I set out to cut plywood parts for some mock-up shelves with my new ts55 saw and MFT3. Unfortunately, I'm stuck with what should be the easiest part of all this... cutting a straight line. The cut doesn't stay flush up against the rail's zero-clearance, translucent edge. Instead, at the center of the piece, there is about .5mm bulge; the cut is convex like a capital "D". Making multiple passes helps but isn't a perfect fix; a slight bulge remains and is exaggerated if I flip the work and cut again. I've double-checked the guidance jaws on the saw and I think they're snug... I can't feel any play when the saw is on the rail. The same thing happens with my 1400 guide rail so I'm pretty sure the problem is with me. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?
Guide rail cuts slight curve (I can't cut straight!)
- Thread starter xuxa
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2007
- Messages
- 10,355
Hi xuxa,
Welcome to the FOG ! [smile]
Since it happens with more than one rail, and the system is new to you I think it may be a matter of applying a bit of side pressure in the center of the rail when you are pushing it along. Try to keep the direction of force while you are pushing in direct line with the rail as you are pushing. It does not take much of a twist or change in side force on the saw handle to get a .5mm bulge. This may seem awkward at first but a little practice gaining a feel for the set up will probably take care of the problem.
If that doesn't do it , have no fear it will get sorted out here.
Welcome to the FOG ! [smile]
Since it happens with more than one rail, and the system is new to you I think it may be a matter of applying a bit of side pressure in the center of the rail when you are pushing it along. Try to keep the direction of force while you are pushing in direct line with the rail as you are pushing. It does not take much of a twist or change in side force on the saw handle to get a .5mm bulge. This may seem awkward at first but a little practice gaining a feel for the set up will probably take care of the problem.
If that doesn't do it , have no fear it will get sorted out here.
ajones
Member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2010
- Messages
- 2,073
Hi xuxa and [welcome]It does sound as if you are applying side pressure if running the saw along the same cut multiple times improved the cut.. less forward force required = less sideways force and a straighter cut.
you may also be pushing the saw to hard you could try cutting at a reduced pace and that in itself may improve the quality of your cut.
be sure to come back and tell us how you got on..
you may also be pushing the saw to hard you could try cutting at a reduced pace and that in itself may improve the quality of your cut.
be sure to come back and tell us how you got on..
Hi,
I had the same problem, but I was doing 2.4mt mitres on mdf.
I had decided to do mitre when refurbing a kitchen studio in Haqrrogate, the mdf was to be painted and this method was applied to avoid lipping showing on the mdf.................yuk.
The first couple of boards would not come together properly, i.e. the mitre would gap.
It was down to a couple of things............mainly we weren't cutting on a flat bed (dead flat), that solved, the blade was too fine a cut and consequently more pressure applied to saw, easy solution there. And it is all about letting the saw cut at its own pace.
Hope that helps.
I had the same problem, but I was doing 2.4mt mitres on mdf.
I had decided to do mitre when refurbing a kitchen studio in Haqrrogate, the mdf was to be painted and this method was applied to avoid lipping showing on the mdf.................yuk.
The first couple of boards would not come together properly, i.e. the mitre would gap.
It was down to a couple of things............mainly we weren't cutting on a flat bed (dead flat), that solved, the blade was too fine a cut and consequently more pressure applied to saw, easy solution there. And it is all about letting the saw cut at its own pace.
Hope that helps.
xuxa said:
It depends on how much you are taking off the piece, etc. but when you cut sheet goods and lumber there is also tension built up that get's released. Different products will have differing amount of movement when cut but sometimes it is pretty noticeable. Could it be tension being released in your wood product? That would make sense if you could then just take a cleaning pass and it be straight.
Chris...
Did you buy from a local dealer? Take the saw up to the store and try some cuts on their MFT with the same material. Try their saw on the material. If they will let you, borrow their saw and try it on your MFT or haul your MFT up there. Have the salesman make cuts with your saw and so on.
Should be illuminating.
Should be illuminating.
Make sure the plywood panel is fully supported in the middle. If it sags a bit, the rail can sag with it, and the saw base will ride along slightly off the rail. The adjustable clamps on the saw will still trap the guide rail, but a little higher, where the fit is looser. This might be causing the drift you're seeing.
If I understand correctly you have said that the problem exists with two separate rails. Try laying them back to back to determine if they are straight. If your cuts are convex with both rails and the problem truly rests with the rails then they should show a gap in the middle when back to back. If they are straight to each other, no gaps anywhere, then it is probably something in your technique. Perhaps someone with a little knowledge can pick up what is happening, a pitching coach, if you will.
Similar threads
