E
ericbuggeln
Guest
Seth, I like where youre going with that, I was actually hoping the router table was gonna light the whole shop and I could save some money, Eric
Peter Halle said:
Yes. Thats what I did too. Works great and makes life real easy if you want to change the lights.
Seth
great idea peter. i might use that system in the future.Peter Halle said:
my task lighting is just pluged in to the wall sockets. works great but uses up a few sockets.
but you would want to use a different type of plug and socket so that you cant plug in a normal tool. or else put the same type of circuit breakers etc on the lighting circuit.
E
ericbuggeln
Guest
Do you guys think I would be able to take the two light bulbs, one on each side and turn those into electrical outlets, so i had something to plug shop lights into? If so would that light switch that now controls those two light, control the shop lights that were plugged into it? If the economy was better I would just do it right and be done with it, but...
tjbnwi
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- 7,057
ericbuggeln said:
I know of no magic that will turn a light bulb in to a receptacle ;D.
The outlet already exists, any opening where you can tie into an electrical system or install a device is an outlet.
Your electrician should be able to remove the lamp holders from the box, then install receptacles if you want to go the cord and plug route.
If installed correctly, the existing switch will control the receptacles, thus what ever is plugged into them.
Tom
Kevin Stricker
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You can buy a screw in outlet that fits in a standard incandescent fixture. The only problem is that the ones I have used are not grounded. You would have to get a pigtail adaptor ( my term for a 2 to three wire adaptor with exposed grounding wire)and ground it back in the box or on the fixture screw if your boxes are metal.
Probably more effort than its worth, especially when it would only take you maybe 15 minutes to pull the fixture and wire an outlet in its place.
Probably more effort than its worth, especially when it would only take you maybe 15 minutes to pull the fixture and wire an outlet in its place.
Mauri Motti
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- 355
Hi all,
I thought I might as well throw my question in here.
Halfway next month we will start building our workshop on the yard from scratch. (more details on that later in a separate thread)
About a year ago or so I did some research on which lighting to get in the shop. These are the notes I saved;
Shop lighting:
standard or electronic balasts?
always use electronic ballasts
electronic balasts don't buzz like crazy in cold conditions.
install a lot of fixtures and put them on a few switches so
you can power them up as needed
fluorescent, T5 HO
T5HO lamps are not interchangeable with T8, T12 and T5 lamps.
Optics are available with narrow and wide distributions. Wide distributions are best for lower mounting heights and general lighting areas, while narrow distributions are best for aisle and similar applications. Some fixtures offer a degree of uplight as well as direct downlight.
There are two recent developments of interest. First, 49-51W T5HO lamps are now available that can replace 54W lamps for energy savings and a boost in efficacy with no loss of light output. Second, amalgam T5 VHO lamps are now available. These lamps produce 7,200 lumens of initial light output, reaching 80% of light output about three minutes after startup. Using amalgam technology, light output is above 90% from 65°F to 170°F. Dimming, however, may not be recommended.
T5HO fixtures can be used in both hi- and lo-bay applications, depending on the application, and if correctly applied.
T5HO experience negligible color shift during operation
My question,
Doesn't it narrow it down to either T5HO or T5VHO when wiring from scratch anyways?
Anyone any experience with either of these?
Kind regards
I thought I might as well throw my question in here.
Halfway next month we will start building our workshop on the yard from scratch. (more details on that later in a separate thread)
About a year ago or so I did some research on which lighting to get in the shop. These are the notes I saved;
Shop lighting:
standard or electronic balasts?
always use electronic ballasts
electronic balasts don't buzz like crazy in cold conditions.
install a lot of fixtures and put them on a few switches so
you can power them up as needed
fluorescent, T5 HO
T5HO lamps are not interchangeable with T8, T12 and T5 lamps.
Optics are available with narrow and wide distributions. Wide distributions are best for lower mounting heights and general lighting areas, while narrow distributions are best for aisle and similar applications. Some fixtures offer a degree of uplight as well as direct downlight.
There are two recent developments of interest. First, 49-51W T5HO lamps are now available that can replace 54W lamps for energy savings and a boost in efficacy with no loss of light output. Second, amalgam T5 VHO lamps are now available. These lamps produce 7,200 lumens of initial light output, reaching 80% of light output about three minutes after startup. Using amalgam technology, light output is above 90% from 65°F to 170°F. Dimming, however, may not be recommended.
T5HO fixtures can be used in both hi- and lo-bay applications, depending on the application, and if correctly applied.
T5HO experience negligible color shift during operation
My question,
Doesn't it narrow it down to either T5HO or T5VHO when wiring from scratch anyways?
Anyone any experience with either of these?
Kind regards
tjbnwi
Member
- Joined
- May 12, 2008
- Messages
- 7,057
When wiring, if you know what fixtures are going to be installed it does help. Once you know the fixtures a lighting plan can be created (reflective ceiling). If the fixtures have not been chosen, the ceiling can still be prepped.
The cost of the T5 VHO fixture is about 5 times that of a T8. On hours per day would affect the ROI. I don't think it would pay off for Eric.
For those who don't know the 5-8-12 in the bulb number refers to diameter in 1/8's of an inch. A T5 is 5/8", a T8 is 1 Inch a T12 is 1 1/2". The 1/8's hold true in all bulb descriptions, a PAR-30 is 30- 1/8's of an inch (3 3/4") in diameter.
Tom
The cost of the T5 VHO fixture is about 5 times that of a T8. On hours per day would affect the ROI. I don't think it would pay off for Eric.
For those who don't know the 5-8-12 in the bulb number refers to diameter in 1/8's of an inch. A T5 is 5/8", a T8 is 1 Inch a T12 is 1 1/2". The 1/8's hold true in all bulb descriptions, a PAR-30 is 30- 1/8's of an inch (3 3/4") in diameter.
Tom
Only because of my heavy usage of lighting for aquariums I can tell you that Tom is absolutely correct about the cost differences in the T-5 versus T-8 fixtures. Additionally, if you are in a situation where you would need to have T-5 bulbs shipped to you - that is a disaster waiting to happen. The smaller diameter lamps are much more easily damaged.
Peter
Peter
E
ericbuggeln
Guest
Tom, in case no ones told you lately, youre a smart dude, Eric
tjbnwi
Member
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- May 12, 2008
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- 7,057
Thanks Eric. I no smarter than anyone else. I use light and its source in my designs.
I got one right now where I'm using XactBeam LED (they have replaceable lenses of varing angles) bulbs so I can get the light beams to fall at an exact spot. The bulbs CRI of the center bulb will be different than to two outer bulbs, I need the blend to get the proper light. Same job, the designer refuses to listen about a wall washer that needs to be installed to make a tile detail "pop" off the wall.
Working on a bathroom design where the light source is let into the back of cabinet face frames, they will illuminate the mirror(s) to prevent shadows from the facial topography. I may also use an onyx or glass top with lights below it. Very cool look.
For some reason, light is normally an after thought. It should be included from the first concept.
Tom
I got one right now where I'm using XactBeam LED (they have replaceable lenses of varing angles) bulbs so I can get the light beams to fall at an exact spot. The bulbs CRI of the center bulb will be different than to two outer bulbs, I need the blend to get the proper light. Same job, the designer refuses to listen about a wall washer that needs to be installed to make a tile detail "pop" off the wall.
Working on a bathroom design where the light source is let into the back of cabinet face frames, they will illuminate the mirror(s) to prevent shadows from the facial topography. I may also use an onyx or glass top with lights below it. Very cool look.
For some reason, light is normally an after thought. It should be included from the first concept.
Tom
E
ericbuggeln
Guest
UPDATE - i got the three four bulb T8 fixtures installed in the on bay. I installed the remaining four two bulb HD fixtures in the other bay. Obviously the first bay is much brighter, but its clear that once both bays are remodeled there will be an abundance of light in my shop. Just in time for he party, too, Eric
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