Good quality pinner

grbmds said:
I'm confused regarding holding power. I have never used a pin to "hold" per se; only to temporarily tack in place while the glue dried.

You're right, pins are more of a temporary tack in place. But, used correctly they can be used to "hold". Frequently when I'm attaching molding of some type, I shoot the pins on an oblique angle and even in opposite oblique angles to lock what I'm attaching in place. And, despite being headless, the thicker a pin is, the more "grip" it has on the structure it's embedded in. That was what I was suggesting when I said they had more 'holding' power.
 
Shawn said:
Hey guys senco just came out with one. I was presented it a few days ago. I am debating stocking it. I love the concept, however I would have to stock all new sizes of brads for this gun. The new senco gun looks exactly like a 23g pin nailer. I am wondering how much demand there would be for this tool. Hmmmm. I was debating ordering it, but I told the rep to bring one in. I want to see and play with it first.

Hi Shawn, I haven't talked to you for awhile. When the rep brings one in and you test it, if you can, compare a 21g pin hole to a 23g pin hole to see if there's much obvious difference. Very closely sized pin holes would give the advantage to the 21g gun with a little more holding power.
 
justinh said:
With headed 21 gauge brads (slight head pin) the holding power is better than a 23 gauge brad.  In many situations they  can be substituted for an 18 gauge brad.  The nails hold well for the leading edge of casing, larger wood moulding attached to casework like crown or base build ups, heavier panel moulding, base shoe, scotia, etc.  With longer nails I have used it to run base cap after doing a test to see how difficult it was to pull off.  In most of these situations I would have used and 18 gauge for the additional holding power vs. a 23 gauge which would not be enough.  The holes are much easier to touch up than an 18 gauge.  I would not feel comfortable fastening wood through sheet rock with this gun unless the walls were very flat, the moulding was light and thin, and it was backed with adhesive. Even then I might think twice.

Justinh:
Thanks for your explanation, very informative. Looks like I will have to get one. I was using my 18 gauge ('cause I ran out of miter bond) on a small kitchen abortion fix and wasn't happy with the size of the holes in the stained trim. Even after I filled the holes with colored epoxy, they were still too visible.
Tim
 
Okay...I just used my Grex pinner to dry-hold a 64"x32" - 1/4" ply upside down and it held it long enough for me to measure and cut 4 supporting legs into the corners. But, after two hours, the pins started to loosen on the sides, so I needed to use 18 gauge pins to hold it up. So far, two days later, it is still holding.  If it doesn't hold permanently, then I will either use 16 gauge or staples. In this application, I don't think that a 21 gauge would have held either.
I say use 23 gauge and glue or for your work. Or, for certain things a larger gauge. I was recently in a friend's home who is a billionaire with at least a million dollars work of mahogany woodwork on the walls and ceilings on the first floor. The work is exquisite. The woodworker used 16 gauge pins all over the place. I think that I am the only one who would have noticed this, but it cheapened the work, for me.
 
NYC Tiny Shop said:
The work is exquisite. The woodworker used 16 gauge pins all over the place. I think that I am the only one who would have noticed this.

Ya, I am my worst critic, and the customer probably won't notice but some stuff just bugs me.
Tim
 
Tim Raleigh said:
NYC Tiny Shop said:
The work is exquisite. The woodworker used 16 gauge pins all over the place. I think that I am the only one who would have noticed this.

Ya, I am my worst critic, and the customer probably won't notice but some stuff just bugs me.
Tim

Yes, my first reaction was, "What?  All that incredible woodwork and me seeing heads?"
 
For those interested a comparison of the nail holes between a 23gauge slight head brad, 21 gauge slight head brad, and an 18 gauge brad.  For scale the moulding is Windsor One Craftsman FJP head cap and the picture was taken from about 2' away.

 

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What I getting at is do the 23 gauge pinner/brad nailers leave a bigger hole that the 23 gauge pinner only guns when shooting the pins ? Savvey.
 
To my eye the hole size is the same.  The hole size is determined more by the size of the driver than the nail head.  I notice a hole size difference between my Hitachi pinner and the Fasco when shooting headless.  The Fasco has a finer tip.
 
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