Guide Stop Use on Other Router (w/guide rail)??????

extiger

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Jan 27, 2007
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Among my routers, I  have a Milwaukee 5616 which I  purchased with the intention of using it both in a router table, but also for freehand cutting of dados.

Since I already own several Festool guiderules and will be purchasing the MFT very soon, what is your opinion of me purchasing just the Stop Guide made for the OF 1400, and adapting it so that I can attach my Milwaukee and make guided cuts employing the Guiderails.

Is there anything about the Guide Stop which would render this adaptation impractical?

My purpose would be, of course, to avoid spending $460 on yet another router that I need for no other purpose. The bulk  of my routing chores will be handled with my WoodRat.

Garu Curtis :)
 
The OF1400 Guide Stop connects to the router with two steel rods.  If you can figure out a way to convert those two rods into whatever interface the Milwaukee router uses, and if you can account for the potential difference in the vertical alignment of the Guide Stop and the router, then you can use the Guide Stop as the Milwaukee guide.  As mentioned, some other folks have already solved that problem, including Micro Fence.  Look here for a discussion of other alternatives:
http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=18.0
 
Thanks for the reference. I am curious about one thing. Does the base of the OF 1400 lock onto the guide rail when using the Guide Stop? Or does it just touch along the rail edge?

Gary Curtis
 
extiger said:
Thanks for the reference. I am curious about one thing. Does the base of the OF 1400 lock onto the guide rail when using the Guide Stop? Or does it just touch along the rail edge?

Gary Curtis

The base of the OF1400 does NOT lock onto the Guide Rail.  The rods that attach the Guide Stop to the router lock those two units together.  The OF1400 can be positioned so that a portion of the base rides on the Guide Rail, or so that the entire router base rides on the work piece.  The router is NOT positioned so that the bit edge aligns with the rubber edge of the Guide Rail.  Rather, the router is typically positioned using marks on the router base that define the location of the centerline of the bit, at least that's how I do it.

Here's a thread that discusses some options:
http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=34.0
 
Thanks David. It is only a $70 investment (and a little time) to try out the Guide Stop. I already have one of Pat Warner's offset bases (with a handle) for my Milwaukee. The only challenge will be to make an adapter so the Stop Guide rods mate up with the router.

When some of the posters on this issue mention having the OF 1400 riding on the guide rail, are they implying that the base of the router has a groove matching the tracks in the Guide Rail?  I've never seen the OF 1400 base plate.

Gary
 
No, it's as David says, the guide stop rides along the rail, but a lot (or all) of the base of the 1400 is off the rail. It doesn't cut along the zero strip. The center of the bit is offset from the edge of the rail.
 
extiger said:
...When some of the posters on this issue mention having the OF 1400 riding on the guide rail, are they implying that the base of the router has a groove matching the tracks in the Guide Rail?  I've never seen the OF 1400 base plate.

Gary

There is nothing on the OF1400 base plate that interfaces with the Guide Rail.  If you use the router riding on the Guide Rail, it simply sits and slides on the rail.  I prefer to use a secondary base to make up for the thickness of the Guide Rail, and allow the router to sit completely on the work piece.

I am not familiar with the Milwaukee router, but you will need to devise a way to attach the two Guide Stop rods firmly to the router.  You will also want to be able to quickly detach the rods from the router.  On the OF1400, there are slots built into the base of the router that accomodate the rods and include a clamping mechanism.
 
I'll look at the actual Guide Stop before purchasing. With a number of after-market edge guides ( or guides of a differing brand from the router ) people have made up an inter-face adapter that steps down or or steps up the distance between the rods to suit the guide, while providing another rod set  matching the spacing and diameter on the router.

It's shown in a number of books, including Bill Hylton's new version of his router book. Which, incidentally, gives details and procedures for Festool equipment.

Thanks again,

Gary Curtis
 
Gary here is a photo of the 1400 with the guide stop.
492601.jpg
 
From the photo does that mean that the thickness of the guide rail needs to be added to the depth of the cutter when calculating total depth of router?
 
Yes the depth is your desired depth of cut plus the amount the router sits above the work surface.  I usually set the router on the guide rail, bring the bit down till it just touches the work surface, zero the depth gage, then set to depth.  Sounds more complicated than it really is.
 
Cheers for that Steven I fully understand what you mean. Is there any real issues with stability given that half the base is off the rail and half on? As you can tell I haven't fired my 1400 in anger yet nor have I purchased the rails but all this great info helps plan one's purchases.
 
Lancashire Fusilier said:
...Is there any real issues with stability given that half the base is off the rail and half on?...

Some folks prefer to let the OF1400 ride on the Guide Rail.  There is an outrigger foot that rides on the work surface on the outside of the router, that helps to stabilize the router.  I prefer to allow the router to sit fully on the work surface, and I have made an auxillary base to add to the bottom of the OF1400 base, to allow the router to sit flat on the work surface.  There is a thread here on that modification:
http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=34.0

You can also buy an auxillary base from Festool:
http://www.festoolusa.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=492574&ID=4
 
Lancashire Fusilier said:
.....Is there any real issues with stability given that half the base is off the rail and half on?

Here is a picture of the outrigger, this photo is of the 1010, but it is the same on the 1400.
routers%20008a.jpg
 
It's obvious in the last photo that the OF 1010 is half riding on the Guide Rail, while the outrigger spans an equal gap to the right of the router. What if the router was totally off the Guide Rail? No binding or ill effects because the rods slope down a bit from the Guide Stop?

And what's the advantage of being off the Guide Rail or on it?

Gary
 
The outrigger is surprisingly effective at bridging gaps.  It's even quite stable when it's supporting the router.  The guide stop has tight-enough tolerances that if you keep your left hand on top of it to ensure it stays seated on the guide rail the router doesn't try to sag much (and not at all when using the outrigger).  That said, if you were going to use the router on the guide rail more than free-hand, Daviddubya's alternate base would definitely be the way to go.  Until I go to the trouble to make that, I'll get by just fine putting half the router on the rail and using the outrigger to make sure it doesn't tip.
 
semenza said:
...Daviddubya,

       Is that Festool snap in base the correct thickness to make  up the Guide Rail thickness?

Seth

The base I made measures just under .20 inches thick.  My home-made base works well with the router riding on the work surface.  The Festool base measures .12 inches thick.  I have not tried it in place of my base.  Maybe someone else has actually used the Festool base, and will chime in here.
 
brandon.nickel said:
...That said, if you were going to use the router on the guide rail more than free-hand, Daviddubya's alternate base would definitely be the way to go....

I leave the auxillary base on the OF1400 router all of the time.  I see no reason to take it off when I am using the router free-hand.  The bit gets zeroed out to the work surface, so everything is set up from there.
 
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