Got a Domino under my belt!

[stidrvr]

I finally got my first Festool after about 5 years. My woodworking really hasn't amounted to anything yet. Mainly just home remodel projects, but I currently have a decent stable of tools. Contractor saw (Rigid TS3650), Miter saw, fixed base router etc. Im currently using a shopvac with a cleave cyclone and although its not a CT it will have to do for now. Future plan is to pick up a CT with a sander as a combo. Im looking at a little over $1000, give or take a $100, to invest and Im pretty dead set on the OF1400. I was thinking of using the balance to pick up something else, maybe a TS55 or the Domino assortment. I have an okay Dewalt sander that does the job for now, but the only thing I don't have is a plunge router, and a router with good dust collection. Both of these are taken care of with the OF1400. One idea I thought of today was to pick up a planer (lunch box or DW735). There have already been a couple of times where it would have been nice to thickness down some boards from the home center. Plus I'll be building new doors and drawer front for our cabinets out of poplar and it would be nice to buy the lumber in the rough. Obviously Id use a sled to joint with the planer.

Anyway, I figured I would come ask you guys for a little advice as to what to do next?

 

[jacko9]

I think you need to buy a Jointer before you buy a planer.  If you get even slightly "warped or twisted" lumber from the home store and run it through the planer all you will have is thinner "warped or twisted"  lumber.  A Jointer gives you a true flat surface and a 90 degree edge which you use to run through a planer to get a parallel piece of straight lumber which you then run through some rip saw to get four sided dimensioned lumber.  Keep in mind that every time you cut wood, "it moves" and you need to allow for this as you creep up on your final dimension.

Jack

 

[stidrvr]

I think you need to buy a Jointer before you buy a planer.  If you get even slightly "warped or twisted" lumber from the home store and run it through the planer all you will have is thinner "warped or twisted"  lumber.  A Jointer gives you a true flat surface and a 90 degree edge which you use to run through a planer to get a parallel piece of straight lumber which you then run through some rip saw to get four sided dimensioned lumber.  Keep in mind that every time you cut wood, "it moves" and you need to allow for this as you creep up on your final dimension.

Jack

Hmm, I see your point but after you joint the twisted and warped board you're still left with one face that will be twisted and warped. If you flip the board over and try to joint the other side, theres no guarantee that the two faces will be parallel. Now using a planer with a sled to joint, you're able to support the high spots of the warped and twisted board on the sled. The sled then gets run through the planer making the top side of the board flat. The board is removed from the sled flipped over and ran through the planer making the other side parallel. A trip to the table saw squares off the edges. Using a sled and a planer is essentially turn a planer into an inverted jointer.

 

[Stone Message]

I think you need to buy a Jointer before you buy a planer.  If you get even slightly "warped or twisted" lumber from the home store and run it through the planer all you will have is thinner "warped or twisted"  lumber.  A Jointer gives you a true flat surface and a 90 degree edge which you use to run through a planer to get a parallel piece of straight lumber which you then run through some rip saw to get four sided dimensioned lumber.  Keep in mind that every time you cut wood, "it moves" and you need to allow for this as you creep up on your final dimension.

Jack

You can get planer/jointers which combine both tasks. I have a Jet and it is brilliant and very easy to change from one role to the other.

Peter

 

[wrightwoodwork]

I think you need to buy a Jointer before you buy a planer.  If you get even slightly "warped or twisted" lumber from the home store and run it through the planer all you will have is thinner "warped or twisted"  lumber.  A Jointer gives you a true flat surface and a 90 degree edge which you use to run through a planer to get a parallel piece of straight lumber which you then run through some rip saw to get four sided dimensioned lumber.  Keep in mind that every time you cut wood, "it moves" and you need to allow for this as you creep up on your final dimension.

Jack

Hmm, I see your point but after you joint the twisted and warped board you're still left with one face that will be twisted and warped. If you flip the board over and try to joint the other side, theres no guarantee that the two faces will be parallel. Now using a planer with a sled to joint, you're able to support the high spots of the warped and twisted board on the sled. The sled then gets run through the planer making the top side of the board flat. The board is removed from the sled flipped over and ran through the planer making the other side parallel. A trip to the table saw squares off the edges. Using a sled and a planer is essentially turn a planer into an inverted jointer.

e
That to me seems the most impractical way of working every board will have a different twist so you are going to shim each board individually working like that is not the real world ok maybe for a hobbiest. I would urge you if you are serious about woodworking is to look at a combination machine like the jet as peter suggests or any others in your price range. In the real world timber is always faced first so flat and no twist then face side runs along the fence to square and straighten with the bow facing up same with the face side. Then the depth or height is set to the largest height and is worked up as you work. All the pieces to be thicknessed at that size get done then the thicknesser gets moved upto the next size and all the pieces at that dimension get done

 

[jacko9]

I think you need to buy a Jointer before you buy a planer.  If you get even slightly "warped or twisted" lumber from the home store and run it through the planer all you will have is thinner "warped or twisted"  lumber.  A Jointer gives you a true flat surface and a 90 degree edge which you use to run through a planer to get a parallel piece of straight lumber which you then run through some rip saw to get four sided dimensioned lumber.  Keep in mind that every time you cut wood, "it moves" and you need to allow for this as you creep up on your final dimension.

Jack

Hmm, I see your point but after you joint the twisted and warped board you're still left with one face that will be twisted and warped. If you flip the board over and try to joint the other side, theres no guarantee that the two faces will be parallel. Now using a planer with a sled to joint, you're able to support the high spots of the warped and twisted board on the sled. The sled then gets run through the planer making the top side of the board flat. The board is removed from the sled flipped over and ran through the planer making the other side parallel. A trip to the table saw squares off the edges. Using a sled and a planer is essentially turn a planer into an inverted jointer.

I mentioned above that once you have one side flat on the Jointer you flip it over and get the parallel side on the planer which has pressure bars and rollers that hold the flat (joined side) against the planer bed while cutting the board flat and parallel.  As Peter mentions combination machines are available and have been used for many years and are really useful for folks with a small shop area.

Keep in mind some wood keeps moving while you attempt to straighten it, you need to be careful to take the approximate amount of material off each side of the board or after a few hours you'll have warped wood again!

Jack

 

[stidrvr]

I think you need to buy a Jointer before you buy a planer.  If you get even slightly "warped or twisted" lumber from the home store and run it through the planer all you will have is thinner "warped or twisted"  lumber.  A Jointer gives you a true flat surface and a 90 degree edge which you use to run through a planer to get a parallel piece of straight lumber which you then run through some rip saw to get four sided dimensioned lumber.  Keep in mind that every time you cut wood, "it moves" and you need to allow for this as you creep up on your final dimension.

Jack

Hmm, I see your point but after you joint the twisted and warped board you're still left with one face that will be twisted and warped. If you flip the board over and try to joint the other side, theres no guarantee that the two faces will be parallel. Now using a planer with a sled to joint, you're able to support the high spots of the warped and twisted board on the sled. The sled then gets run through the planer making the top side of the board flat. The board is removed from the sled flipped over and ran through the planer making the other side parallel. A trip to the table saw squares off the edges. Using a sled and a planer is essentially turn a planer into an inverted jointer.

I mentioned above that once you have one side flat on the Jointer you flip it over and get the parallel side on the planer which has pressure bars and rollers that hold the flat (joined side) against the planer bed while cutting the board flat and parallel.  As Peter mentions combination machines are available and have been used for many years and are really useful for folks with a small shop area.

Keep in mind some wood keeps moving while you attempt to straighten it, you need to be careful to take the approximate amount of material off each side of the board or after a few hours you'll have warped wood again!

Jack

Yup, you're right, my bad. But that really creates a problem since I don't have either. You can plane and joint with a planer, but not with a jointer, at least not very easily.

 

[jacko9]

Let's see, not to be contrary but you can't joint with a planer since the bed rolls and feed rolls all move and the planer bed is just too short.  However, if you had a Jointer you could flatten one side reference off that flat surface and use your marking gauge to mark a parallel side.  You can then use your 26" long "hand plane" and get a parallel board.  I know this works because that's how I finished boards before I could afford a planer (of course beer was 25 cents a mug back then) [wink].

Jack