Have a question about the Domino? Get answers here.

Here's a Domino question...

On another forum, a fellow was asking what would be the most effective way to bore thousands of holes to accomodate hollow aluminum spindles for an outdoor deck.  The suggestion I offered was to see if using the Domino and Cross Stop attachment to set sipo dominos in the upper and lower rail would be feasible based on the width of the ID of the spindles versus the width of a Domino not requiring shaving down the dominos in order to accomodate.  The question I thought of afterwards though was with the spindle basically floating, would there be issues with either the SIPO ultimately bloating, or are they truly waterproof over time?

Another question I had semi-related is whether there are 4mm SIPO's?  Couldn't find them on the website nor at a few retailers I checked.  If they are not available currently, are there any coming out down the road?

And another semi-related Q, when will the Domino Deck Fastening System be arriving in NA?  I know it is scheduled to arrive, but is this imminent.  I have a deck building project that hopefully will get off the ground before this winter myself, and would entertain using it.

Here's a link to the "1,000 Holes" thread on the other forum, for those interested:

http://forum.canadianwoodworking.com/showthread.php?t=34575
 
Wow, that's a lot of questions, Kevin!  [big grin] Let me see if I can answer them all.

As I understand it, the Sipo is a species of mahogany and is resistant to rot and thus better for outdoor use.  I don't know specifically about it's tendency to swell over time but maybe someone else has some knowledge about that.  If not, I can ask some of my colleagues and find the answer.

I have not heard of any plans to offer a 4mm Sipo tenon.  I can check to make sure I am correct in saying that there are no immediate plans to offer one.

The decking fasteners... well, I don't know for sure.  I would expect to see them in the next 6 months but as far as I know there is no specific launch date planned at this point.
 
Hi Shane,
I have on several occasions  used  Dominos for cabinet construction in 16mm Melamine faced board (Craftwood in Australia). Using the 5mm by 30 mm dominoes I find it often "breaks" through the melamine face surface of the board ruining the panel. I have found the only solution is to pre cut 4mm off the Dominos which works but is time consuming and frustrating. Do you have any suggestions other that to move to the new 4mm Domino?
Regards
Barry
 
Barry, I think 16mm is cutting super close (as you already know). One thing that helps a little, be sure to have the piece backed up when inserting the tenons. What I mean is be sure the backside of the piece is on something solid like your work bench. If the piece is aloud to over hang the bench the tenon can be easily driven right though the side of the piece since there isn't any support behind the thin material remaining.

The fastest way to cut down tenons in to make a number of mortises in a scrap piece, insert the tenons and run them through a table saw.

It wouldn't be much trouble to switch over to the 4mm cutter/tenons since tenons are mostly for aliment on cabinets (at least for me). 
 
Barryduck said:
H Using the 5mm by 30 mm dominoes I find it often "breaks" through the melamine face surface of the board ruining the panel. I have found the only solution is to pre cut 4mm off the Dominos which works but is time consuming and frustrating. Do you have any suggestions other that to move to the new 4mm Domino?
Regards
Barry
Click to expand...

How deep are you mortising?  When mortising 90 degrees to the face of the board, I will mortise the minimum depth - 12mm.

Then mortise 20 mm into the joining board because you are mortising parallel to the plane and hence have plentybof material below the bottom of the mortise.  You can mortise 15 mm.....at least I've successfully done so.
 
Tim Sproul said:
How deep are you mortising?  When mortising 90 degrees to the face of the board, I will mortise the minimum depth - 12mm.

Then mortise 20 mm into the joining board because you are mortising parallel to the plane and hence have plentybof material below the bottom of the mortise.  You can mortise 15 mm.....at least I've successfully done so.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that will help but it's not hard to blow right though 4mm if you aren't careful.
 
I generally plunge to 20mm into the end of one piece when joining to say a 16mm side. I then fit the domino to that piece first, ensuring that the amount protruding is no more than 12mm before fitting to the side piece. That way the domino can't blow through, there simply isn't enough protruding to cause a problem.

 
southern_guy said:
I generally plunge to 20mm into the end of one piece when joining to say a 16mm side. I then fit the domino to that piece first, ensuring that the amount protruding is no more than 12mm before fitting to the side piece. That way the domino can't blow through, there simply isn't enough protruding to cause a problem.
Click to expand...

The domino itself can't physically push through, but the hydraulic pressure of the glue can...
 
Brice Burrell said:
Barry, I think 16mm is cutting super close (as you already know). One thing that helps a little, be sure to have the piece backed up when inserting the tenons. What I mean is be sure the backside of the piece is on something solid like your work bench. If the piece is aloud to over hang the bench the tenon can be easily driven right though the side of the piece since there isn't any support behind the thin material remaining.

The fastest way to cut down tenons in to make a number of mortises in a scrap piece, insert the tenons and run them through a table saw.

It wouldn't be much trouble to switch over to the 4mm cutter/tenons since tenons are mostly for aliment on cabinets (at least for me).   
[/quote

Brice,
Thanks for your input. Yes I had had experience with the tenon being driven through the side of the piece. To obviate this I always drive the tenon into the other piece first and then back up the face piece as you describe. I think however you are correct  in that the clearance is just too fine and so its either cut the 30mm tenons down or use the 4mm cutter which I have thus far been unable to source in AUstralia. I also used your method of inserting a number of tenons into π side of a scrap piece and then cutting them all to size simultaneously.
Regards
Barry
Click to expand...
 
Guys, thanks for stepping in and helping to respond to the question.  I apologize but I was away from my computer and thus the forum for most of the day.

Shane
 
Brice,
Thanks for the tip and the link . I have been waiting for Ideal Tools to get these items in stock so I will get in contact with them. This looks like a fast trouble free solution to working in 16mm board with sufficient strength and no danger of breaking through the face.
My thanks to all the other respondents for their suggestion and help
Regards
Barry
 
I just have a quick question. In the domino supplementary manual it says that you should only ever change the mortise width when the domino is on. Why is that?
 
Chris Meggersee said:
I just have a quick question. In the domino supplementary manual it says that you should only ever change the mortise width when the domino is on. Why is that?
Click to expand...

Chris, it's because of the transmission on the Domino. The gears mesh easier when it's running.  It also says this in the original owners manual.
 
Chris,
It is OK to turn the dial when the tool is not running, as long as you don't force it. Sometimes the dial will turn very easy when stopped because the components are already lined up. If the components are not lined up, forcing the dial will break it. It is just easier to say always turn the dial while running.
 
Rick Christopherson said:
Chris,
It is OK to turn the dial when the tool is not running, as long as you don't force it. Sometimes the dial will turn very easy when stopped because the components are already lined up. If the components are not lined up, forcing the dial will break it. It is just easier to say always turn the dial while running.
Click to expand...

Ah that is what I really wanted to know. Thank you. Obviously I have never forced it and nor will I ever but I worried that I was doing some kind of damage to by always changing it only when off.

Thanks Rick and Shane!
 
Chris, I've found that it's easier to rotate it counter-clockwise when off than clockwise (without forcing it, that is).
 
I have a theory that this is like a stick shift manual transmission.
Sometimes when you turn the car off, you can put it in gear without depressing the clutch.  Sometimes you can't, because the gears aren't lined up, and they aren't moving.

Similarly, you can actually shift while driving, without using the clutch, but you have to get lucky with the timing to get into gear.  You can always shift *out* of gear while driving, without using the clutch. 

So, I think the widest mortise is fully "in gear", and you "downshift" through the middle width, and finally a downshift to the normal width.

[huh]
 
No, it is not as simple as a gear mesh, and thinking it is this simple might cause someone to try to force it because a gear mesh can typically be overcome. The drivetrain of the sweep mechanism is very complex and includes the movement of a yoke and several satellite gears.

If it doesn't move with zero-resistance, then don't move it!!!
 
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