Guide Rail Advice

[jtsymbo]

Hi. I am new to track saws. I Just purchased the Festool TSC 55 K Cordless Track Saw and need advice on guide rail selection. Right now, I plan on cutting 4'x8' sheets to build furniture or cabinets. I also own a jobsite table saw for smaller cuts.
I am leaning towards purchasing two 55" FS FS 400/2-LR 32 so I can crosscut a 4' board or rip a 8' sheet (using the connectors). I don't know if I will ever use the LR32 hole drilling system, but for just $10 more per rail than 1400/2 rail (without the holes), why wouldn't I upgrade with the possibility of needing that feature down the road? Is there any downside to purchasing the LR32 even though the primary use initially, would be as a guide rail for the track saw?
Thanks for any advice.

 

[onocoffee]

Another alternative you might consider is the Guide Rail FS FS 1400/2-KP-Set.

This is a set that has two FS1400/2-KP rails - these are the rails that feature three slots: two short slots for the sticky pads that allow you to stick the rail vertically (or maybe even upside down) and a long slot that you can put your Systainer handle through for easier carry. It also comes with two clamps, the rail connectors and a bag. My friend has this and it's a pretty nice set.

I was thinking of buying it for myself and my local dealer tells me it's still available, so if you're interested you might inquire with your dealer. My TS55 came with the regular 1400/2 and then I found a used bag for $40 and the clamps for $48 and that's where I am at the moment. Like you, I've been thinking about getting the LR-32 rail for future use.

But, if you're not totally set on the LR-32, I think the KP Set makes for a great deal.

 

[cpw]

I bought my 55" rails with the LR32 holes, and was glad that I did when it came time to get the LR32.  I only connect them when using the LR32 or doing site work.  Otherwise, I prefer the 2700mm rail instead of joining them together.

I originally purchased the 2700mm and 1400mm/LR32 with my TS75.  I've since added a 1080, 75", second 55" LR32 and a complement of FSK rails.

At the time I got my TS75, Tool Nut was a local store that you could walk into and bring the tools home.  Looking now, they don't sell the 2700mm or 3000mm anymore; they're only selling the shorter rails because of shipping.  Hopefully the unavailability of the longer guide rails doesn't become a trend.

The KP set looks interesting with the bag, connector and clamps; but it has screw clamps.  I expect you'll want to have the ratchet clamps instead.  There are some circumstances where screw clamps are better, but generally the ratchet clamps are nicer.

 

[bobtskutter]

I have a TS75, a 1400 and 3000 rail, and a 2424 LR32 rail.
The 3000 cuts 8' and the 2424 easily cuts 4'.
The TS75 doesn't have the same rail clamps as the newer saws so you need a slightly longer rail to keep the saw on the track (at least I do!)

Do you actually need to make 8' rips?  You might be able to get away with roughly breaking down the 4x8 sheet with a 1400 rail into smaller pieces.  Then making accurate cuts on the smaller pieces.

Regards
Bob

 

[rst]

I spent years connecting two 55s, but broke down and bought the 3000.  My most used are the 75 and 3000, despite having all the other versions.  If I were mostly mobile, I probably would still be joining rails but I seldom am out of my shop so take the 75 and 3000.  It easy for me as I have always run full size vans and currently a mid height Transit.. I’m 72 so crawling in and out of vehicles is not my thing

 

[mino]

1) When starting, do not get two same length rails.

2) Get 3 rails, that way you can use one of them as a reference edge when joining the other two.

3) Ideally, you want 1080, 1400 LR32 and 1900 (or 1900 KP) and a set of Makita connectors.

1080+1900 gives you a 3000 for full rips
1900 is long-enough for full cross-cuts
1080 is a "handy/go-to" rail
1400 is for LR32 and "middle" length work where the 1900 can get unwieldy

4) If on a tight budget, get 800, 1080 and 1900 + a Makita connectors set. You can add 1400 LR32 later on.

---
5) Me personally, I would also cut-short the 1900 into a 1800 to be a bit more more practical for cross cuts, the 1900 length is a bit ovekill for 99% use cases where it gets used.

 

[onocoffee]

[member=61254]mino[/member] I've only used the Festool rail connectors. Why do you prefer the Makita version?

 

[rst]

I also went to the Makita connectors, the new Festool connectors solve the marring the original connectors made.

 

[mino]

I also went to the Makita connectors, the new Festool connectors solve the marring the original connectors made.

Unfortunately, it is so only partially. The "second" connector which is supposed to be tightened a lot for strength is still the bad-style one..

[member=82312]onocoffee[/member]
The recommendation is for a starting/inexperienced user.

The Makita connectors are the most accurate thanks to requiring a proper reference edge and provide the strongest connection and are the cheapest as well. It is a slam dunk recommendation for a starting user.

Later on, one may go with Festool or TSO self-aligning set to augment the Makita set. But it is best to start with Makita. One wants to have them around, even if not using daily. There are scenarios where TSO/Festool may not work but Makita's will always do.

The only "disadvantage" is they are not self-aligning. But that is actually a plus for a starting user. There is nothing worse than making crooked cuts only because the ends/starts of your rails are not perfectly straight and keep second-guessing oneself, looking for all kinds of other sources for the problem. Not to mention over-tightening the Festool second connector or the TSO ones and damaging the rails in the process ... or having the rail move. None of these pitfalls are present with the Makita's.

 

[rst]

When I was connecting two 55s or a 55 and my 75, I made a straight edge from 8020 10 series 1/2” x 2” that I could slide into the Festool slot and use the Makita connectors to be sure of straight connections

 

[rmhinden]

I got the TSO GRE-13 Guide Rail Extension at some point when it was on sale.  It includes the TSO GRC-12 Self-Aligning Guide Rail Connectors.

Very handy to extend a 1400 mm guide rail without having to get my longer rail out.  Fits into my tracksaw systainer.

Bob

 

[jtsymbo]

Thanks for all the great advice.
3 questions:
I didn't realize the 55" is not adequate to crosscut a sheet of plywood. So should I get the 75" for crosscuts or the TSO guide rail extension plus the 55" rail?
Regarding 96" rips, I do own a set of Bora quick connect clamps (2 - 50" connected). Could I use the Bora Clamps with the TSC 55 for rough rips, using the clamps as a straight edge?

Thanks.

 

[Packard]

I bought mine with a 55” rail; it was sold as a “package” and I assume was the most logical starting point.

I got a second 55” rail so I could rip 8’ pieces from a sheet of plywood.

Then I bought a TSO squaring arm and a 32” rail so I would have a light and compact tool to cut boards to length. 

I think the 55” is logical, especially if you are planning on cabinet work.  In most cases you can cut the board to the height of the cabinet first, and then rip the 24”, 30” or 32” board to width. It is only when you are making tall cabinets that the 55” is not quite up to the task. 

Figure out how you will use the saw.  That will give you a good idea of what track to use.  But the really long tracks are hard to maneuver and more difficult to store.  I think a track of over 100” would slow me down rather than facilitate production.

I do join my two 55” tracks when required.

 

[onocoffee]

[member=61254]mino[/member]
Thanks. I'll look up those Makita connectors. I'm pretty new to the Festool world and still learning about the gear. I've only used the newest version of the connectors and can see how the top/old style connector can damage the rail. The inside rail is better but seems finicky about the set screw. A little too far in and I can't slide the connector into the rail, a little far out and it falls out of the connector - that is mildly irritating. I haven't been in a rush to get a second track since it's quite unusual for me to rip plywood sheets.

But I did run into a guy at the Woodcraft about an hour ago who had gotten tired of connecting the rails and just bought the 2700. That's a helluva long rail!

 

[dlu]

If you're going to be doing much precise ripping of 8' sheets, a single rail long enough to avoid joining is really nice. I've found that with both the Festool and the TSO guide rail connectors that it isn't easy to keep a joined 8' rail perfectly straight. So if being off by a millimeter or two at the center of the cut is an issue for you -- and you make such cuts often -- then a long rail may be a worthwhile investment.

 

[mino]

...
I've found that with both the Festool and the TSO guide rail connectors that it isn't easy to keep a joined 8' rail perfectly straight.
...

Yep. This is why one should have at least one set of the Makita ones. Precisely for those demanding rail joins.

They are more fiddly, no question. But the joining can be made reference-edge straight and they can be tightened to the hilt without risking rail damage. That and the price makes them great also for semi-permanently joining rails like two 800s to get a 1600 etc.

...
So should I get the 75" for crosscuts or the TSO guide rail extension plus the 55" rail?
...

Whatever you buy, get the 1900 and 1080. That gives you a "handy" rail, a "cross-cut" rail and a "rip cut" set when joined. If you have a quality engineer's straight edge at least 4' long, you can get by these two and use that as a reference edge when joining.

But most people do not have a good straight edge in the shop, so it is easier/cheaper to just get a third rail for that.

Cannot comment on the Bora. Though the end-end precision one can get with the FS/2 rails (used properly) is within 0.2 mm (0.01") deviation over the length of a cut. Not aware of other way to achieve that with a track saw, except someone essentially manufacturing an FS/2 clone which would cost at least as much as the Festool rails. And no, the Makita rails do not count. Those are about twice as "crooked" as the FS/2 rails are. One gets what one pays for.

 

[rst]

Despite my first track saw being a Makita way back when to see what the fuss was about, all my rails but one are Festool.  My only Makita rail was purchased to run my Metabo concrete saw on. Too many stories of Makita rails not being absolutely straight.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

A lot of this comes down to how you will use the saw. Joining rails gets old after a surprisingly short time, but if you need to be mobile with the rails, it is often the best/safest way. (safest for the rails, as in protection from damage.
IMHO, the 2700 rail is not long enough for 8' sheet goods, especially with a TS75, they have a longer base plate.
In a "shop only" situation, like mine, the 3000 rail is a much better choice.
Back when I bought my first TS55, as a set with a rail, the LR-32 was no additional cost. You could get either. I was advised by my dealer to go that way, even though I didn't need that feature, at the time.
It made buying the system later, a much easier choice. (I would still go that way today with the minimal extra cost)
It may seem excessive, but I find having the most options (as far as length) is favorable. A rail that is too long, can be just as bad as too short. When too much of the rail hangs over the edge of your part, it will sag under its own weight. This can cause placement issues, since the rail is only getting traction at the ends. It is rather difficult to get it where you want it, as it fights back and forth. Ideally, you want 8"-10" overhang on each end. That's enough to be fully plunged before making contact with the sheet, and enough to go out the other end, while still completely engaged with the tensioner pads in the base of the saw.

Which rail get the most use for me, is entirely dependent upon the job at hand. Sometimes, I don't use the 3000 for days, other times it gets used all day. I can say that the one I use the least is the 2424-LR32, but when it is needed, it's so much better than joining rails.
I have (and hate) the original Festool connectors, only because I don't know what else to do with them.
On the very rare occasion that I need to join rails, I use the company's newer version pair. Eventually, I will end up with the TSO GRE kit.
The [member=61254]mino[/member]  plan of the 3 rails (1080, 1400, 1900) is probably the best way to go, for the vast majority of people.....until you find something specific to your personal needs. I wish I had been given that advice, years ago. I worked my way up to the point I am now, over a long period of time.

 

[pettyconstruction]

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[pettyconstruction]

[member=9356]pettyconstruction[/member]

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