guide bar lengths

[allen]

I am about to purchas a ts 55 saw for cutting sheet stock down to size.  I use both 4x8 sheets and 5x5 sheets.  The saw comes with a 55" guide bar which is perfect for cross cutting a 4x8 sheet.  To cut a 5x5 or 8' cut I will need to join guide bars.  I am thinking of getting the 75" guide bar which will allow a 5' cut and can be joined to the 55" guide bar for the 96" cut.  This however is quite long for the 8' cut.  Similarly, if I get a second 55' guide bar it would be about right for a 8' cut, but pretty long for the 5' cuts.  What recommendations would you make to me?

Thanks,
Allen

 

[semenza]

Hi, Allen  welcome to the forum

                      If you are going to get two rails and join them the 75" / 1900 will give you more overall versatility.  I prefer not having to join the rails. There are two distinct opions on this  here on the FOG.  I use the 55" /1400, 75" /1900, and 118" /3000.  Here are some forum threads on the topic that should help you get it sorted out. 

  http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=2472.0

           http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=1069.0

Seth

 

[allen]

Seth,
Thanks,  It looks like 3 guide bars is the best answer.  I think I will start with the 55 and 75 guide bars and the guide rail accessory kit which gives me the capability to join them and make angled cuts as well.  I expect to include the longer 118" guide rail later.  Thanks again,  Allen

Ok,  on second thought, I am thinking that the longer, 118", guide should be the first one that I get with the saw and the 55" guide.  It would enable me to make cross cuts and lengthwise cuts with a single bar on all sheets.  When using the 5x5 sheets, the long bar would be needed, and stick out quite a bit, but that seems more manageable than combining and breaking down assemblies between cuts.  I still think that three bars is the right answer, but if you had to start with two, do you agree?
Thanks again,  Allen

 

[semenza]

Hi,

       If I had to get just two-  I would go for the 75" and 118".  Because I prefer the 75 for 48" cuts over the 55" and it will still be long enough to do your mid length cuts with out really getting in the way like the 118 would.  It depends a little on how much maneuvering space you have.  The 118 or even the 106 will be awkward to work around for 5' cuts.  I know that the 55" is what comes with the saw, but I have read on this forum that you can swap it out for a different length and pay the price difference. I don't know about this from first hand experience because I bought all three right off. You can certainly ask the dealer you are planning to purchase from about doing this. 
         

      On the guide rail accessory kit. I would not buy it if I were you. The angle unit has some problems with setting accuracy and holding for repeated cuts. People have found ways to improve it, and they are well documented in several threads. If you want to know more about it do a search for    angle unit fix    that will get you several threads on the topic.  You will not need the connectors if you go with the long rail unless you need to cut something reeeaaly long. The extra splinterguard (strip) is nice but is only enough for the 55" rail, plus you can reuse  worn splinterguard strips, there are topics on how to do this. The saw comes with a limit stop.  What I would do instead is buy the following separately and skip the kit. Get the Quick Clamps 491 594 ,  and the deflector 489 022. The Quick clamps  are expensive but they are very high quality, faster, and I find that they hold better than the screw clamps.  Some people don't like the Deflector, it depends on you vac / hose arrangement. If the hose will be coming up from lower than your cutting surface you will want it. If the hose is dropping down from above  it is not needed.  Put the money saved on the kit towards that third rail, and add other accessories once you get up and running and have a better feel for what will work for you.

Seth

 

[Woodenfish]

Welcome Allen,

I sure wish those rails were telescopic.

Seth gave you some great advice.

Your going to love the saw.

Using it is a life altering experience.

 

 

[allen]

Seth,  Thanks for both of your comments.  I will try to swap out the bar length as you suggested.  I was considering getting only part of the angle kit because earlier I got a pair of quick clamps for use with another guide that I made.  Your comments helped to resolve this.

I expect that keeping panels square will require some kind of guide or fixture.  For keeping long cuts parallel to the finished edge, I line up my 'current rail' with a metal ruler with a framing square stop attached to get the same dimension from the edge on both ends of the cut.  I think this should work with the festool rail as well.  I was hoping that the angle gauge would help with the perpendicular cuts.  I will try a search to see if there are suggestions as to how to do this easily.

Thanks again,
Allen

 

[Per Swenson]

Hello Allen and welcome,

Lets remember these guide rails have strips on the bottom that make them stay put.

We happen to be in the revenue producing carpentry business.

The difference between this and fine woodworking is time.

On any given cut, rather then jigs, angle units, and the quest for

unattainable super perfection,  we pretty much use a pencil and two marks.

By setting the rail down on the first mark, then placing the saw on it to hold place,

simply adjust the front of the rail to the second mark.

Cut it.

We may hear a "Oh But",

Frankly, over thinking these things raises costs and

does the brilliant Festool system a disservice.

Per

PS.... The best non Festool accessory's are a box of #2 Ticonderoga pencils and a electric sharpener.

 

[semenza]

Allen,

        If your budget included money for the accessory kit and you are not buying it or any parts of it then you probably have enough to go for all three rails.  Or you could do the swap out (?) length and save a little.  You have read through some threads on the length topic so I am sure you have taken in the various view points so I won't go into the details here. 
        I agree that Per has it right .  Start with the two pencil mark method. Which is basically what I am doing too. Get the basic system. Start using it  and go from there.  After you are started off you will be able to make good use of the huge amount of info and advise available on this forum.  You will find lots on marking, squaring and cutting methods that you can try out or apply after you are up and running.

Seth

 

[Cannuck]

I currently only have the rails that came with the MFT1080 and the TS75, and I'm planning on my next rail purchase.  While the 118" rail is appealing, I actually think I am going to opt for the longest one with LR32 holes - 2424 I think?

I am already on the slippery slope of Festool, after only 4 months since my initial purchase. I know that the LR32 hole kit is somewhere in my future, so my next rail purchase will be the longest one with the holes.

Regards,
Rob

 

[allen]

Thanks to all for your comments and inputs.

I got the saw today.  I got it at Rockler in Salem NH.  They did not have the 3000, 118" guide bar, so I got the 2700 thinking that it might work.  After getting it home and measuring it, I can now see why you need the 118" guide bar for an 8' cut so I will have them order the 3000 and exchange the 2700 for it.  They would not let me get the 75" instead of the 55" and pay the difference, so I came home with 3 guide bars.  I will get a bit more familiar with them before I make my final decision.

I also go the 22e vacuum as part of the package deal.  I have not tried it yet.  So far I have hooked up the TS 55 saw to my dust collector distribution network with a 3" hose and an adaptor at the saw.  This seems to pick up the sawdust pretty well.  Since I intend to work in a pretty stationary position to break down sheet goods, this looks like it will work well.  I will check the site for general comments about the vacuum and people who have used a dust collector.  It seems to me that it might be more advantages as I add other tools.

So, thanks again for your comments and help. 

Allen

 

[nickao]

Allen, that is why I do not go to Rockler stores anymore. They are not accommodating at all. At least not the two stores in IL.

Nickao

 

[Les]

I currently only have the rails that came with the MFT1080 and the TS75, and I'm planning on my next rail purchase.  While the 118" rail is appealing, I actually think I am going to opt for the longest one with LR32 holes - 2424 I think?

I am already on the slippery slope of Festool, after only 4 months since my initial purchase. I know that the LR32 hole kit is somewhere in my future, so my next rail purchase will be the longest one with the holes.

Regards,
Rob

Realize that the 2424 (95") will have to joined to another rail to rip 8' plywood. If you think about it, you rarely will need to drill holes the full length of an 8' standard. I bought 2 of the FS1080 and joined them together when I made a 92" tall book shelf. Holes lined up great using Brice and Mirko's tips.

 

[Les]

Thanks to all for your comments and inputs.

I got the saw today.  I got it at Rockler in Salem NH.  They did not have the 3000, 118" guide bar, so I got the 2700 thinking that it might work.  After getting it home and measuring it, I can now see why you need the 118" guide bar for an 8' cut so I will have them order the 3000 and exchange the 2700 for it.  They would not let me get the 75" instead of the 55" and pay the difference, so I came home with 3 guide bars.  I will get a bit more familiar with them before I make my final decision.

I also go the 22e vacuum as part of the package deal.  I have not tried it yet.  So far I have hooked up the TS 55 saw to my dust collector distribution network with a 3" hose and an adaptor at the saw.  This seems to pick up the sawdust pretty well.  Since I intend to work in a pretty stationary position to break down sheet goods, this looks like it will work well.  I will check the site for general comments about the vacuum and people who have used a dust collector.  It seems to me that it might be more advantages as I add other tools.

So, thanks again for your comments and help. 

Allen

Don't forget the Rockler guys are just employees with no latitude for making deals. Many of the forum members use ISA's that are members of this forum. They have much more latitude since they are "self employed".

 

[semenza]

Thanks to all for your comments and inputs.

I got the saw today.  I got it at Rockler in Salem NH.  They did not have the 3000, 118" guide bar, so I got the 2700 thinking that it might work.  After getting it home and measuring it, I can now see why you need the 118" guide bar for an 8' cut so I will have them order the 3000 and exchange the 2700 for it.  They would not let me get the 75" instead of the 55" and pay the difference, so I came home with 3 guide bars.  I will get a bit more familiar with them before I make my final decision.

I also go the 22e vacuum as part of the package deal.  I have not tried it yet.  So far I have hooked up the TS 55 saw to my dust collector distribution network with a 3" hose and an adaptor at the saw.  This seems to pick up the sawdust pretty well.  Since I intend to work in a pretty stationary position to break down sheet goods, this looks like it will work well.  I will check the site for general comments about the vacuum and people who have used a dust collector.  It seems to me that it might be more advantages as I add other tools.

So, thanks again for your comments and help. 

Allen

Hi,

  The 2700 will do the 8' cuts. you only need about 4-5"" at each end. It is just enough with the deflector in place. I just find that the 118" is quicker to align for 8' cuts because you don't have to be as finicky about the amount left on each end. Plus that extra is nice for the occasional 8' -9' cut.  They wouldn't let you swap but, I think you will be very happy having all three rail lengths anyway.    On the CT22- try it, you have the same 30 days to return that too if you don't end up wanting it.  If the DC picks up dust pretty well then I think that you will find the CT22  will pick up dust from the saw very well.  Also if you start getting other Festool tools you are going to find that the CT22  will be the way to go. Especially with the sanders. Once you find how nice it is to have the tool trigger the vac , and be able to just swap the Plug It cord and hose from one tool to another you will be glad to have the CT22.
      Have fun trying the tools out

Seth