Help! Need hinges for cabinets with pull-outs

[FlobeySolo]

Need some advice from the experts, please.

Building a set of built-ins, some of which have pull out drawers. What hinges do you recommend that will stay out of the way of the drawer?

I'm using Blum undermount blue motion slides, and sent the below note to a hardware customer service team thinking I could not fail with their advice...perhaps it got lost in translation - or I wasn't clear - but their recommendation will NOT work.

Could you please recommend a hinge solution for cabinets with pull out drawers? I've scoured the catalog but cannot find what I need. Cabinets on the same built-in that do not require pullouts are using the 955A1006 hinge.

-5/16" max arm thickness (3/8 gap from drawer outside edge to inside cabinet) Using bluemotion undermount drawer slide
-5/8" overlay
-Frameless cabinet
-3/4" thick door
-35mm cup


They recommended a 0 protrusion hinge either - 155 or 125 degree - that would supposedly clear it. The drawer would indeed clear the door when opened, but the problem is the drawer will not open because it hits the hinge part that mounts to the cabinet carcass. There is not enough clearance between the outside of the drawer and the hinge.

Thanks!

 

[tjbnwi]

Move the hinge location or space the drawer in. No other way I know of to get around the backplate and hinge.

Sometimes you have to improvise.

Tom

 

[hitandruntz]

look  into the blumotion compact hinges. I had the same issue and the compact hinges handled the small gap. I had to use a face frame mount hinge on a euro style box, wasnt a big deal though. the protrusion was 5/16" into the cabinet and I had a 3/8" space from box to drawer. the only issue you might have is your overlay. check the blum compact catalog. good luck!

 

[hitandruntz]

"COMPACT BLUMOTION 38N for partial overlay"  might be the ticket. the protrusion into the box is 7/16" and the overlay is 1/2". you could mortise the hinge into the carcas an 1/8" to get the proper clearance and the correct overlay.

 

[Brent Taylor]

I second the Blums.

 

[Oldwood]

Why put the drawers behind doors? Then you need to open 2 doors so you pull the drawer out [eek]

OK I'll get off my soapbox now [big grin]

Gerry

 

[FlobeySolo]

Strongly considered that, Gerry, but I'm going for a bit of a modern, clean look...just a wall of slab doors with no hardware - 14 ft wide 9 ft tall. Open, lit display boxes on top. 7 tower carcasses, each in three sections. 1 door per section. Hardest part so far is getting the reveals lining up across the 14 ft of wall, but that's another topic...

 

[Billedis]

Would like to see some pics!  Bill

 

[Scorpion]

Move the hinge location or space the drawer in. No other way I know of to get around the backplate and hinge.

Sometimes you have to improvise.

Tom

I did as Tom recommended.  It's really easy and most manufacturers do it this way. Here's a set I did.  My spacers were made out of 3/4 x 1 1/2 material (same as the Frame). 

I domino'd and glued them into a single assembly.

I wanted mine to be not obvious so I mounted the front spacer as far forward a possible (so it could appear to be part of the fece dram and finished the same).  If you inset the drawers as minimal as possible the drawer slide spacer will need to be relieved to allow the back of the face frame hinge clearance.

The rears do not need the relieved.  Drawers are made to the inner dimensions (as opposed to the face frame dimensions - yeah, I forgot that step and had to modify all of them when k found out because I made all of the drawers from a drawing/parts list).  Here's a view of the final profile installed.

 

[Oldwood]

Hi Colby,

Another option is to fix the door or doors to the bottom drawer then you have access to the upper drawer after opening the lower. I know what you mean about the look but drawers behind doors is a pet peeve of mine

Here is a wall of cabinets but a more traditional style.

Gerry

 

[FlobeySolo]

You all are giving me some great ideas...and and always seeing really impressive work. I have much to learn...

I think you've convinced me to abandon the drawers behind the doors concept. I'll need to change the order of the carcasses as they are installed to make it harmonious, but that's not a big deal...you'll see my incredibly sophisticated mockup from Excel below what I am thinking. Doing it in excel allowed me to easily play with dimensions to make it fit and get a sense of materials. Dotted lines are adjustable shelves, green are pullouts. Will be oak stained espresso, with the gray being the open lit boxes.

Laying it out this way keeps the cabinets with drawers at least together and symmetrical. Thoughts?

 

[semenza]

You could still have the drawers be clean slabs with no hardware if you go with a push to open type.

Seth

 

[BUTTER]

We try to maintain consistency with out hinge hardware (standard Blum cliptops), so we usually either block out the drawer bank with a 3/4" panel or use Blum's 1" thick spacers. 

 

[Oldwood]

I agree with Seth. If you pattern match all the grain and have a thin edge band it won't detract from the overall look to have the Drawers wherever they are the most convenient to access.

Gerry

 

[tjbnwi]

Most of the casework I do has drawers behind doors and drawers behind drawers.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

Hardest part so far is getting the reveals lining up across the 14 ft of wall, but that's another topic...

Playing cards. Thats all it takes to get them aligned.

Tom

 

[mastercabman]

Blum does make a surface mount hinge
But I will have to check what size overlay they have

Just checked their website
Calls for 1 3/8" or greater overlay
Blum compact 38b

 

[Tyler Ernsberger]

Move the hinge location or space the drawer in. No other way I know of to get around the backplate and hinge.

Sometimes you have to improvise.

Tom

I did as Tom recommended.  It's really easy and most manufacturers do it this way. Here's a set I did.  My spacers were made out of 3/4 x 1 1/2 material (same as the Frame). 

I domino'd and glued them into a single assembly.

I wanted mine to be not obvious so I mounted the front spacer as far forward a possible (so it could appear to be part of the fece dram and finished the same).  If you inset the drawers as minimal as possible the drawer slide spacer will need to be relieved to allow the back of the face frame hinge clearance.

The rears do not need the relieved.  Drawers are made to the inner dimensions (as opposed to the face frame dimensions - yeah, I forgot that step and had to modify all of them when k found out because I made all of the drawers from a drawing/parts list).  Here's a view of the final profile installed.

I pocket hole my drawer boxes together too.  It makes a very strong and durable drawer box.  Great pictures