Guide rail splinterguard issue (crooked)

[regulator95]

I have a question I hope someone perhaps encountered in the past. I just got my ts55 req. Love the saw. The first cut I made which cut the splinterguard seemed to look ok but on further inspection I noticed an issue. The first two feet of the splinter guard sticks out further than the rest of it. It almost seems like the last 4 feet of the splinter guard lines up exactly with the cut but the first 2 feet, the splinter guard sticks out like a mm over the cut. I have no idea why I cant trim it but it almost seems like it probably flexes up when i run the saw over it again and just doesnt quite cut it. Posted a picture. Let me know if anyone has any suggestions. Again the second part of the picture where i say thinner but perfectly straight lines up exactly on the cut line.

 

[amt]

The thicker part may be where the saw did not cut it at all.  Try a full plunge and start as close as you can to the beginning of the track.  Even so, there will still be a few inches of uncut splinter guard.  It should not be an issue becase the saw never actually cuts anything there.

 

[regulator95]

amt the splinter guard is like that the first 2 feet. I started the cut where the back cams are basically at the beginning of the track. If there was any part of the splinter guard that wasnt cut it is the first inch of so. It is definitely cut but not as short as the rest of the track. If it was the first few inches I would understand. It is almost like the guard is short enough where friction causes it to bend ever so slightly and the teeth can never make contact.

 

[Paul G]

Have you tried another pass at full plunge?

 

[regulator95]

Yes I have. When I plunge the saw (unplugged of course) and lock it like im changing the blade, I can see the part that sticks further out presses up against teh blade almost too much where as teh rest of the track it sits just against the blade. I was thinking of trying to put the stop on the track at some point of that thicker part and plunging straight down instead of starting at the beginning of the track. Not sure if that will make a difference or not. I initially thought the thinner part was maybe too much cut off, but i verified tonight that the thinner part lined up dead on the cut line, the thicker part hung over the cut about a mm or so. I dont even know how thats possible but it does.

 

[dltflt]

I cut a piece of wood to help hold my splinter guard when I made my first cut.

 

[sakurama]

Be sure you've taken the play out of the adjusters that tighten on the guide rail. The best way to trim the splinter guard is on a foam sheet so you can start the saw a bit farther back to trim the first part of the splinter guard while it's supported a little. I do a very shallow cut (3-5mm below the strip) on my 4x8 foam cutting board to trim a new guard. I also have had good luck pulling them up and moving them over 2-3mm to get a fresh edge if need be. I use a laminate roller to press it back down.

Gregor

 

[regulator95]

sakurama good idea. How do you go about taking off the strip? Do you heat it first or just pull it off?

 

[woodie]

No heat necessary. Just be sure the rail is clean. If you get any sawdust on the tacky part of the strip it'll never re-adhere properly.

 

[sakurama]

Yeah, what he said. I try to vacuum the table first to help make sure it stays clean. If it's an old one you can't get away with that trick so I'll buy a new strip and use a scraper to peel up the left over adhesive. I've found an old dull, thin metal ruler works well held a very shallow angle. I have had better luck not using thinners to remove the old adhesive but just scraping it as best I can. Ymmv.

 

[fesfrank]

i also adjust the saw (which is independent of the base) closer to the rail in order to have a fresh cut on splinter guard line without moving splinter guard yet.  Then move back out and adjust splinter guard and the saw to base again.  So essentially I get four cuts with each splinter guard.  Be sure that when you do adjust your saw that you use something to keep it square to base or just max it out.  I found this out when i dropped the saw and it was running really rough.  When i found out that the problem was the saw out of square from the base with the two adjustments on front and back. Then I realized I could move saw back and fourth about 2-3mm.  1/8"

 

[regulator95]

Removed the splinter guard and re-applied 2 mm over and re-cut.. Seems much better now. Not perfect at the beginning or end but that is expected

 

[tbellemare]

I attach another guide rail at the beginning and again at the end so that I know the saw is cutting properly. I can't think of any other way to know that the gibs are properly engaged throughout the entire cut.

Tom

 

[dpeagles]

I attach another guide rail at the beginning and again at the end so that I know the saw is cutting properly. I can't think of any other way to know that the gibs are properly engaged throughout the entire cut.

Tom

I do the same as above.