Guide Rail Tee Piece

[Stone Message]

Hello Everyone

I never rely on the sheet goods being square and so, at some point, have to start making some square cuts. Here in the UK there are no gizmos (like the clever things made by Qwas) for helping out, apart from Parf Dogs if the sheet has already been cut to fit on the MFT3.

So I designed a simple Tee piece (see first picture showing Tee piece on the rail) that would slide onto the end of a guide rail with tolerances such that it would be a tight fit and had a good chance of always being square to the rail once in place.

I used a piece of hard maple that I machined entirely on the CMS-TS unit that fits exactly in the slot on the guide rail (second picture).

This was screwed and glued, at right angles, to a cross piece which also has a short (maple) end stop for the rail to butt against (third picture).

The fourth picture shows the assembly from underneath.

The cross piece has to be wide enough to allow for the end of a saw cut but narrow enough not to be too heavy (final picture). In use I use a clamp on the other end from the Tee piece to hold the rail in place. It can be fitted to any rail. It has to but fitted and removed carefully but the maple is fairly tough. The maple section that fits in the channel provides some resistance and keeps the Tee in place.

It works!

Peter

PS - I forgot to mention that I had to cut a small rebate out of the maple end stop to allow the saw to pass (it was the splinter guard on the saw that wanted to get past).

 

[Timtool]

Nice find peter, when i saw that little mafell saw with an attached cross-cut rail i wondered why festool never made such a thing.
I think i may actually build this if i use my TS more often.

I actually made a similar jig for the Carvex a while ago, and surprisingly it went by nearly unnoticed while i think it's a small revolution. But i think it had to do with the relative unpopularity of the PS400 and non availability in the states!

Like on my jig it appears that yours also acts like a tear-out protector at the end of the cut.

 

[festooldude]

hey tim,

I made that jig, only for the ps300eq. The trion doesn't have the special sole with the groove for the guide rail (i know that there is a special acc for it, but it's huge!)
but even without it, it work great. When i'm pulling up walls with 2"x 3's it work great and really fast.. the cut is straight and 90 degrees both ways..

i tought, i'll just let you know it didn't go by TOTALLY unnoticed

gr Rick

 

[greymann]

When I first looked at this I wondered if I was missing the point.  Then I think I saw that this is another area where the pro and hobbyist see things through a much different lens.

When I break down sheet goods, I cut a padded dimension.  Then I use the sheet goods cut edge on the MFT to make my cross cuts square to it and to final dimension and finally cut the last edge.  It is most likely that the pros are eliminating the extra cuts, but if the MFT guide rail and fence are set up properly it seems to me that especially over time using it would give more reliable results than a wooden jig.  I also use "CutList Pro" software and my parts are scattered all over the sheets.  Using this method I can then sort the rough cut parts and make sure common dimensions are consistent.

This has made me think that there might be some value in identifying whether a technique is oriented to the pro or hobbyist or even in having a broader discussion  of approaches taken by each.

Dick

 

[Stone Message]

Hi Dick

I understand your idea of the hobbyist v professional but that is not where I am coming from. I would use the MFT with Parf Dogs to cut flat stuff that is within the limits of the table...but if you are dealing with larger pieces then this method clicks in.

I always look for one good edge on sheets as delivered but I am rarely lucky but I will use one edge as a reference edge for the start of the cutting and, like you, go back and trim that first (as delivered) edge. I don't use sophisticated computer cutting programs but just try and establish a happy medium between speed and economy.

Peter

 

[galwaydude18@gmail.com]

Peter why don't you rip 5mm off one long edge when you start cutting sheets? I always do it that way on the panel saw and it can be don't with then Ts 55 rails. It assures you have one long clean straight edge to start all your cuts with

 

[Stone Message]

Peter why don't you rip 5mm off one long edge when you start cutting sheets? I always do it that way on the panel saw and it can be don't with then Ts 55 rails. It assures you have one long clean straight edge to start all your cuts with

I often do but if I want, say, just half a sheet then the cut that halves the sheet provides a good edge for both halves (I hope that makes sense).

Peter

 

[galwaydude18@gmail.com]

Ya that makes perfect sense Peter  [smile]