Guide rail clamps necessary? Can I use other "dust extractor", e.g. Fein Turbo

[Tony in WV]

#1 Subject line pretty much says it.  I'm thinking of buying a TS 55 req. and  I can't spring for one of the long clamps at the moment, so I'll be stuck for a while using the included 55" that comes with.  I've seen a number of videos that show a rail being used without any clamps, but I also see that there are clamps made for the rail.  Is it necessary to use a clamp or clamps when sawing?  If so, are there any particular circumstances where that is so?  Can I make a cut on the long dimension of plywood using the 55" rail, then slide it up complete the cut?

#2. A dust extractor is way out of my budget, so I wonder if I can attach my Fein turbo, which still draws a lot of air.  I see a number of sleeves and adapters on the site, but I can't tell if any of them will fit the bill.

Thanks,

Tony 

 

[Brice Burrell]

Welcome to the FOG Tony. [welcome] 

I can't tell you the last time I've used clamps.  There are times when you'll what them but that is more for cutting outside the norm.  For your everyday type of cutting you'll be fine without clamps.  As for using the 55" rail to make longer cut, it can be done but I don't recommend it for optimal results.  There are plenty of people that use a Fein vac with their Festool tools.  I'm not completely sure if you need an adapter or not, I'll let someone else answer that for you.   

 

[Cheese]

I also use a Fein Turbo II with a Festool hose for the Kapex. The standard Fein hose locks into place while the Festool hose is an interference fit but it works fein.  [big grin]

At times I've used the 1400 rail to cut long sheet goods. It works but you have to be very careful because it can shift just a smidgen. I make a cut, move the rail and then carefully lower the blade back into the kerf, then adjust the uncut end to align with the pencil mark while making sure the other end of the rail hasn't moved. It's a PITA. 

As a result, if I have any more than 1 sheet to cut, I just connect a 1400 regular & a 1400 holey rail together.

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[deepcreek]

I use a Fein Turbo 2 and with a Fein hose.  I replaced the business end of the Fein hose with a Festool 27mm hose end.

I also use an industrial Shop Vac with a 1-1/2" hose.  A perfect fit for Festool's 35mm applications.

I finally bought a Festool CT36 but use it mostly for sanding.

 

[Brent Taylor]

I have several types of track clamps, that said I don't always use them on sheet goods. I do use the FS Rapid clamp and the Dewalt Track saw clamps the most. As for DC I have used Festool, Nilfisk, Makita (Nilfisk ) and a couple of shop vacs. They  all  worked fine. Use what you have and welcome to the fold.   

 

[jbasen]

If you are looking for a cheap set of clamps you might try these from Grizzly.  I have not personally tried them myself so I do not know if they fit the Festool track.  However, for only $20 for 2 clamps plus other accessories it could be worth a try if you are on a budget.  At the worst you just return them for a refund or possibly just spend some time filing them until they fit.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Accessory-Pack-for-T10687/T25094

 

[ear3]

I use the Dewalt clamps on the track and actually prefer them to the Festool because they have the trigger action.

 

[Holzhacker]

My Turbo II is usually hooked up to my Kapex or TS75; no issues

 

[jtwood]

#1 I like the DeWalt guide rail clamps, too.  Easier and cheaper than the Festool ones.

#2 You will probably want to pick up one of these:  Fein 921072K13 Step Adaptor
    It is a rubber adaptor you can attach to the end of the Fein hose, and trim to fit, if necessary, the Festool vac ports on the tools.  It is usually less than $10 and available at Amazon, and other outlets.

Steve

 

[Turnamere]

At times I've used the 1400 rail to cut long sheet goods. It works but you have to be very careful because it can shift just a smidgen. I make a cut, move the rail and then carefully lower the blade back into the kerf, then adjust the uncut end to align with the pencil mark while making sure the other end of the rail hasn't moved. It's a PITA. 

I used this method a few times when I first got my TS55 and no matter how careful I was I could always see a step, bit the bullet and added a 2.7m rail (it was on offer and only slightly more expensive than the 1.4m) which avoided the need to join 2 rails.

 

[#Tee]

I alway use clamps on something precision and if its a thick piece of stock. sometimes i find the rail would move a hair if theres any resistance on the push of the saw in conjunction the width of the stock that the rail has to lay on top (surface area it has to reside on) and dullness of blade.

 

[Tony in WV]

Thanks for the responses folks.

Tony

 

[jamanjeval]

The track stays in place pretty well on most surfaces.

Also, I wipe the top of the tracks and the sole of the saw down with insulator wax. The saw rides on plastic strips, but I find that it works even better when waxed. Once it is done, keep the rag in the systainer and use it without additional wax to wipe them down when you're done for the day.

 

[Tony in WV]

. . . I wipe the top of the tracks and the sole of the saw down with insulator wax.

Hi Jamenjevel (no idea how to get your real name out of that)  I have all kinds of wax in my shop, including about a half-dozen cans of Johnson's paste wax (which will still be around when my grandkid starts ww'ing) I bought when I fell for a rumor that it would not be manufactured any longer, but I've never heard of insulator wax.  Does it offer any benefit that I can't get from other types of wax?  Thanks,  Tony

 

[jamanjeval]

Collinite's No. 845 Insulator Wax

Besides Amazon, you can usually find it at automotive parts stores because it works well on cars. I find it very easy to apply because it dries slow and can be wiped off before it turns to powder. It also seems to provide a thicker coat of wax, but I have no way to measure that.

I know the username is weird. You can call me Jim ;-)