Glue for sipo dominos in solid teak

[Mismarked]

I am building an outdoor teak buffet.  For the apron, the two end parts will have a frame and panel using 1.25" thick by 2" rails and stiles.  The front and rear apron is 3/4" material.  All solid teak.  Looking for suggestions on three things.
  1.  For the end pieces of the apron, would it be better to use 2 small sipo dominos side by side instead of one larger/longer one.
  2.  For the domino joints, West systems epoxy or Titebond III?  I glued up 1.25" stock to make 2.25" by 2.25" legs using the epoxy, and it worked nicely, but I sometimes make a mess with gluing up domino joints.  I was going to clean the wood with acetone before doing the glue up, so maybe i could just clean up any squeeze out with acetone as well before it cures.
  3.  Is it a bad thing to do all of the domino joints with the medium instead of narrow setting, and if I do that would it be better to use epoxy for its gap filling properties.
  Any suggestions would be appreciated.  Thanks.

 

[jdm5]

I don't have a definitive answer to your questions - but I'll throw out this link:
Half inch shy extra wide dominos

I used this recently on a Ipe outdoor bench and it worked great.  Made ~52mm wide 6mm dominos at 56mm deep using my Domino 500.  The apron material was ~20mm thick - I plunged 28mm (deepest the 500 can do) on both sides.

Perhaps this helps?  I thought it was brilliant.

 

[leakyroof]

I use titebond 3 pretty all the time for Outdoor Domino/Sipo work. It will swell up the joint and hold usually with no failures for me at all. I Have used Epoxy as an additional adhesive near a Domino Joint or I've used Gorilla Glue on some Teak table work where there wasn't any Domino work in the first place as a major repair to how the table was made in the first place.

 

[rebelson]

1 - Use 2 smaller dominos rather than 1 big one.

2 -  Titebond III would be my go to choice when it comes to building outdoor furniture. It has a fairly slow set time (about 10 minutes) so it's great when you need to put several parts together and then clamp them. Yes, you can use the West System, but as you even said it's messy, and lets not forget expensive. You may want to wipe some acetone on each joint prior to gluing to remove any surface oils from the teak to increase the glue bond.

3 - How about one side of the joint is done with the loose setting while the other side is done with the narrow? You don't need to worry about filling the larger gap seeing as the most important part of the joint is the sides of the domino sitting tight and not the ends being tight. A good slip fit on the domino sides with a good adhesive all over the 2 mating surfaces and Domino will be more than adequate.

 

[Holmz]

I would use 2 smaller ones.
http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/gluing-oily-tropical-hardwoods/

Hence you idea of some acetone is good.
And West Systems is also a good choice.

I would make them narrow/tight, or at least the ones in the middle tight.

 

[lambeater]

I used titebond III on my Cumaru patio table I just built (see in forum post) and seems to be holding well. Cleaned surface with acetone first and also made 8mm dominoes from Cumaru.

Lambeater

 

[Xoncention]

I am building an outdoor teak buffet.  For the apron, the two end parts will have a frame and panel using 1.25" thick by 2" rails and stiles.  The front and rear apron is 3/4" material.  All solid teak.  Looking for suggestions on three things.
  1.  For the end pieces of the apron, would it be better to use 2 small sipo dominos side by side instead of one larger/longer one.
  2.  For the domino joints, West systems epoxy or Titebond III?  I glued up 1.25" stock to make 2.25" by 2.25" legs using the epoxy, and it worked nicely, but I sometimes make a mess with gluing up domino joints.  I was going to clean the wood with acetone before doing the glue up, so maybe i could just clean up any squeeze out with acetone as well before it cures.
  3.  Is it a bad thing to do all of the domino joints with the medium instead of narrow setting, and if I do that would it be better to use epoxy for its gap filling properties.
  Any suggestions would be appreciated.  Thanks.

The best adhesive for Teak is use epoxy or resorcinol adhesives. Make sure to scrub all the wood to be joined with acetone, and let it dry before gluing.  Titebond III is primarily a proprietary polymer and whilst good for external applications, it can show if the joint is not completely sealed.  See this article :-https://www.wagnermeters.com/working-with-teak/  also seehttp://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/gluing-oily-tropical-hardwoods/

 

[katoosh525]

For the glue, if you have not tried the Smiths Oak and Teak epoxy, give it a go. Designed for the oily woods you won't need an acetone wipe, gap filling like all epoxies, it is pretty much made for the job. Oak and Teak Epoxy. This is just my favourite epoxy, slow cure, permanently waterproof and massive strength.

 

[Nat X]

And if you do find yourself opting for epoxy, these things make mixing up small batches a whole lot less annoying:
http://www.michaelengineering.com/Pumps/Manual/StickyStuffDispenser/

 

[Kevin D.]

If you do decide to go with WS, use the GFlex product.  Almost all the strength of their reg epoxy but has 32 times the elasticity which can withstand the extremes of wood movement in an outdoor application.  Cover areas prone to spillover with painters tape.  That stuff is nasty messy.  The GFlex dries to a dark amber color.