Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.

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The recent thread called "The Domino can't be this easy to use, can it?" made me think maybe the Domino is misunderstood or folks have questions about it.

So, what are your questions about the Domino? 

Post your question(s) and I, or the members of the forum, will do our best to answer them.  Please include whether you currently own the Domino or if you are considering adding one to your stack o' Systainers.  Or, maybe even the questions that you had at one point but have since figured out that may help another forum member.

Don't be shy!  This would also be a great opportunity for some of our forum visitors who have never posted to join the conversations.  [smile]

If it doesn't come up in the course of the conversation, I'll post a few tips in the coming days.

One request: please do not ask about the differences between the version with the pins and the version with the flaps.  There are other threads completely dedicated to that topic.  Thanks.
 
Is there a Domino setup that can be used to align and join 3/4" material at a 45? miter? 

If so what size bit and tenons would work for this, and how do you index the tool?

TIA
 
Jeff, great question.

Yes, you can use the Domino to join 3/4" material at a 45 (miters and bevels). 

For bevels:

Set the fence to a 45-degree angle, then lower the fence height making sure that it is as far down as possible.  It's important the the fence is completely in it's lowest height position to prevent the mortise from plunging completely through the material.  In this position, the mortise will be closest to the inside corner of the miter.  Also, it's important to make sure that you position the Domino correctly against the material.  The best way to do this is to first set the fence on top of the material, pressing firmly down on the handle, and then slide the Domino into the material.  This will ensure that there is no gap between the material and the Domino.

The angle created by the fence is used to index it on the material.

You can use the 5mm cutter and tenons.

domino-bevel.jpg


For miters:

You can index the outside corner of the miter using the pins or flaps on the Domino.  For the inside corner, simply scribe a mark across the two pieces to reference.

In the case of miters, you can use 6mm cutters and tenons.  Generally, you want to use a tenon that is about 1/3 of the thickness of your material.

Again, the key to using the Domino is to keep firm pressure on the handle on the fence.

domino-miter.jpg


Angles other than 45:

You can also use it for angles other than 45-degrees using the same methods.

domino-4mm-4.jpg
domino-4mm-1.jpg
 
Thanks Shane and Rutabagared, I appreciate the tutorial, tips, and photos.  I ordered the Domino today, the mitered joints will be one of the first projects.

Jeff
 
Thanks Shane! When I started that post, I didn't think the Domino was difficult to use from what I had heard, but it was just absurdly easier to use than I thought.  Right out of it's systainer and within five minutes, I had figured out how to miter 3/4 plywood perfectly.  I hope this thread keeps going, because this tool really looks like it's limitations haven't been found.

Once again, thanks.

Jon

(ps, I finally got to change my avatar, but I'm not sure that's a good thing every time I look at it!)

 
Jeff Zanin said:
Thanks Shane and Rutabagared, I appreciate the tutorial, tips, and photos.  I ordered the Domino today, the mitered joints will be one of the first projects.

Glad it was helpful, Jeff. Please share some photos and your experiences with the Domino in the future.

Any other questions out there in FOGland?
 
I need to make enclosed rectangular boxes out of prefinished materials to act as rolling seats for a game room.  Is it possible to domino the tops and bottoms to the sides as well as domino the mitered joints.  I can't wrap my head around it.  The tops aren't going to be seen so they will be butt into the sides.

 
Jonhilgen said:
I need to make enclosed rectangular boxes out of prefinished materials to act as rolling seats for a game room.  Is it possible to domino the tops and bottoms to the sides as well as domino the mitered joints.  I can't wrap my head around it.  The tops aren't going to be seen so they will be butt into the sides.

Jon, so are you saying that ALL corners of the cube will be mitered including the top and bottoms to the sides so there are no exposed joints? Or, you're going to miter all the sides together and the tops and bottom will be inset flush to the sides?

Just want to make sure I understand the question.
 
Jonhilgen said:
Is it possible to domino the tops and bottoms to the sides as well as domino the mitered joints.  I can't wrap my head around it.  The tops aren't going to be seen so they will be butt into the sides.

Gary Katz did something like that when he made a some sort of workbench or cutting table--mitered edging around the work surface.  It's over at the journal of light construction.

It will definitely work if you only put dominos in only one pair of opposing sides of the tops and bottoms.  If you're using ply, chipboard or MDF, I think you can get a strong enough glue bond on the other pair of opposing sides with just a butt joint.

It may also work if you use the middle or widest settings when making the mortises to receive the tenons joining the top with the sides (and the bottom with the sides).  I'd try a prototype before using this approach, just to make sure.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

John
 
Shane Holland said:
Jonhilgen said:
I need to make enclosed rectangular boxes out of prefinished materials to act as rolling seats for a game room.  Is it possible to domino the tops and bottoms to the sides as well as domino the mitered joints.  I can't wrap my head around it.  The tops aren't going to be seen so they will be butt into the sides.

Jon, so are you saying that ALL corners of the cube will be mitered including the top and bottoms to the sides so there are no exposed joints? Or, you're going to miter all the sides together and the tops and bottom will be inset flush to the sides?

Just want to make sure I understand the question.

Shane,

Tops and sides will inset to flush the sides, not mitered into them. 

I'll look into Katz's workbench to see if I can get some ideas though.

Thanks guys.
 
Shane Holland said:
Jonhilgen said:
I need to make enclosed rectangular boxes out of prefinished materials to act as rolling seats for a game room.  Is it possible to domino the tops and bottoms to the sides as well as domino the mitered joints.  I can't wrap my head around it.  The tops aren't going to be seen so they will be butt into the sides.

Jon, so are you saying that ALL corners of the cube will be mitered including the top and bottoms to the sides so there are no exposed joints? Or, you're going to miter all the sides together and the tops and bottom will be inset flush to the sides?

Just want to make sure I understand the question.

Shane,

Now I have to build a box in which three sides and the top are going to be mitered (the back of the box will be butt against a wall, )  the top, front, left and right will be visible.  Can all of the mitered joints be domino'd?
Thanks,

Jon
 
Jonhilgen said:
Now I have to build a box in which three sides and the top are going to be mitered (the back of the box will be butt against a wall, )  the top, front, left and right will be visible.  Can all of the mitered joints be domino'd

Jon,

Great question.  I have never personally tried that type of application.  I believe you may run into a challenge with assembly having that many mitered sides.  Let me check with our trainers and see if they have some advice on how to tackle this particular application. 

Also some of our members may have some advice in the mean time.
 
Just thinking out loud........

I would say yes by setting the dominoes as you would do a butt/lap joint, but well offset from center to where the meat of the mitres are. Not perpendicular to the mitre itself, as you normally would. This way your joints would assemble in a `parallel` motion as opposed to a `contracting` motion.
 
I had sent Jon a PM asking the dimensions of his material.  I think the best method may be to make the mortises on the top prior to cutting the miters.  This would make assembly a lot easier since the tenons would be straight up and down versus trying to assemble something with 45 degree tenons on three sides which may or may not be possible since I've never tried it.  Maybe someone else has and can offer some input.  I would think that if you chose to make the mortises at 45's then you would want to use the widest mortise setting on the Domino to give more wiggle room for assembly.

Just my 2 cents.

If time permits, I may experiment at home this weekend.

PS - I have to give credit to seeing someone else come up with the idea of creating the mortise prior to the miter.  I can't remember who but I think it was posted here or on talkFestool at some point.

Edit: I think it was this post by Tezzer that gave me the idea.
 
Shane,

I guess that is what I meant. I knew that the mortise/tenons had to run parallel to assembly. Having read your post, for stability & accuracy's sake, it would only make sense to cut the mortise(s) prior to cutting the mitre.

 
harry_ said:
Shane,

I guess that is what I meant. I knew that the mortise/tenons had to run parallel to assembly. Having read your post, for stability & accuracy's sake, it would only make sense to cut the mortise(s) prior to cutting the mitre.

Brilliant guys.  I just couldn't wrap my head around the top section, but mortising prior to mitering sounds like the way to go (I hope)!  I'm working on site this weekend but don't know if I'm going to get to that area.  I might fuss around with some scraps if I have time as well.

Jon
 
plunge depth is going to be critical as you will be removing much of the mortise material when you cut the mitre. you will need to account for that. Or if necessary, you could shorten the domino.

Sorry, my familiarity with the domino is limited, but I have done this with dowels so the same principles apply.

I am sure that you will see what I mean.
 
Just completed the cabinet class.  Great experience.  Best tip. Grasp the Domono by the plug-it-chord, place your thumb on the back of the motor just above the plug-it-chord and push straight in.  Great control.  No deflection.

Don
 
dsweetser said:
Just completed the cabinet class.  Great experience.  Best tip. Grasp the Domono by the plug-it-chord, place your thumb on the back of the motor just above the plug-it-chord and push straight in.  Great control.  No deflection.

Don
Amen to that Don.  One of the best things I took from training as well.
 
Sean Ackerman said:
dsweetser said:
Just completed the cabinet class.  Great experience.  Best tip. Grasp the Domono by the plug-it-chord, place your thumb on the back of the motor just above the plug-it-chord and push straight in.  Great control.  No deflection.

Don
Amen to that Don.  One of the best things I took from training as well.

Have been putting that technique to good use as well.  Mitering a ton of prefinished 3/4" panels on site and each one is better than the next.  Thanks for the tip

Jon
 
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