Help...pretty sure I just destroyed my Parf Guide Bit!

gearhound

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This is the Mk. 1 system and I was having an issue with my drill chuck causing the top of the bit to tearout a bit and no longer fit through the parf boring guide hole.

In an effort to chuck it up a lot less, I just bought this Makita chuck adapter. It says it has a capacity of 1.5-10mm, so I chucked up the  bit and cut my 1st hole. It wasn't deep enough, so I went to reposition the bit in the chuck and the d$mn thing is stuck in there!!! No idea how I could remove it without just cutting it off? Seems any force applied will screwup the whole guide. Is there a place to just order the Mk. 2 boring bit? 

Any things I could try to extract this?
 

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I'm trying to understand what the problem is:

The shaft of the drill bit is 10.06mm in diameter and you chucked it in a 3/8"/10mm chuck and now it doesn't open anymore?

The chuck opens but the drill bit is still stuck/ the jaws don't disengage?

Have you tried countering the chuck when trying to open it? (Put a key in that little hole.)

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
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six-point socket II said:
I'm trying to understand what the problem is:

The shaft of the drill bit is 10.06mm in diameter and you chucked it in a 3/8"/10mm chuck and now it doesn't open anymore?

The chuck opens but the drill bit is still stuck/ the jaws don't disengage?

Have you tried countering the chuck when trying to open it? (Put a key in that little hole.)

Kind regards,
Oliver

The jaws won't disengage. I've never used a chuck like this before, the little hole isn't a hex key it appears to just be a circle....is there another key I should try? I remember when I was a kid my Dad had a corded drill that used a similar chuck, but that was before my time so I'm clueless.
 
Alex said:

Already hit it with WD40...I'll destroy the shaft of the bit trying to extract it with pliers, it needs to stay precise for boring and smooth removal through the guides.
 
Is it possible that the “little hole” is to insert a round bar like aPhillips screw driver and then twist the upper ring?
 
Makita says this chuck is to be opened and closed by using the impact driver's (which it is designed for) forward and reverse settings and grabbing the chuck's sleeve. The way an impact driver works, this is pretty safe - do not try this with a regular drill/driver! An be careful not to make contact with the drill bit.

But if the shaft diameter of that drill bit is 10.06mm and it's a 10.00 mm chuck, this will prove interesting.

If you have a key for a standard jacobs chuck, chance is good the round part will fit in that little hole and allow you to counter the chuck while opening it. But any rod that fits the hole will do in the end, just be careful to not hurt yourself if it slips out ...

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
gearhound said:
Alex said:

Already hit it with WD40...I'll destroy the shaft of the bit trying to extract it with pliers, it needs to stay precise for boring and smooth removal through the guides.

A little scratching is not destroying. And it probably is already scratched from inserting it in the chuck. 
 
six-point socket II said:
Makita says this chuck is to be opened and closed by using the impact driver's (which it is designed for) forward and reverse settings and grabbing the chuck's sleeve. The way an impact driver works, this is pretty safe - do not try this with a regular drill/driver! An be careful not to make contact with the drill bit.

But if the shaft diameter of that drill bit is 10.06mm and it's a 10.00 mm chuck, this will prove interesting.

If you have a key for a standard jacobs chuck, chance is good the round part will fit in that little hole and allow you to counter the chuck while opening it. But any rod that fits the hole will do in the end, just be careful to not hurt yourself if it slips out ...

Kind regards,
Oliver

Thanks, Oliver! I just used my impact driver and it came right out! Still wondering why my drill wasn't able to open the jaws..not enough force?

I'm also wondering what the best way will be to cut all these holes as I'm not going to be using the Makita chuck anymore and my Ridgid drill's chuck keeps ripping into the shaft of the bit? Really would like to get my hands on a Mk. 2 boring bit!
 
The way an impact driver works, it's easier to hold the sleeve and the impacts are more likely to loosen it than a regular drill that you can't counter by hand, and just pulls through.

If the other chuck doesn't get a good grip on the shaft of the drill bit, basically what you describe as tear out, means that the jaws slip.

Reasons:

1) Jaws are dirty/oily/packed with debris. Solution: Clean jaws.
2) Shaft of the drill bit is oily. Solution: Clean shaft of drill bit with a solvent that removes oil.
3) The drill bit bites into the material. Solution: Let drill bit get to speed before carefully plunging into the material and use less force while plunging into the material. Lift the drill bit from time to time while drilling each hole to allow the shavings/debris come out.
4) Chuck is worn out/defective or not capable to chuck a 10mm shaft. Solution: Use different drill/driver or replace chuck.

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
Mike Goetzke said:
gearhound said:
Mike Goetzke said:
Does your bit have a straight shaft?

Yes

Oh boy, new ones are 1/4" quick disconnect.

I know! It's a nightmare having to keep chucking and unchucking the boring bit...hence that attempt at using the Makita chuck adapter. My festool CXS struggles to cut the holes, but using the quick disconnect chuck is nice.

I'm curious if there are any other adapters I could use to stop the constant re-chucking, but that won't destroy the bit in the process?
 
gearhound said:
I'm curious if there are any other adapters I could use to stop the constant re-chucking, but that won't destroy the bit in the process?
Just file/grind 3 flat spots on the bit shank for the chuck to grab. Doesn't have to be deep, just identical and carefully placed.
 
I really do not understand what has gone wrong here - it seems it is an issue with the chuck which I have never used or seen before.

Try tapping it on the blunt end !

Peter
 
gearhound said:
...
I'm also wondering what the best way will be to cut all these holes as I'm not going to be using the Makita chuck anymore and my Ridgid drill's chuck keeps ripping into the shaft of the bit? Really would like to get my hands on a Mk. 2 boring bit!

What size is the chuck on the Rigid drill?
 
Peter Parfitt said:
I really do not understand what has gone wrong here - it seems it is an issue with the chuck which I have never used or seen before.

Try tapping it on the blunt end !

Peter

Hi Peter,
I luckily got the bit freed from the chuck with an impact driver. I'm however still trying to come up with a solution for an efficient way to bore out the holes without the 1/4" hex universal fitting on my bit? I'm getting burrs on the shank constantly having to re-chuck for each and every hole I drill. I can see very small scratches inside the boring guide hole from removing a burred bit...I'm hoping it's way too minor to affect the accuracy? It seems the new-er boring bits with the hex fitting are sold out everywhere and I'd like to get this top finished this soon.

Thanks for any help/suggestions.

Cheers,
Matt
 
RustE said:
gearhound said:
...
I'm also wondering what the best way will be to cut all these holes as I'm not going to be using the Makita chuck anymore and my Ridgid drill's chuck keeps ripping into the shaft of the bit? Really would like to get my hands on a Mk. 2 boring bit!

What size is the chuck on the Rigid drill?

Half Inch
 
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