Ideas on how to make this cut without a router table?

bwehman

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Mar 21, 2016
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I make these book boxes for clients and have been making this cut for the lids by standing the box on-end, and slowly plunge the router up through the box and then cut out this slot. I’d like to get rid of the router table (CMS-GE + 1400), and this is the only cut I make on it. Any ideas how to achieve this without a router table? My first thought was a series of DF700 plunges all along the length?

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While a series of plunges with a DF700 would indeed make a slot, it isn't going to be smooth. It would probably take quite a bit of clean-up. A plunge router with an edge guide would do essentially the same thing as your router table method.
The biggest challenge I see there is having a way told hold the box on-end. That depends on what else you have as far as tools, clamps, etc. A custom fixture may be in order?
 
I do a real lot of this sort of thing for my products, and as CRG suggested, a custom jig is your best friend here. If the slots are always the same size this makes it even easier and can just be a simple MDF jig. I like to base my jigs on using a 30mm template guide ring on a large router, or the standard 10mm template guide that comes with the Makita trimmers, so I can always calculate the exact size of cut based on the guide ring and the size of the cutter.

It also helps to base slot sizes on cutter sizes, as this eliminates a lot of calculation and guesswork.
 
It might be easier to cut the slot using a plunge router and jig before the end panel is cut to size and assembled.
 
It might be easier to cut the slot using a plunge router and jig before the end panel is cut to size and assembled.
This was also going to be my suggestion.

Is there a need to wait until the box is finished to do this?

What are you using to groove the side panels for the lid to slide? I presume a table saw?
 
First, that is a terrific looking box! Well done!

Second, I would do it as a couple others mentioned. Build a custom jig (easy and cheap if boxes are the same size) plunge router (your 1400 would work great), and do it before the box is assembled. Cutting the slot before the box is assembled avoids needing to navigate keeping the box steady.
 
My first “router table” was a 2’ x 4’ sheet of 3/4” thick plywood. I reduced the thickness in the center to 3/8” just large enough to fit the router.

I removed the plastic base plate and mounted the router to the plywood. I sat the plywood on two saw horses.

My “fence” was a piece of lumber I clamped in place.

I used it for a couple of years. Access to the router was easy in the extreme, so setting the bit height was no problem. This was a “driveway” setup an no dust collection required.

For twice a year usage, it would work fine.

The plus side to mounting directly to the plywood was that there was no need to adjust the plate with the table top.
 
Plunge router and jig. I've made thousands parts, granted mostly in plastics, for finger pulls in this manner. This is especially efficient for multiples of the same size. For varying sizes, an adjustable jig is key. While I have the MFS and all the sizes and parts., there are alternatives from Virutex and Woodpeckers.
 
ELU made a joiner/spliner for biscuits long ago. Sold as the Black and Decker 3380 back when B&D had a "professional" tool line. I have a bunch of their pro router bases that are the same as the bases for the DW610.

I have a really small Asian made router table top I can use with a laminate trimmer. It has a nice little fence with sliding faces and miter gauge too if using those on router tables appeals to you. It's sold as an insert plate and you'll likely need to drill for whatever you mount on it. My "real" router table is a flat Rockler top I put on sawhorses when I need it. I have a lot of nice tools but I'm just not sold on the need for fancy router tables.
 
Plunge one side then the other, now you're ready to clean out the middle.
All the Best.
 

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ELU made a joiner/spliner for biscuits long ago. Sold as the Black and Decker 3380 back when B&D had a "professional" tool line. I have a bunch of their pro router bases that are the same as the bases for the DW610.
Not to derail the thread but I've got the original ELU DS140 I bought new in the 80's, and I highly recommend anyone buying it if they see a unit second hand cheap. An amazingly useful tool, I used mine just last week cutting slots for LED Strips. Also great for undercutting door jambs, etc.
 
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