Help finding Kapex Armature Replacement Guide

[Svar]

I used claw style puller before (FYI, no experience with Kapex). Once I had to re-grind the tips to make it grab right. I just assume the bearing is damaged after this, since you pull by the outer race of the bearing. When installing new one you push by the inner race (using a piece of pipe, for example), so its OK.
No experience with Shankly Bearing Separator. Looks clever.

If you are replacing the armature, why do you want to remove the bearing from it? Replace the whole thing including new bearing and fan.

 

[RKA]

Something that might be easier to find locally might be a wiper arm removal tool (the style with the claws)

 

[jeh]

Something that might be easier to find locally might be a wiper arm removal tool (the style with the claws)

Something like this:https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Battery-Terminal-Wiper-Puller/dp/B078RNWMNZ/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=wiper+removal+tool&qid=1549661217&sr=8-9

 

[Cheese]

Something like this:https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Battery-Terminal-Wiper-Puller/dp/B078RNWMNZ/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=wiper+removal+tool&qid=1549661217&sr=8-9

Yes, you need the thin flat jaws to get a good purchase on the bearing.

On other motorcycle/auto projects, I’ll use a 2- jaw bearing puller and a C-clamp over the end of the bearing puller jaws to direct pressure to the jaws and prevent them from pulling away from the bearing.

So snug up the BP, snug up the CC, then 1/4 turn more on the BP and resnug the CC. It’s the combination of slowly moving the bearing away from an interfering part so that the jaws of the BP will securely grip the outer race of the bearing.

On 3 jaw pullers I’ve replaced the C-clamp with my hand just to make sure the jaws don’t slip.

Added note: That battery terminal puller may not have enough reach, tough to tell. Check to make sure the puller has enough travel.

I’d take the Kapex armature to a NAPA store to help you sort out the puller you need.

 

[jeh]

Something like this:https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Battery-Terminal-Wiper-Puller/dp/B078RNWMNZ/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=wiper+removal+tool&qid=1549661217&sr=8-9

Yes, you need the thin flat jaws to get a good purchase on the bearing.

On other motorcycle/auto projects, I’ll use a 2- jaw bearing puller and a C-clamp over the end of the bearing puller jaws to direct pressure to the jaws and prevent them from pulling away from the bearing.

So snug up the BP, snug up the CC, then 1/4 turn more on the BP and resnug the CC. It’s the combination of slowly moving the bearing away from an interfering part so that the jaws of the BP will securely grip the outer race of the bearing.

On 3 jaw pullers I’ve replaced the C-clamp with my hand just to make sure the jaws don’t slip.

Added note: That battery terminal puller may not have enough reach, tough to tell. Check to make sure the puller has enough travel.

I’d take the Kapex armature to a NAPA store to help you sort out the puller you need.

+1 on heading to Napa.

 

[tjbnwi]

This is how the armature I received came. The bearings, housing, baffle and fan came pre installed.

Funny thing is, I have all the pullers and a press if I needed to swap parts.

Tom

 

[jeh]

This is how the armature I received came. The bearings, housing, baffle and fan came pre installed.

Funny thing is, I have all the pullers and a press if I needed to swap parts.

Tom

I received what you have except I did not get the metal housing. I guess had I bought that and the bearing they would have assemble it for me.

 

[tjbnwi]

This is how the armature I received came. The bearings, housing, baffle and fan came pre installed.

Funny thing is, I have all the pullers and a press if I needed to swap parts.

Tom

I received what you have except I did not get the metal housing. I guess had I bought that and the bearing they would have assemble it for me.

All I ordered was the armature (no bearings, no fan, no housing), it came as pictured in the box.

Tom

 

[ChuckM]

Perhaps Sedge should do a tip (5 mins long with one of the technicians from the Repair Dept) on how to replace the armature, step by step (no need to rush) for us Kapex owners!!! 8)

I heard that Festool has recently set up a service (repair?) centre in Canada.

 

[jeh]

I have folded and am building the Field Assembly. It and armature still stink after 3 days of being separated. Getting a new bearing and o-ring and some other small items so I am starting out new again. I'll post back after the second round of parts arrive.

I'm disappointed I did not get housing like [member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] did.

 

[glass1]

Interesting. Different service for different folks.

 

[peter halle]

Here is information I received in response to a question I sent to Festool:

“The two part numbers that you referenced are:

A)  The individual armature only (203553)
B)  the end shield (203552) which has the armature noted above and all associated components assembled into one assembly

The Difference:

One might purchase the end shield if they do not have the appropriate fixture, tools, and test gauges to remove as well as press bearings and the other components included.”

The current US cost for the armature is $162.04.  For the complete assembly - $167.64.

Peter

 

[peter halle]

Interesting. Different service for different folks.

Perhaps at the time Tom ordered his there was only an assembly.  Or perhaps there was a back order and there was a part substitution.  Or someone accidentally sent the wrong part whereas the part numbers are so close.

But here is one certainty:  Tom would not have asked for preferential treatment.  Tom does favors for people and does not expect anyone to do anything special for him.

Peter

 

[Gregor]

The current US cost for the armature is $162.04.  For the complete assembly - $167.64.

The $5 difference should be a no-brainer.

 

[RKA]

Thanks Peter!!!  That’s incredibly helpful!  I’m putting the extra $5 in the cookie jar, seems worth it!  [smile]

 

[tjbnwi]

Interesting. Different service for different folks.

I'll explain how this went about;

We burnt up 2 MFK-700's (definite router abuse). Sent them in to be rebuilt (love those routers).

Service called with quote. I said fine, fix them, while we're at it send me an armature for a Kapex, gave him one of the serial numbers, his response was, brings the total to $xxx.xx. At no point did I know what was chosen at the other end, all I know is I was getting an armature. I doubt the person the other end of the line had any clue who I was.

As you can see from the previously posted pictures, the armature is still in the box. Since I got the armature---of course a control board went out, had to order one replace that on one of the Kapex(s).

As I said previously, I'm the guy with the knowledge, tools and equipment to change the armature out. Go figure....

Tom

 

[Cheese]

Since I got the armature---of course a control board went out, had to order one replace that on one of the Kapex(s).

Hey Tom, I'm curious what properties the Kapex displayed when the control board went south? Thanks...

 

[jeh]

Here is information I received in response to a question I sent to Festool:

“The two part numbers that you referenced are:

A)  The individual armature only (203553)
B)  the end shield (203552) which has the armature noted above and all associated components assembled into one assembly

The Difference:

One might purchase the end shield if they do not have the appropriate fixture, tools, and test gauges to remove as well as press bearings and the other components included.”

The current US cost for the armature is $162.04.  For the complete assembly - $167.64.

Peter

It is quite the savings to purchase it that way. I missed out on that. The diagrams I was looking at showed the individual parts only, so I was looking at the other drawings.

 

[tjbnwi]

Since I got the armature---of course a control board went out, had to order one replace that on one of the Kapex(s).

Hey Tom, I'm curious what properties the Kapex displayed when the control board went south? Thanks...

A cut was made, returned to saw to make next cut nothing. No lasers, nothing. Checked circuit by switching the CT from auto to manual. CT turned on. Maybe bad CT board?????, grabbed another CT, nothing.

When I had time, pulled cover, checked power in, good there, checked power at the brush holders—-nothing.

Tom

 

[jeh]

Interesting. Different service for different folks.

Perhaps at the time Tom ordered his there was only an assembly.  Or perhaps there was a back order and there was a part substitution.  Or someone accidentally sent the wrong part whereas the part numbers are so close.

But here is one certainty:  Tom would not have asked for preferential treatment.  Tom does favors for people and does not expect anyone to do anything special for him.

Peter

I'm calling today to see if I can swap out instead of buying more parts. I'll post if I am successful. I am hoping TylerC will see this and give me a hand if need be.