Good rasps and files

avanderhoorn

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Jan 26, 2015
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Does anyone have any really good rasps and files they like? I've got a combination of Lie-Nielsen chisels/planes and Dlen Drake hammers/gauges/etc atm and looking for rasps and files to match. I saw these ones=26m41s the other day, which looked nice, but not sure what brand they are. Any thoughts in general?
 
Nicholson files are really not what they were. I wouldn't recommend them. I use grobet files for saw sharpening and I have three auriou rasps for wood shaping. The aurious are expensive but you only need a couple and they work amazingly. Leap of faith but one you won't regret.
 
The longer rasp in the video looks a lot like one I have from Sandvik, not exactly but very close. He took the upright handle off which can also be done with mine. All my files and rasps are from Sandvik and Bahco (one firm now). Just a decent brand, nothing fancy, but not bad at all.

How much quality do you need actually from a file or rasp, they're for rough work mostly, and the only precision that matters is the precision that comes from your own eyes and hands. The steel must be a decent quality so they don't dull too fast.   
 
You're right, they don't need to be that fancy for anything, it was more just if there was any general recommendations of ones that are comfortable, get the job done and wear well.
 
The files with the frame that the guy in the Youtube video is using look like Stanley Surform "files" or "rasps". I've used those in the past and they really didn't impress me. If you do want something similar to the Surform tools though, I would recommend the ones made by Microplane. The idea is similar, but the method and design work better. The price on the Microplane files is also fairly reasonable.

http://us.microplane.com/microplanewoodworkinghandtools.aspx

The other tools he used might have been course files or rasps, I had a hard time telling from the video. With files there are a number of different types made for filing different materials. The best files for woodworking may be "dreadnought" or Millenicut" style files. These have large teeth designed for removing material quickly, and were routinely sold for filing soft materials like lead. The tooth configuration is probably closer to the Floats Lie-Nielsen sells than a regular file. The Dreadnought files have a curved tooth design and the Millenicut files use a straight tooth design. The name for the files varies by region. In the US the files are sometimes called "Vixen" files after one brand name. Nicholson calls their version "Supercut" files. Iwasaki is a japanese manufacturer who makes a similar type of file but possibly with a slightly different tooth design.

Whatever you buy, I wouldn't recommend regular machine cut rasps. They may work OK for soft woods like pine, but the performance and material removal rate is nowhere near as good as a patternmakers rasp. The best rasps are usually hand cut, and give a high material removal rate combined with a fairly smooth surface finish. The best currently made one may be the hand cut ones made by  Auriou or Logier in France. Vallorbe makes machine cut rasps that mimic the quality of the hand cut rasps but are slightly more reasonable in price. Vallorbe also makes regular machine cut rasps so you have to check which ones you're purchasing. This article mentions some others that may also be good.

https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/half-round-cabinet-rasps
 
Rip Van Winkle said:
The files with the frame that the guy in the Youtube video is using look like Stanley Surform "files" or "rasps".

You're right. The one I have is a Stanley and not a Sandvik. I mixed it up a bit.  [embarassed]

It works fine for me. It's a frame with a rasp blade you can replace once it's dull.
 
avanderhoorn said:
You're right, they don't need to be that fancy for anything, it was more just if there was any general recommendations of ones that are comfortable, get the job done and wear well.

The french rasps I mentioned come with handles, as do the Microplane rasps, most other files don't though you have to purchase the handles separately.

The Lutz wood file handles are one of the standard types usually available.

http://www.mainewoodconcepts.com/index.php?id=511&sub_id=523

Skroo-Zon is another standard type.

http://www.mainewoodconcepts.com/index.php?id=511&sub_id=519

Lie-Nielsen makes a nice wood file handle.

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/file-rasp-handles/file-rasp-handles-lie-nielsen-rasp-handles-?node=4156

PB Swiss makes some nice handles out of Cellulose Acetate Butyrate in a variety of colors.

http://www.shop.pbtools.us/PB-1200-Ergonomic-File-Handles_c269.htm
 
Alex said:
Rip Van Winkle said:
The files with the frame that the guy in the Youtube video is using look like Stanley Surform "files" or "rasps".

You're right. The one I have is a Stanley and not a Sandvik. I mixed it up a bit.  [embarassed]

It works fine for me. It's a frame with a rasp blade you can replace once it's dull.

I've tried using the Surform rasps alongside one from Microplane, as well as a good patternmakers rasp and a machine cut rasp. The patternmakers rasp was an older USA made Nicholson, and it out performed the others by a longshot. Next was probably the Microplane. You can get Microplane inserts for surform frames which might be a better option since the Microplane rasps can sometimes seem a bit "flexy". I used the surform rasps on hard maple and really wasn't impressed.
 
Alex said:
How much quality do you need actually from a file or rasp, they're for rough work mostly, and the only precision that matters is the precision that comes from your own eyes and hands. The steel must be a decent quality so they don't dull too fast. 

I think it's fair to add that you can use them for very precise and final work. I tend to rough out the shape on a bandsaw, then refine the shape with my grain 10 cabinetmaker's rasp, next I go to my modeller's rasp (13 grain) for a few passes and finish with 220 grit sandpaper and that's me done.

However, it's important if you are using a rasp for finishing work that they be hand-stitched so each tooth cuts its own path. If they are machine-cut the teeth lie in lines and end up following each other and laying deeper scratch marks. Rasps are one type of tool where it really is worth it to buy the better more expensive type.
 
I love my Liogier rasps. Hand stitched, nice handles and Noel is great to deal with. Highly recommended!
 
Thanks for all the feedback! Now I think I have a (g)"rasp"  [big grin] on which brands I should be looking at and the fact that hand cut ones are what I need to be looking at.

The next thing is looking at which types/"no." rasps and files would be a good few to start out with. Obviously the sky is the limit and there are ones for ever type of use case, but I'm wondering what are the general must haves and ones that I would get the most use out of.
 
I have a 10" 11 grain and a 10" 13 grain. Both are right-handed- you need to make sure you get right- or left-handed rasps depending on your dominant hand as you cut slightly diagonally. These are the only two I have and the only ones I have needed so far. So although you can go crazy and buy a load more, it isn't necessary and with only these two you can go from bandsaw rough-cut to a quick pass with 220 grit sandpaper to finish.

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/cabinet-makers-rasps/cabinet-makers-rasps-10-inch-cabinet-grain-11-?node=4151

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/modellers-rasps/modellers-rasps-10-inch-modellers-grain-11-?node=4159

 
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