Guide Rail Accessory Kit or not

Mario Turcot

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Joined
Nov 26, 2017
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1,288
Hello all,

I am about to pull the trigger on a second FS 1400/2 to be able to strip full sheet goods. I will also need the rail connectors and was wondering if it would be better to get the Guide Rail accessory Kit. The kit contain;

1 Angle Unit (142$)
1 limit stop (18$ I already have two)
1 splinterguard (~32$ useful but how long this one is?)
2 Rail connectors (56$ I need these)
2 screw clamps (62$ I will get those anyways)
1 Systainer to hold everything (98$ useful only if I get the Angle unit)

This comes to 378$ separately and the kit is 314$. So the only factor to get the kit is the angle Unit, how often do you use it for cabinet/desk scenario. By the way, I have the TSO square if that make any difference.

Thanks, Mario
 
I'm just a hobbyist.  But I bought the whole kit a couple of years ago.  I've used the angle unit exactly once. Just not real useful for me as I also have the TSO rail square.

Cheers,
Barney
 
Don't bother and don't buy Festool rail connectors...the Makita rail connectors are much nicer although more money.  The TSO angle unit is much more useful.
 
Being a Festool dealer I may be shot for saying this, but I tell my customers not to bother with the kit.  Let's break it down:

Limit stop:  You got one with your saw

Splinterguard (1400mm):  Your better off buying the 5 meter box and cutting to length as needed, the small one is only big enough for the smallest of rails.

Deflector:  Sometimes useful, modifications and custom ones that are sometimes better are discussed here on the fog.

Guide Rail connectors:  Useful, possibly better options out there.

Screw clamps:  Useful, but the ratchet style clamps are preferred by many.

Angle unit:  Drawer your own conclusions, I have not used it except in demos for other people. 

Sys 1:  Useful, but probably more useful by being re-purposed.

The items I recommend buying from here are the connectors (or other versions of them) and the deflector.  Not that much value in the box beyond that.

Ken

P.S.  Festool, Please don't hate me!
 
The angle unit is pretty useless. It even doesn’t look nice on a wall…
 
Tooltown, thank you for your comment. I did not realized that the kit contains a deflector. I already have one  [eek]

Bert, you made me smile  [smile]
 
Before you buy the rail and connectors you might want to think about buying either a 2700mm, or 3000mm rail. The reason being it will always be true, without having to get an 8ft level to make the two rails true. Plus you can swap back and forth between the long rail and the 1400mm instantly. If you are making a lot of cuts you will find it far easier to have a long rail and a short rail. There are times I have switched every other cut.

If you are going to buy another 1400mm rail you should also consider buying the LR32 rail. You may not want it for years but you will have it when the time comes.

Also agree the Makita rail connectors are superior.
 
Peter, thank you for your insight!

I actually have the FS 1400/2 LR32 and my plans was to get another LR32 just in case and because they are the same price. I thought of the FS 1400 because the it is 180$ compare to the 2700 being 448$CAD. Something I don't get, it's not twice the lenght but more than twice the price [eek]

I looked into the Makita connectors and watched a few videos. Seems to me that you have two pieces of metal creating pressure against each other instead of stressing the rail directly  [blink]

You made me reconsider the 2700, but shop ceiling is exactly at 106" so horizontal storage might be the only way for that one. anyone with a 2700 can tell how cautious you have to be in order to move that beast in the shop without kinking it or is it sturdy enough to not worie at all?
 
I have the 3000 and I treat it just like I would the large glass that I typically move...tip it to vertical when moving to prevent sagging on the horizontal.
 
rst said:
I have the 3000 and I treat it just like I would the large glass that I typically move...tip it to vertical when moving to prevent sagging on the horizontal.

Thanks for the comment!

Now I have to measure if I can carry it with my SUV  [big grin]
 
I find the Makita connectors, Betterly Straight Line Connector, and TSO rail square, will do what you need.
 
For those familiar with the Makita connectors, are two necessary or will one work?  Only looking to save the hassle of flipping the rails over.
 
Deciding what to buy is all a matter of how frequently you anticipate any function.  I joined rails for 4-5 years before deciding that I  was over rail joining.  For me, the speed that I can complete a task is more important than it might be for a hobbyist.
 
Get the rail connectors and ratchet clamps. The DeWalt rail clamps fit the festool rails, but if you get into the system using the ratchet clamps with an MFT is great, and the DeWalt clamps can't do that.
 
DynaGlide said:
SS Teach said:
I find the Makita connectors, Betterly Straight Line Connector, and TSO rail square, will do what you need.

Second this.

The motion has passed. I only have the Makita connectors of the three, but this is a solid path.
 
I am another hobbiest/DIY, I bought this fairly early in my Festool journey because it seemed like such a good idea.

However the angle thing is pretty flimsy and there are better rail joiners and clamps available.

I think you would be better off with a TSO type rail guide especially for breaking down sheet goods, and some ratchet type clamps (e.g. Bessey GTR16S6H).
 
cpw said:
Get the rail connectors and ratchet clamps. The DeWalt rail clamps fit the festool rails, but if you get into the system using the ratchet clamps with an MFT is great, and the DeWalt clamps can't do that.
You can use the Dewalt clamps on an MFT you just have to remove the pin, then slide the rod thru the 20mm hole and put the clamping section back on. I have a pair of Dewalts and like them for the price. The Festool quick clamps get a fair amount of use too. I say get both!

Here is another style of clamp for reference. You can see the Harbor Freight screw clamp would need the little nubs ground off to come apart in order to fit thru the holes.

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