Heavy duty remote for dust collector?
- Thread starter 4nthony
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squall_line
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montyss said:Yes I did exactly that what you showed , followed the directions to a tee attaching but get the Fake path .. I'll look for a web server to load them too first
Thanks for the help
You get bad paths in the preview, but they still end up rendering just fine after posting. At least, when I post from Safari on my Mac, that's what I get/see.
smorgasbord
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Just a note on the Make Everything video posted (first one). There should also be a connection from the ground wires to the metal box. That way if a live wire inside gets loose, it'll go to ground directly instead of going through a person touching the box to ground.
Also note that other versions of this remote (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097R4PCX8/ andhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0923161K1/ for instance) are rated only to 30 amps, and a disclaimer for 3000 watt resistive load, 800 watt inductive load. And this one (https://www.amazon.com/dstfuy-Distance-Wireless-Electrical-Equipment/dp/B08F1FYF7W/ ) says "The Relay adopts 40A relay, which can load high-power electrical appliances to ensure long-term stability control.(Note:max load:30A)"
But even there, with only 800 watts for an inductive load (which includes motor loads), that's less than 7 amps at 110 volts, and under 4 amps at 220 volts. So, this switch won't last long long with 220 volt dust collectors.
Oh, and none of these are UL listed, btw.
Also note that other versions of this remote (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097R4PCX8/ andhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0923161K1/ for instance) are rated only to 30 amps, and a disclaimer for 3000 watt resistive load, 800 watt inductive load. And this one (https://www.amazon.com/dstfuy-Distance-Wireless-Electrical-Equipment/dp/B08F1FYF7W/ ) says "The Relay adopts 40A relay, which can load high-power electrical appliances to ensure long-term stability control.(Note:max load:30A)"
But even there, with only 800 watts for an inductive load (which includes motor loads), that's less than 7 amps at 110 volts, and under 4 amps at 220 volts. So, this switch won't last long long with 220 volt dust collectors.
Oh, and none of these are UL listed, btw.
4nthony
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smorgasbord said:
I noticed one of the comments on the video also mentioned the lack of UL certification. I'm going to pass on that option and put together one with a contactor. I wish my local big box stores carried them but no one seems to have them in stock so I'll order one online. Amazon has a bunch of 30 and 40 AMP 2 pole 120V coil contactors but not many 20A. Though, I don't think it matters if a 30A contactor is used on a 20A circuit.
If I use a metal box, I'll be sure to ground it. Thanks!
Its fine to use a 30 or 40 amp contactor on a 20 amp circuit. The contactor is only stating the max load and has nothing to do with protection of the circuit. The circuit breaker is feeding the contactor and the contactor is just a interrupter As long as your circuit breaker is sized correctly is what matters. However you would not want to use a 30amp contactor on a 40amp circuit. but the other way around is not an issue.
mino
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To add, I would actually advise against using anything less than 30A or 40A on a 20A circuit with a strong preference to the 40A rated ones.afish said:
The "20A circuit" is not about max current but about max sustained current. Start-up currents from motors or even switched power supplies working OK on it can be in the 100A range easily.
Granted, this is a non-issue with Festool as all their tools are soft-start. But if I planned to connect a tool rated at 10A without a soft start, I would want a switch which can handle 50A or so of inrush current the tool can produce.
In fact, a good contactor should have the in-rush current specced separately from the continous load rating.
4nthony
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Thanks guys.
I guess my only other question is, other than amp and voltage ratings, are contactors more or less the same? In some of the descriptions, they'll mention heavy duty lighting, HVAC, definite purpose, etc.
But when I looked up definite purpose, I found:
Definite Purpose Starters are electrically operated switching devices specifically designed for the heating, ventilation, air conditioning and refrigeration (HVAC) industry. They are controlled by automatic thermostat control or manual pushbutton interfaces."
Which sounds like includes all the other descriptions.
Is there a specific type of contactor I should avoid? I'm thinking this 40A 120V contactor should be ok. Thoughts?
I guess my only other question is, other than amp and voltage ratings, are contactors more or less the same? In some of the descriptions, they'll mention heavy duty lighting, HVAC, definite purpose, etc.
But when I looked up definite purpose, I found:
Definite Purpose Starters are electrically operated switching devices specifically designed for the heating, ventilation, air conditioning and refrigeration (HVAC) industry. They are controlled by automatic thermostat control or manual pushbutton interfaces."
Which sounds like includes all the other descriptions.
Is there a specific type of contactor I should avoid? I'm thinking this 40A 120V contactor should be ok. Thoughts?
The contactor itself doesnt care what its hooked to its just an on/off switch. The part that matters is the coil. Some operate off of different voltages such as 24v which is popular in US HVAC systems. The L & T side are simply broken/disconnected when the coil is energized it bridges the gap between them mechanically by pulling a conductor across the 2 terminals. The "coil" is essentially an electromagnet that operates the conductor/bridge between the terminals. They do come in 2 varieties. normally open and normally closed and thats just as it sounds normally open at rest without the coil being energized the connection between L & T terminals is broken so motor will not run. Normally closed will allow the L & T terminals to be connected at rest and will break the connection upon energizing the coil. The normally open is the more common type.
