garage wall interior options

[treesner]

hey guys, going to insulate my 28x22’ garage shop soon and was planning on drywalling it. but then started thinking about it, having plywood would be better as you can screw stuff to it anywhere.  I also do a lot of photos / videos in the shop so want it to look good. Do you guys have any good options for interior siding? Was thinking about T1-11 painted white, anyone have photos of this?

 

[Peter_C]

3/4" plywood, not OSB, with 5/8" drywall over it. Will also help keep the neighbors in a peaceful state. The drywall makes it easy to seal up the garage for air movement. From there you can choose ventilation. Of course if you put your dust collector or air compressor outside the noise is a moot point.

Of note if it is an older home that hasn't been earthquake retrofited, now is the time to throw a few tension tie downs in on sistered studs with a top bracket, bigger plates on the bolts if currently only a washer, or bolts if an old home, and the plywood would be considered shear wall by the garage door no matter what. The year the house was built will mostly likely dictate what should be done, unless it is a well built custom home.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Raw wood, T1-11 or whatever, unsealed, will reduce swings in humidity.

 

[treesner]

3/4" plywood, not OSB, with 5/8" drywall over it. Will also help keep the neighbors in a peaceful state. The drywall makes it easy to seal up the garage for air movement. From there you can choose ventilation. Of course if you put your dust collector or air compressor outside the noise is a moot point.

Of note if it is an older home that hasn't been earthquake retrofited, now is the time to throw a few tension tie downs in on sistered studs with a top bracket, bigger plates on the bolts if currently only a washer, or bolts if an old home, and the plywood would be considered shear wall by the garage door no matter what. The year the house was built will mostly likely dictate what should be done, unless it is a well built custom home.

the detached garage was built in 1980 California (Sierra Nevadas), so guessing thats on the older side?

I'm on 2.5 acres and neighbors cant be seen through the trees but they did kind of give me that impression that they like to garden outside and like their quietness.. not sure I want to pay double for my garage interior for them though
 

 

[treesner]

Raw wood, T1-11 or whatever, unsealed, will reduce swings in humidity.

if its painted it will still have humidity swings?

 

[Michael Kellough]

Raw wood will absorb some of the vapor in the air when it’s high and release it when the air is dry but I just realized you’re in the Sierra Nevadas which is an alien climate to me. Humidity might not be an issue there?

Painted wood is pretty much sealed from the humidity.

 

[DeformedTree]

T-111 will always look like T-111, that's not good.  It is better than OSB, but that's not a big step up.

Do drywall over plywood, or nicer plywood/wood over lesser plywood.  I can't get into the idea of a place to do nice woodworking in would have ugly wood products surrounding it all.  Drywall gives you an ability to change and patch stuff.  Even some color.  Adds more thermal mass to help even out temp swings.

I would suggest taking a good look at getting the walls spray foamed first.  If it's a shop, and wide open the cost won't be that bad, but it will provide a vapor barrier without the potential issues of moisture trapped in the walls.  It will also stiffen things up.

If you are in an area with local saw mills where you might be able to get solid wood options cheap, maybe look at that.  Board and Batten, or lap joints. 

 

[treesner]

T-111 will always look like T-111, that's not good.  It is better than OSB, but that's not a big step up.

Do drywall over plywood, or nicer plywood/wood over lesser plywood.  I can't get into the idea of a place to do nice woodworking in would have ugly wood products surrounding it all.  Drywall gives you an ability to change and patch stuff.  Even some color.  Adds more thermal mass to help even out temp swings.

I would suggest taking a good look at getting the walls spray foamed first.  If it's a shop, and wide open the cost won't be that bad, but it will provide a vapor barrier without the potential issues of moisture trapped in the walls.  It will also stiffen things up.

I cant find any photos of painted t1-11 interior (probably have to hit with belt sander before installing but the look of this with the vertical lines is growing on me (I know that this is not t1-11 tho)

If you are in an area with local saw mills where you might be able to get solid wood options cheap, maybe look at that.  Board and Batten, or lap joints.

I cant find any photos of interior painted t1-11 (assuming I would have to belt sand before installing) but the look of the vertical lines painted white is growing on me

 

[tjbnwi]

I used LP SmartPanel.

The primed is a job I did for a client, you need to look past the doors to see the gray walls, in my garage back home.

Tom

 

[Peter_C]

No neighbors close by is very nice  8)

Huh, I didn't know Santa Cruz was in the Sierra Nevada's. I thought it was a surfing city on the coast

Plywood with paneling over the top? Could even do a wainscoting over drywall for a "look".

Back in 1980 they were just realizing how building for earthquakes was important, but didn't really start implementing major changes until circa 1985. A box with two door cutouts is about the worst design for earthquakes; think house of cards. I'd recommend just planning to earthquake retrofit it. When you look at the corners of the walls inside the framing you should see metal tie downs and bolts to the foundation often. If not, and I would guess not, spend many hundreds dollars and add some in. Often you will just see nails going down into the concrete through the mud sill. How fast can YOU  [scared] exit the building? Easy enough job though. Permitting is required per most counties, but it is an over the counter permit with drawings (Pretty sure on a garage you can use "Standard Plan A" and it could be just hand drawn). Shhhhh, is fine by me as any structural enhancement is beneficial and it is your own house.

A concrete drill can be rented for a short time, but you will need an epoxy gun ($65) or use a strong caulking gun for tube type epoxy to glue threaded rod into the holes. A way to cut the threaded rod like a grinder is necessary. Framing nailer will be needed for putting up the plywood shear walls. A nail every 4" around the outside of the plywood is too many nails to hand hammer, but if you enjoy hand hammering go for it. Minimum 5/8" plywood should be used for shear walls inside the framing, but 3/4" is better for screwing into as you desire. Plywood must be put up by the garage door opening as that is the weakest part of the garage. From there shear walls are needed near or all the way into the corners, on all sides. Sides with doors should be full plywood around the openings.

"Standard Plan A" will explain everything.http://resilience.abag.ca.gov/wp-content/documents/Plan-Set-A.pdf

Visual of a shear wall, but leave out the blocking at the bottom, as your mud sill should be good enough.

Here is a random article from googling "shear wall".https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2011/09/08/how-it-works-shear-walls

Each side of a shear wall, gets one of these "Hold downs" below. (DHC Supply has been awesome to work with in person over the years (They do internet sales too), and have great prices.)https://www.dhcsupplies.com/store/p/5796-S/HDU6-Cold-Formed-Steel-Holdown.html

 

[DeformedTree]

T-111 will always look like T-111, that's not good.  It is better than OSB, but that's not a big step up.

Do drywall over plywood, or nicer plywood/wood over lesser plywood.  I can't get into the idea of a place to do nice woodworking in would have ugly wood products surrounding it all.  Drywall gives you an ability to change and patch stuff.  Even some color.  Adds more thermal mass to help even out temp swings.

I would suggest taking a good look at getting the walls spray foamed first.  If it's a shop, and wide open the cost won't be that bad, but it will provide a vapor barrier without the potential issues of moisture trapped in the walls.  It will also stiffen things up.

I cant find any photos of painted t1-11 interior (probably have to hit with belt sander before installing but the look of this with the vertical lines is growing on me (I know that this is not t1-11 tho)

If you are in an area with local saw mills where you might be able to get solid wood options cheap, maybe look at that.  Board and Batten, or lap joints.

I cant find any photos of interior painted t1-11 (assuming I would have to belt sand before installing) but the look of the vertical lines painted white is growing on me

The board and batten look in the one photo is nice. Of course this can be done using plywood too.  Can be helpful if you will need ways to get behind the walls without much tear up.

 

[CeeJay]

I did mine lined with 3/4 ply. It’s super practical for mounting pretty much anything, does a good job of insulating noise, cold and heat, and pretty cost effective too.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[blaszcsj]

I did tongue and groove pine.
[attachimg=1]

 

[Cheese]

Nice work area Stan...I'm jealous.  [big grin]

That's pretty much the size of our entire house.  [popcorn]  Including the detached garage... [jawdrop]

 

[Stan Tillinghast]

Must be an interesting problem to have to worry about the garage wall interior finish; there will barely be any bare wall in the garage when I’m done building enough storage for what we have. It would help if the kids would take away their school papers my wife can’t bear to toss out. [crying]

 

[bruegf]

I put up a 24x50 with 12' walls pole barn a few years ago for a shop and storage and started with typar wrap on the outside of the wall under the steel sheeting.  Then left a 1" air space and installed radiant barrier, another 1" airspace, then 4" of styrofoam, another airspace and 5/8 osb, and finally covered with 1/2" drywall.

The osb allows me to hang most things anywhere I want and makes it unlikely to accidentally punch a hole through the drywall.  The drywall improves fire resistance and painted white gives me a nice bright work area.

I've got r49 insulation blown into the attic.

Even with weeks of temps at high 80s to mid 90s I've never had the temperature go above 74 degrees even though I don't have air conditioning.  For heat I've got an 18K btu ceiling mount shop heater than keeps the entire space at 55 degrees for about $20/month.

Fred

 

[Sparktrician]

T-111 will always look like T-111, that's not good.  It is better than OSB, but that's not a big step up.

T-111 also catches a whole bunch of sawdust, dirt, debris, spiderwebs, small children and dog hair. 

Do drywall over plywood, or nicer plywood/wood over lesser plywood.  I can't get into the idea of a place to do nice woodworking in would have ugly wood products surrounding it all.  Drywall gives you an ability to change and patch stuff. 

Hear, hear!!! 

 

[Kevin D.]

I put T1-11 inside my shop over the drywall.  I hit it with a belt sander to remove the burr face it comes as, and it has been there for 17 years now with no issues.

You don't see the seams from one panel to the next, it looks nice and cozy, and you can make previous holes to fasten things to disappear for the most part using wood filler. 

 

[greg mann]

Must be an interesting problem to have to worry about the garage wall interior finish; there will barely be any bare wall in the garage when I’m done building enough storage for what we have. It would help if the kids would take away their school papers my wife can’t bear to toss out. [crying]

Ahh, school papers. My mother gave some of mine when she moved into assisted living. My kids thought they were going to give me grief over my old report cards. When they looked at my grades, I just smiled. Easiest part of my life.

 

[junk731]

Wall covering depends on if you are a hobbyist looking for the pretty shop or a production shop looking for maximum function. There's lots of pretty shops pictured. Consider using 3/4 plywood up to 48" then using 3/4" Slotwall above instead of drywall and all the BS it entails. You can paint both and screw to them any where. That's along with all the useful hangers and shelf supports available. Both are relatively cheap and can take a good impact unlike typical pine tongue and groove.