Glue For Ipe

[greymann]

Thanks to everyone for all the great research and discussion, especially Kevin and Jack.  This topic came just in time for me.  I just finished a standalone Ipe deck at my house and am about to put the Ipe skirt around it.  I just ordered the G/flex and am really looking forward to finishing the project.

Also a while ago there was a thread on fasteners for Ipe.  I chose the Tiger Claw TS4 and found two things.  I love the finished look but the process was a real PITA and probably took two or three times as long as other less attractive methods.  I can see why an installer would hate these things.

Dick

 

[Kevin D.]

Thanks to everyone for all the great research and discussion, especially Kevin and Jack.  This topic came just in time for me.  I just finished a standalone Ipe deck at my house and am about to put the Ipe skirt around it.  I just ordered the G/flex and am really looking forward to finishing the project.

Also a while ago there was a thread on fasteners for Ipe.  I chose the Tiger Claw TS4 and found two things.  I love the finished look but the process was a real PITA and probably took two or three times as long as other less attractive methods.  I can see why an installer would hate these things.

Dick

What was the dillema with those fasteners, and why did you not go with what I had found to be the best one it seems in the IpeClip?

http://www.ipeclip.com/

Did you have a board straightening apparatus, and/or was that part of the problem of not using one would you say?

http://www.ipeclip.com/deck-tool/hardwood-wrench.html

 

[jacko9]

One other thing that I learned from West Systems was that they wipe the glue joint with alcohol instead of acetone before applying the G/flex.

I also bought another container of alcohol with my G/flex for the current project and will try it out when the dang temperature gets below 100 degrees!

 

[greymann]

Kevin,

Most of the decisions I made followed from the selection of Ipe I had here in Asheville.  The only slotted Ipe I found locally was 6 inch.  For a 10x16 deck, I liked the 3.5 inch look much better and it was not available preslotted and I didn't want to cut the slots especially for the dust that would create.  Of the choices for unslotted  fasteners, I chose the Tiger Claw. 

I found that I needed two straighteners and chose the Pony Board Boss for that.  The reason I needed two of them was that I often started a board in the middle to minimize the amount of board bending I would have to do.  I used 10 foot boards so the only cutting I had to do was to trim at the ends.  Then came the clamps.  Most people only talk about the bend in the boards and not the warp that is often there as well.  I wound up using an F-clamp on each joist and had to reposition each one as I fastened each side of the board.  That's why it took so much longer than putting down a PT deck with a bowrench and top screwing.

For me it was worth it but I can't see how an installer could keep from losing their shirt using these on a job.

Dick

 

[Misterbee]

This is a very timely topic for me, as I am about to do my first Ipe/Domino project. I have used both before, but never together. It's for a piece of outdoor furniture, so like everyone else, I am looking at the west system. I just ran across this, and I am wondering if anyone has tried it? http://www.glueoakandteak.com/

 

[greymann]

The ad seemed to me to have too many buzz words and hype and not enough content.  Go West young man.

Dick

 

[jacko9]

I tried the West Systems G/Flex epoxy yesterday and it flows a lot better than the System Three T88 epoxy that I purchased from Woodcraft.

I'll do some strength tests later this week after I get my new Furnace/Air Conditioning System installed in the house.

Jack

 

[PMA]

I just finished assembling a small end table in Ipe.  Left over bits from a deck.  I started glue up about 6 months ago with titebond2  without wipe down with anything other than a  tach cloth to remove dust and lost interest, due to a move and onslaught of work due to Hurricane Sandy  Did zero research as I was just killing time with this project.  It has 3 3/4x5" boards with biscuits  as a top, a square center leg with four pieces mitered and hollow center  and doubled up 3/4 feet.  Individually the pieces held up bouncing from spot to spot and a month floating in my van.  Ended up as a gift to my mother on mothers day.  No technical answer here but I am pleased with how its held up thus far.  No failures yet

 

[jacko9]

I just finished assembling a small end table in Ipe.  Left over bits from a deck.  I started glue up about 6 months ago with titebond2  without wipe down with anything other than a  tach cloth to remove dust and lost interest, due to a move and onslaught of work due to Hurricane Sandy  Did zero research as I was just killing time with this project.  It has 3 3/4x5" boards with biscuits  as a top, a square center leg with four pieces mitered and hollow center  and doubled up 3/4 feet.   Individually the pieces held up bouncing from spot to spot and a month floating in my van.  Ended up as a gift to my mother on mothers day.  No technical answer here but I am pleased with how its held up thus far.  No failures yet

Titebond 2 is what was recommended to me from the Titebond tech. staff and I used it to edge glue my rosewood table top without any problems.  However, I figure the Domino mortise and tenon joints between the legs and aprons will get much more racking stresses and the G/Flex seems like a good idea.  Time will tell is I "guessed correctly".

Jack

 

[Misterbee]

This is a very timely topic for me, as I am about to do my first Ipe/Domino project. I have used both before, but never together. It's for a piece of outdoor furniture, so like everyone else, I am looking at the west system. I just ran across this, and I am wondering if anyone has tried it? http://www.glueoakandteak.com/

Just a follow up to reort that the stuff was easy to work with, and six months later, the daybed I made out of Ipe and Dominos is sitting in my back yard, solid as a rock.

 

[zekerdale]

Sir get you some liquid epoxy you can find this online. Also get some powdered glue. Mix the two together 1 part epoxy to 2 parts glue dust.  This will do the trick for you., it worked well for me with ipe outdoor dining table. Their is a video on YouTube about this mixture. I think it can be stored up to six months after mixed.i will look for the video and put a link here when I find it, if you want something easier try gorilla glue the foamy kind.

 

[jacko9]

Sir get you some liquid epoxy you can find this online. Also get some powdered glue. Mix the two together 1 part epoxy to 2 parts glue dust.  This will do the trick for you., it worked well for me with ipe outdoor dining table. Their is a video on YouTube about this mixture. I think it can be stored up to six months after mixed.i will look for the video and put a link here when I find it, if you want something easier try gorilla glue the foamy kind.

I find your epoxy/dry glue intriguing and will give it a try but, I avoid gorilla glue and use Titebond II extend or Titebond III

I did some small experiments on oily woods Titebond III vs West Systems Epoxy and while not scientific, I always had wood fiber failure with Titebond whereas with Epoxy the joint failed at the interface.

Jack

Jack

 

[dgage]

I was just researching the gluing of Ipe and came across a recommendation for Tropical Hardwood Epoxy glue.  I will likely order a small amount for a few outdoor projects this summer.

http://www.smithandcompany.org/TropicalHardwoodEpoxy/

Question if I use the Domino though to butt joint two long boards.  Should I use the Domino with the tight setting on one side/board and the slightly looser mortise on the adjoining board?  Thanks.

David

 

[greg mann]

I was just researching the gluing of Ipe and came across a recommendation for Tropical Hardwood Epoxy glue.  I will likely order a small amount for a few outdoor projects this summer.

http://www.smithandcompany.org/TropicalHardwoodEpoxy/

Question if I use the Domino though to butt joint two long boards.  Should I use the Domino with the tight setting on one side/board and the slightly looser mortise on the adjoining board?  Thanks.

David

I try to keep the joints at the narrow settings on all mortices if I can. My logic: Less room for water ingress if the domino and glue fill the mortice. This means careful marking but I genreally just mark both boards at the same time without moving the setup. I have done at least five dominoes with the tight setting and have had no problem. I always dry fit to make sure though, at least when I use more than two. I do about 75% of my cuts by just lining up on a pencil mark on each board. YMMV

 

[w802h]

Although more plunges offer the opportunity for more error, I've had good success using the tight fit for one side and a double plunge on either side of a pencil mark on the other.  This gives a pretty tight mortise with just enough forgiveness to make things easy.