Help needed for making picture frames with TS55

yverof

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Joined
Feb 5, 2009
Messages
24
Hello to every one.

I have posted the following question in a previous post,

"How would you approach cutting picture frames using the MFT/3. I would not always make frames of the same size or thikness. Should I use the holes, or the angle cut or should I build a dedicated jig ? If this has already been discused, please forgive me and be kind to point me to the right place."


May-be it was the wrong place or title so I will try to explain it better.

I have seen a few videos and posts to make picture frames, but it was always cut using a table saw or a miter Saw.

Is there a good way to cut the frames using the TS55 ?
Has any one built a jig to make this possible ?

Your help would be appreciated

Yves

 
I would be hard pressed to recommend using the TS55 to make picture frames.  Since you need to cut opposite 45 degree miters in every piece, doing that accurately and repeatedly with a TS55 would be a challenge and a setup PITA, IMHO, IYKWIM.  Do you have an alternative?
 
Welcome to the forum, sorry no one replied sooner. I completely agree with David. I understand the MFT/3 has an improved fence and miter gauge but I can't imagine it will work well for furniture quality miters. My first choice would be a a miter saw other people might prefer a table saw. 
 
While I'd recommend a table saw or a Kapex, if you're up for experimentation with your MFT, here is an idea you might try...  I quickly drew it up in Sketchup so you could get the idea. 

Make a 2' x 2' 3/4 base with two guides at 45 degrees and a back fence at 90 degrees to the guide rail.   Drill a series of 1/4" holes and use a small wedge (in red in the image) to hold the moulding on one side or the other of the two legs.  That would let you assure that you always had a 45 degree miter and let you move the pieces ot one side or the other.  You might try to stick an adhesive ruler on either leg of the miter fences so you could measure the shorter distances, or just mark the lengths with a pencil mark.

The back fence (3/4 x 1" x 18" in this example) is there for two reasons - first to allow you to cut a 90 degree cut without having to move the base, and second to support the guide rail at the back side of the base.  It would use the dowels and wedge the same way to hold the moulding to the inside of this fence and let you cut a 90 degree cutoff.

The guide rail is shown below this only for clarity purposes. In fact this sub-base would be clamped to the MFT table and the guide rail would simply drop down over it like any other cut.

You do not have to cut all the way through this piece - so see if you could set the curf to cut 1/4" into the base so it maintains rigidity.

It might be worth a try to see how accurately it will replicate 45 degree cuts for picture frames.   

Good luck trying.

neil
 
Thank you very much for your replies.
Neil, It is a great idea. I will make the jig and  come back with how succesful I was.

Does it make sense also to purchase the base to use the TS55 EBQ as a table saw ?
I was told here that some people purchase the Festool CMS-TS 55 adaptor and build the table to hold it.

Thank again,

Yves

 
I have a CMS-TS 55. It is very well suited to cut frames. Be sure you keep the bottom of the frame-profile flat on the table. Sometimes the sides of the profile are not perpendicular to the bottom. You may easily tilt the profile while clamping it to the fence. Then your miter will be screwed-up. And I know that from experience.  ;)
The CMS-system is an extremely good alternative for a tablesaw/routertable/jointer/bandsaw/spindlesander (within certain limits of course).
 
Hello,

Thank you for your input.
Neil, I have built the jig and used it with good results.
I tried to post some photos but did not succeed. I need to dig further on how to do this.
I posted a reply and attached the photos, but for some reasons (?) the post never appeared.

Finally I managed to use the MFT with 100 % success.
What I found was that the rail was not perfectly at 45 degrees, until I got last week a Speed Square and a Samson combination square brought back from the USA by a friend of mine.

The method I used was quite simple in fact and Neil jig opened my eyes on making a proper use of the rail.

As soon as I get the right way to post the photos I'll make a description of how I did it.

Yves
 
Gentlemen

If you are cutting 45's, or making a frame with four sides, the best way to check your settings would be to set a stop and cut four pieces off of the stop.

Yes it is difficult with profiled stock, you have to flip the pieces-use square stock for the test. Cut your four pieces off the stop, then assemble them, are your

corners open? Then you need to decrease the angle-the inside open? Increase the angle or vice-a-versa determined by whether you are registering off the

inside or outside of said work piece.

My point being if you are cutting a simple 45 just cut and re cut the four pieces  until all four joints meet up perfectly, start with longer pieces and move the

stop in each time. With this method you don't even need a square.

The trick here is to cut all of one side first, which means you have to rough out your parts first. Then do the same set up(cutting four pieces) with the next

setting on your mft or miter saw, or gauge etc.

Works like a charm- I do lots of long production runs and this is my method for long term accuracy, you gotta check every so many pieces though.

T-bone
 
FOG and PP being my main research resource - this was the best thread I found today regarding making a picture frame with a guide rail and track saw.

Having read it I was filled with trepidation at even attempting the task.

Well I needn't have worried. I just used a couple of PP's Bench dogs hitting 45 degrees was a breeze! The joins are perfect.

If you are concerned about having a go don't let the doom mongers put you off!

 
This is one from the archives!  Forgot I had posted that!

Glad the dogs worked for you -

Share some of your frames!

neil
 
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