Mike Chrest said:J Voos,
Yup, it is the same finish. If you hand plane you still get ridges(along the grain) but those are marks of handwork & that costs extra ;Dwon't it leave scallops just like a jointer or planer would?
Mike
Michael Kellough said:Mike Chrest said:J Voos,
Yup, it is the same finish. If you hand plane you still get ridges(along the grain) but those are marks of handwork & that costs extra ;Dwon't it leave scallops just like a jointer or planer would?
Mike
Is it really the same? I thought it would be a little better since the blade is skewed/curved.
clintholeman said:.....For final planning of a table top or the like, there is nothing like a good hand plane - IMO.
Craig Earls said:Since I started this thread a few months ago I have actually learned a few things. I can pretty effectively plane using my MFT 1080 using a trick I read about on FWW a few days ago. I clamp the piece so that I can work from the end of the table. I then put my right foot (I plane left handed) on the horizontal beam between the legs. As I push forward I shift some weight to my right foot which holds the MFT nicely in place. It does rack a bit, but not enough to worry about. This wouldn't work with a really long piece.
Steveo48 said:Can this be done to music?
Craig Earls said:Since I started this thread a few months ago I have actually learned a few things. I can pretty effectively plane using my MFT 1080 using a trick I read about on FWW a few days ago. I clamp the piece so that I can work from the end of the table. I then put my right foot (I plane left handed) on the horizontal beam between the legs. As I push forward I shift some weight to my right foot which holds the MFT nicely in place. It does rack a bit, but not enough to worry about. This wouldn't work with a really long piece.
Steveo48 said:Can this be done to music?
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Festoholic said:Craig,
I've got two small MFTs joined together with a Kapex secured on one
Alan