help me help me my ts75 isnt cutting smooth

[Billy stray]

i seem to be having the same problem as "solid" was having with his ts 55 , i saw alot of comments in the thread and ive tried them all (i think ?) i dont want to send it to festool only to get it back the same way ?
anyone ever here back from solid on the final outcome ?
it still cuts plywood pretty well but any hardwood is just awful in the finish dept , i know what the saw is capable of because ive used it for glue joints in the past.....
thanks
Billy Stray

 

[MrToolJunkie]

Could be the toe-in needs to be adjusted. I would call Festool service first to diagnose the problem. Pics would be helpful too.

 

[Kev]

All those simple things checked ... Sharp blade, clean blade, yes - toe in, etc. Those things can all easily tun a good saw bad!

 

[Tyler Ernsberger]

What tooth blade are you using?  If im going through thick hardwood I have to go slower to get a better cut with the factory blade.  I would recommend  the panter blade its designed  for rip cuts in hardwoods. 

 

[Billy stray]

ok guys my first question is
whats a toe in adjustment ?
and can i use a panther for glue ready joints ?
one guy in the thread i was reading reguardind solids problem suggested realighning the base in relation to the blade with "2 simple screws" the only problem with that is i cant seem to find these "2 simple screws"  lol .....

 

[tjbnwi]

What are you cutting Billy.

The TS 75 ripping 8/4 hard maple;



Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

ok guys my first question is
whats a toe in adjustment ?
and can i use a panther for glue ready joints ?
one guy in the thread i was reading reguardind solids problem suggested realighning the base in relation to the blade with "2 simple screws" the only problem with that is i cant seem to find these "2 simple screws"  lol .....

Toe in is the front of the blade is canted in slightly in relationship to the rear of the blade.

Glue joints need to be straight and square, a perfect surface is not necessary. A little tooth helps the bond.

Look for the TS 55 supplemental manual it shows the screws and how to set the toe.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

http://www.waterfront-woods.com/festool/TS_55_EQ_US.pdf

Page 12 shows the screws. Use the matching procedure, there should be about 0.006" between the rear tooth and the board.

Tom

 

[Billy stray]

im cutting 1x hard maple im also getting alot of burns about half way thru the cut on an 8ft length
btw i saw your video on you tube about straight line ripping, im jealous at the moment  lol

 

[tjbnwi]

im cutting 1x hard maple im also getting alot of burns about half way thru the cut on an 8ft length
btw i saw your video on you tube about straight line ripping, im jealous at the moment  lol

I believe you have a dirty blade. whatever is on it is getting hot causing the burning. Clean the blade, maple is a sticky wood. ------to answer your question CMT blade and bit cleaner.

If you have another blade give it a try.

Thank you, nothing to be jealous of.

Tom

 

[Billy stray]

maybe not but your saw seems to work great
ill give it a try ,  thanks everyone

 

[Kev]

Just a thought also ... to eliminate issues, try cutting a very short section - let things cool down, cut a bit more - let it cool, etc. If this ultimately gives you a clean cut you know it's heat build up and that's probably just a blunt or dirty blade (or you're using the wrong type of blade).

 

[Caly]

If you re play your vid....get to about 52 seconds and listen to the saw tremble!!!!!!!!!!!

Try turning the speed down to 4, then go a little steadier.

Just cut some 40mm bamboo worktops with my 75 and basically no problems and it is a lot harder than maple.

 

[tjbnwi]

If you re play your vid....get to about 52 seconds and listen to the saw tremble!!!!!!!!!!!

Try turning the speed down to 4, then go a little steadier.

Just cut some 40mm bamboo worktops with my 75 and basically no problems and it is a lot harder than maple.

The choice of blade was to match what the OP had used from a different thread. It would not be my first choice of blade.

Bamboo has a Janka rating of 1380, which puts its harness closer to oak. Hard/sugar maple has a Janka rating of 1450, making it harder than bamboo.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test

The bamboo I've worked with I've always considered soft, I'm surprised to see it rated so high in hardness.

Tom

 

[Caly]

mmmm.................is that the rating given 40mm layered up bamboo to form a solid worktop, as in a bamboo plywood structure.................it was hard enough.

 

[sancho57]

You can also adjust your speed that might help. Slow the blade down a bit.