Guidance needed for router/router table

[Coliban]

Hello,

i am thinking about this topic for over a week and maybe i´m finally have found a solution, but the unspoken and unknown amendment  which says "Thou shalt not buy a (fest)tool without consulting FOG or it will be in vain". is an imperative  (for me).

I have MFT/3 and OF1010 which i use for mobile work. But now i need a router table because i have to cut a channel a long several meters of wooden border for led strips.The wooden edge is about 38mm (1,5 inch?) and the LED strip is 15mm (1,1 inch?) broad.

I have several choices:

1) I could only buy a CMS GE (standalone, four legs) : 452€, 560$ and CMS OF 515€, 634$ = 1194$
2) A 1400 Set (OF1400 + CMS GE + CMS OF) 1348€ :  1661$
3) A 2200 Set (OF2200 + CMS GE + CMS OF) 1538$ : 1895$

4) How about a the MFT/3 VL, the extension to the table, it would have the advantage that it could be mounted directly to the MFT/3 so that maybe would gain some space and would be more compact? Price is nearly the same as with the CMS GE.

Now, i could save some hundreds € if i would buy the big set for 1895$. The other strategy, the much more cheaper one would cost only 1194$ but then i am only able to use the OF1010 (which i already own). On the one hand i would save about 700$, on the other i would pay only 700$ more for a OF 2200 if i would buy the set.

I think i would choose the cheap option with the purpose to buy the OF2200 some other day or year but i would also like to own the big one...

What would you do?

Thank you!
(and forgive my bad english)

Picture is about the kitchen i am building

 

[ear3]

Since you already have the 1010, I would recommend going for the 2200.  You do of course gain additional functionality and power with the 1400 over the 1010, but you push your game to the next level with the 2200.  And since you seem to want to add the 2200 at some point, why not now?

Can't help you when it comes to which of the CMS sets you should get, but I would add for your consideration the option of going with another manufacturer for dedicated table routing.  You could buy a decent router table set-up and a 3.25 Triton router (which has uabove the table adjustment and bit changing, thus removing the need for a router lift) for less than the price of the 2200, or the price of the 1400 fully loaded with accessories.  You would then have the money to buy the 2200 and you would end up spending basically the same amount as you would on the CMS set and the 2200 (at least in the States -- not sure if this also holds for DE).  It is worth it in my opinion to have a dedicated table router so that you don't have to waste time fiddling with attaching and removing the machine from the table.

I know there are some on the FOG that use the CMS as their shop-bound router table, but unless you're going to be mobile, I think you might derive just as much if not more functionality from a sturdier, more traditional router table.  The only thing you sacrifice really is the nifty sliding gauge for end/cope cuts, which can, however, be replicated on most decent tables through the miter slot.

EDIT: Since you are in Europe, I suppose an additional factor that might make the CMS attractive is the possibility of adding additional inserts for the TS, BS, or jigsaw -- items which we don't have direct access to in the States, unfortunately.  But I still say get the 2200!

 

[Birdhunter]

If you have room for a dedicated (not mobile) router table, I think that is a better solution than the Festool router table. I have a shop full of Festool products so I am a real fan of their tools.

I find the Festool router table is too small for many of my routing tasks, the fence is rudimentary, and the table is a little shaky. I think the best feature is the sliding miter.

There are a lot of really great router table kits, great fences, and great lifts. I use a Porter Cable router motor in a lift and it provides ample power for every thing I run through it.

If I had to have a mobile router table and could deal with a small work top and a so so fence, I'd buy the Festool unit.

 

[Coliban]

Birdhunter and ear3, thank you for your recommendations!

I´ve already though about a router table from a third party supplier like Incra (not metric?)  or Trend or someone in europe. It should be something metric. But in my thoughts, the Festool tools would provide a consistent system where everything would fit together and on the other hand, which i forgot to mention, i have to be mobile because in my home i have not enough space so i would have to always put i somewhere after finishing work. And in my second flat on the picture, i have no space at all. I have to transport the tools to that flat, when i am finished, i take them back.

I i look to the Trend router table (PRT) it is not much cheaper than a Festool solution. And it is not specified for Festool. If i would find a rouetr table ready for Festool, i would take it into consideration, but until now the only general solution is that from Festool.

 

[Birdhunter]

i view of your situation, I'd buy the Festool router table.

 

[Harvey]

I made a new router table top for my MFT:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/mft3-router-table/msg296369/#msg296369
Although heavy it uses the MFT mounting points so it's easily replaced with the orginal top.
I've built up the underside supports since I made it to prevent sagging.
Also the Inrca LS positioners are sold in metric versions:http://www.incrementaltools.com/category_s/255.htm 

 

[Peter_C]

I have MFT/3 and OF1010 which i use for mobile work. But now i need a router table because i have to cut a channel a long several meters of wooden border for led strips.The wooden edge is about 38mm (1,5 inch?) and the LED strip is 15mm (1,1 inch?) broad.

If it were me, I would grab my OF1010 router, the 15mm-16mm or so bit, lay a rail out where I want to cut and use the router I already own. If you don't own the attachment for the router to the rail, just flip the rail around and put the router against the backside of the rail (Which is my preference). It will do an excellent job!

If you don't already own a tracksaw rail, most anything that is straight will work, just clamp it down.

Another option is to use an edge guide.https://www.amazon.com/Festool-489427-Parallel-Guide-Router/dp/B001JBDKQ0

 

[Coliban]

Haha, Harvey,

i was just searching the internet for a combination Festool - Incra because i heard that Incra is a bit more accurate. Now i am thinking about a CMS GE as an addendum for the MFT/3 and the plate from the OF system. But then i would have to search and order so many parts from the EKAT that maybe it would be better to purchase the whole ?

Then it would be: CMS-OF plus MFT/3 VL = 921€ = 1134$

Plus Incra System: 360€ = 443$

That would be 1577$ and i had only the OF1010 
If i would buy additional to that an OF2200 for 760€, 936$ in sum it would be: 2513$

The pure Festool Solution would be: 2200 Set (OF2200 + CMS GE + CMS OF) 1538€ : 1895$
On the other hand, If i would add to the 1895$ the Incra solution i would pay 2338$ which would still be a beat cheaper ( 175$)

Hmm. Hmm

 

[Harvey]

The Incra was discussed here:http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/mft-upgrade!-incra-ls-positioner-incremental-system-vs-table-saw-fence-on-mft3/

Some of the early pictures have disappeared, but there's enough left to give an idea.

 

[Harvey]

I think given your position I would try the LV addition for your MFT; it has a larger work surface than the GE, but the same weight. Then you can decide at a later time to buy the Incra fence system. 

 

[Gregor]

Building something from the parts (EKAT) is most times more expensive than buying a complete set.

I would suggest to not go with the VL but get the CMS.

Reasoning: You can use the CMS on it's own or near the MFT (and use that as in- or outfeed), you can fold the GE with a plate attached (and machine mounted) - both dosn't work with the -VL.

In case you have some intermittend spare money and are not sure that you actually need Festool stuff long-term: get the stuff, do with it what you have to, sell it afterwards for 80%+ NIB price (or even above that) on ebay kleinanzeigen.

Reminder: In case you're Mehrwertsteuerabzugsfähig it dosn't make much sense to buy Festool stuff used (unless it's maximum 60% of lowest google shopping search for NIB brutto price) - most used Festool stuff offered here in Germany is priced at (or even higher than) what you would have to spend NIB (including delivery to your doorstep, with 3 years warranty), just look around a bit who sells it cheapest at the moment (google shopping often does it, trawling the first 3-4 pages of the normal results can bring the price down even more, or a call to some dealers in case you want to spend some k€ for several things in one go).

About your current problem with the slot for the LED strips: you can do that very easy and precise with the OF1010 and a rail (which I guess you have for the red plunge saw).

 

[Coliban]

Thanks a lot for your suggestions!

I’ve read your links about the Incra system ([member=15578]Harvey[/member], your solution is very nice!) and I would prefer it over the Festool CMS OF but then I would have no compact solution. It would be very good for stationary work but since I am moving around and have no shop at home, it must be compact and mobile.

Yes I have enough rails from both, Mafel and Festool but I can’t imagine how to cut a channel to the narrow side of a  bar which is 38mm (about 1,5 inch).

So maybe I should stay with the TF 2200 set and I try to ring up a dealer tomorrow.

But it would also be an good alternative to only get the cms of and the GE and try it with the of 1010 since I have no other big project than the kitchen this year. Ok, some furniture, but I am not sure if I need the OF 2200 so badly for it. Ok, i would love to have it, but sometimes it is better to keep cool...

Good night and thank you so much for your advices!

(Have to sleep over this problem)

 

[Gregor]

Yes I have enough rails from both, Mafel and Festool but I can’t imagine how to cut a channel to the narrow side of a bar which is 38mm (about 1,5 inch).

A drawing of the workpiece might help us understand the exact problem. Creative clamping (set the workpiece flush with other stuff to create a surface big enough for work with the rail, in this case) often is a good solution.

 

[Peter_C]

I can’t imagine how to cut a channel to the narrow side of a  bar which is 38mm (about 1,5 inch).

Edge guide! It really is that easy...watch this video, and just don't make the cuts as deep. Your OF1010 will do a 15mm-16mm cut no problem. They won't need to be very deep, as the LED strips are pretty thin. If you do not have the bit of perfect width, you can use a narrower bit and just make two passes to widen it.


Now you want to buy a CMS or whatever, just go buy one.

Here is another option which is to drill some small holes in your MFT and mount the router, then use the fence you already have.

 

[Coliban]

Peter_C thank you for the comment.

I´ve already cut several meters of mortises. But is was for my wood storage and furniture outside and so. The OF1010 is a very accurate machine but because the work is for inside furniture it has to be "perfect". The video you posted was with the OF 1400 which is heavier than the 1010. The less weight such a machine has, the more difficulties i have to get an accurate mortise over a length of 2 oder 3 meter on a 38mm broad beam. And even with the guard, the power of the machine dwelling in the wood will lead to some sort of  inexactness which i can´t  tolerate for inside furniture.

I think the easiest way is at least a router table. I thought about it and Peter Parfit said on the other day that the OF 2200 is to valuable to hide it under the table. For operating under the table a Trend or Casals or something like that would be completely adequate.

Maybe i would buy the CMS-OF and the GE and process the beams with my 1010 and later i could acquire a bigger machine for the table if i need it.

regards

 

[Peter_C]

If you run the router the correct direction the bit will pull the edge guide towards the wood keeping it's accuracy the same as cutting on a router table with the bit pulling it against the fence. The cut wood is going to be hidden isn't it? Plus the LED's are not perfect, as I assume you are using the stick-ons? Strips are not as thin, unless there is a product I haven't seen which is probable.

Sounds like you want a reason to buy a new toy. Go for it! When I want something I just buy it. The Triton router should fit the bill too.

Otherwise Peter Parfit explains how to use the OF1010 for cutting groves.

 

[Coliban]

...
Sounds like you want a reason to buy a new toy. Go for it! When I want something I just buy it. The Triton router should fit the bill too.
...

Ah, you unmasked me!

No, yes, or no. It is not difficult to mortise on the broad side of a a board but i have to mortise on the small side. Router table were invented to solve these sort of problems. And i will purchase a router table!