don’t belong)

So, I would skip the 420 to save, and go for 250 and 670. (Pricing in a set brought me the 420)

 

[RKA]

+1 for the FSK 420 and 1900+1400 rails.

But, I have a track saw and rail square for cross cuts on sheet goods.  My HKC is for construction lumber.  I thought I could get away with the 250, but ran into limits cutting angled cut for stair stingers and bought the 420.  But I do love how compact the 250 and HKC are. 

It really depends on what you plan to cut with the saw.

 

[patches]

Latching on to this thread as I have a similar query, but now with the TS 60 in mind (I don't have an HK/HKC)

Recently ordered a TS 60 as an upgrade to my Makita XGT plunge saw. One of the selling points was the compatibility with FSK rails and being a home-gamer mostly dealing in sheet-goods, I thought the FSK 670 would be the most useful for breaking down ply. But understanding that it could be unwieldy, wondering if the 420 is a better bet or if it's not quite long enough for average plywood applications.

As for regular rails, I already have 1m, 1.4m, and 3m Makita rails, so I'll stick with those until I finally phase them out for LR32 equivalents, or a nice 1900mm (I find *1400mm is not quite long enough for cross-cutting a full sheet). There will be an FS 1400 included with the TS 60, so I will sell off the 1.4m Makita rail with that saw.

*Makita does make a 1500mm track which would be perfect fro cross cutting full sheets, but it's not that common. Haven't ever seen one here in New Zealand, only in Australia.

 

[squall_line]

Latching on to this thread as I have a similar query, but now with the TS 60 in mind (I don't have an HK/HKC)

Recently ordered a TS 60 as an upgrade to my Makita XGT plunge saw. One of the selling points was the compatibility with FSK rails and being a home-gamer mostly dealing in sheet-goods, I thought the FSK 670 would be the most useful for breaking down ply. But understanding that it could be unwieldy, wondering if the 420 is a better bet or if it's not quite long enough for average plywood applications.

As for regular rails, I already have 1m, 1.4m, and 3m Makita rails, so I'll stick with those until I finally phase them out for LR32 equivalents, or a nice 1900mm (I find *1400mm is not quite long enough for cross-cutting a full sheet). There will be an FS 1400 included with the TS 60, so I will sell off the 1.4m Makita rail with that saw.

In my opinion, the limitation of the FSK rails is that you cannot attach an extension to them or travel beyond their limit, so even a 670mm rail probably won't be very useful for ripping down sheet goods, especially if you find the 1400 already too short; the 670 is less than half as short still.

The 250 is a pleasant little rail for dimensional lumber, the 420 is better for wider lumber or cutting stair stringers (its off-axis adjustability is bigger than the 250).

 

[pixelated]

Working from memory, I think the left side channel is blocked off at the far end of the FSK rails, so you could only join it with the lower channel.
As others have said, if cutting sheet goods is your goal, then the regular rails will work better. I have an HK saw, a couple of FSK rails and a few standard rails, overall I use the regular rails more often. Use the money you'd spend on an FSK rail and get a TSO rail square. As a bonus, it's easier to get a reliably square cut with the rail square than an FS rail, though for angle cuts there is no real substitute, if you need portable.

 

[patches]

Latching on to this thread as I have a similar query, but now with the TS 60 in mind (I don't have an HK/HKC)

Recently ordered a TS 60 as an upgrade to my Makita XGT plunge saw. One of the selling points was the compatibility with FSK rails and being a home-gamer mostly dealing in sheet-goods, I thought the FSK 670 would be the most useful for breaking down ply. But understanding that it could be unwieldy, wondering if the 420 is a better bet or if it's not quite long enough for average plywood applications.

As for regular rails, I already have 1m, 1.4m, and 3m Makita rails, so I'll stick with those until I finally phase them out for LR32 equivalents, or a nice 1900mm (I find *1400mm is not quite long enough for cross-cutting a full sheet). There will be an FS 1400 included with the TS 60, so I will sell off the 1.4m Makita rail with that saw.

In my opinion, the limitation of the FSK rails is that you cannot attach an extension to them or travel beyond their limit, so even a 670mm rail probably won't be very useful for ripping down sheet goods, especially if you find the 1400 already too short; the 670 is less than half as short still.

The 250 is a pleasant little rail for dimensional lumber, the 420 is better for wider lumber or cutting stair stringers (its off-axis adjustability is bigger than the 250).

Apologies, bad wording on my part.

I'd do the initial breaking down with the appropriate sized rail, but look to the use the FSK as a quick easy solution for cuts under 670mm, like for the sides of a 600mm deep cabinet carcass.

Guess that begs the question of accuracy though. Currently I use my 1m rail with a benchdogs rail square for this. Wonder how an FSK will compare for squareness.

 

[luvmytoolz]

[member=81681]patches[/member] From my experience with the FSK to my mind they're a little more agricultural compared to using FS guides. Granted I'm using the HK85 which can be a bit unwieldy, but personally I see the FSK as being more useful and practical for construction, and the FS guides along with the 90 degree guide for more precise cabinetmaking type work.

 

[simonh]

I've recently got a HKC55 and FSK250/420 rails. I also have a TSC55 and all the standard rail sizes...

The FSK really shines with dimensional lumber and decking type things (or quickly cutting down long lengths to get into the workshop). With a HK type saw the FSK makes sense as the blade is extended to cut depth so it's easy to push it up to the piece and cut.

On sheet goods a TS type saw a standard rail with rail square is my go to, plunging a TS style saw on a FSK rail would feel awkward IMO.

 

[Cheese]

I purchased the HKC when they first became available in 2016, nice saw but the 420 rail is pretty unwieldy for cutting narrow boards. About 4 years ago I picked up the 250 rail and the HKC has been mounted on that for the last 4 years...seldom do I use the 420.